Kirden Posted January 25, 2013 Report Posted January 25, 2013 Hey guys, I have some pretty well fubared wiring under the dash in my 74 620. I have access to a mint condition cab harness for a 75 620. I know the engines are different (L18 vs L20) as well as many other parts. Will under dash harness work on my truck or would I be better off just rewiring the parts of my harness that have been modified (fubared)? Side note to self and other looking at older vehicles, try not to get one off years with unique parts to that body style unless you like digging through all kinds of information to figure out what works... Quote
ggzilla Posted January 25, 2013 Report Posted January 25, 2013 It doesn't matter about being one-year engine. The 1975 harness is different from the 1976 and they used the same engine. In the same year, auto and manual dash harnesses are different. Generally speaking starting in the 1970s the wiring changed a lot. I would repair what is damaged. Quote
Kirden Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Posted January 25, 2013 Alright, didn't know about all those changes. Thanks a bunch man, Also gotta thank bilzbobaggins for telling me we should check to see if it will work before he sold it to me, great guy :) Quote
Dawa Posted January 25, 2013 Report Posted January 25, 2013 iiiiiiiiiiiiii say fuck both of those old harnesses and re-do the whole damn thing with brand new wires 1 Quote
Kirden Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Posted January 25, 2013 iiiiiiiiiiiiii say fuck both of those old harnesses and re-do the whole damn thing with brand new wires Haha, I would love to and hope to do that in the future, but for now I have one weekend and limited funds to clean up this nest of bad wiring from the PO. I also have to install my new relays for lows and starter (don't have one for highs, picking it up tomorrow). I saw some really bad ass wire one a thread before but I can't remember where. It was all in flex tubing and had this massive firewall connector/disconnect. That is what I really would like to do once I get the funds. Quote
DanielC Posted January 25, 2013 Report Posted January 25, 2013 I am going to strongly suggest you try to take the wiring back to as close to stock as you can. Datsun actually did a pretty good job of designing the wiring on these trucks. If you have stock wiring, and you have a problem we can help you. If you have some non stock wiring, none of us will know how to help, other than a few basic items. 1 Quote
Kirden Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Posted January 25, 2013 I plan to wire it back to stock schematic, I just want to use that flex tube wrapped wire to do it. The PO shredded the stock wire trying to splice in the stereo and removing a ton of stuff from the truck. Once I get some good wire I will have to sit down with the book and make a day/weekend out of redoing everything. The reason I liked the flex wrapped wire is it seems really simple, and I loved having a quick disconnect coupler in my old integra for pulling the engine, makes pulling the engine easy cause you just remove the gorunds, disconnect the coupler and pull the engine. The end goal is try to get all the circuits back to stock wiring with only the two headlight relays and the starter relay added in for now, then upgrade the alt, then worry about radio, power locks, DZ-start, and alarm. If I get the flex wire, cool deal, if not, atleast all the wire will be new and connections will be clean. Quote
Danz Posted July 4 Report Posted July 4 I have a pin that corroded in the 6 pin connector in the engine compartment of a 1979 Datsun 620 king cab. Does anyone know if the corroded one can be extracted and replaced? Quote
datzenmike Posted July 4 Report Posted July 4 Just polish with some sand paper. Just unplugging and plugging it back in is usually enough to make contact. The pin has a barb the lets it get pushed in to the plastic connector but won't let it be pulled back out. I have had good results with a metal hair pin, hardest part was finding one. Pull or burn the plastic end off and you can slide it down beside the pin and this will push the barb in enough to pull the pin out by the wire. Just clean with emery cloth or SOS pad. These might work... https://racespeconline.com/collections/connector-kits/products/gtr-yazaki-connector-kit-6-pin Your pin is unlikely to be used these days. Quote
Danz Posted July 5 Report Posted July 5 It is not evident in the photo but the pin is barely intact. It wobbles and is ready to fall off. In the aerospace world we have extraction tools to remove pins from the backshells of connectors but the back shells and locking mechanisms are all made of metal. I am not sure automotive uses are the same since they do not have to be maintained in the same manner. Quote
datzenmike Posted July 5 Report Posted July 5 I found the hair pin the thinnest to slide down beside the pin and depress the barb. Quote
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 6 Report Posted July 6 I used tweezers to pull the pins out before. unless the pins are superglued in there they can come out. sometimes the removal is from the front like a old Deutschpin. extraction tools Quote
Danz Posted July 8 Report Posted July 8 All, thanks for all of your suggestions. It turns out it was so corroded all I had to do was tug on the wire to get it out. I have ordered a new pin on Amazon and hope it is the right size. 1 Quote
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