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Prophet1012's 1982 B310 project


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  • 4 weeks later...

only some more rust that needs to be sorted out xD i will try to take some pictures of the b310 with the new grille, today or tomorrow :D 

I am looking for methods to lower the rear of the b310 so far only cutting the springs seem to be the only option. As i don't know if there are other stiffer compatible rear springs somewhere and can't find someone who sell lowering spring for it :confused:  

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so far only cutting the springs seem to be the only option. As i don't know if there are other stiffer compatible rear springs somewhere and can't find someone who sell lowering spring for it :confused:  

 

There are lowering springs from King Springs in Australia, and from Pit Road in Japan. Neither easy to get in Malta, though. 

 

If you like the ride, and are okay with slightly stiffer, just cut them. If you do it quick and don't heat them up there are really no ill effects. 

 

If you want them a lot stiffer, you'll need to measure them and see what other springs are compatible. The standard aftermarket spring diameters are 2.5", 3.5" and 5". I'd bet the 5" is close? If it's close enough to one of those sizes, the sky is the limit. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

the only draw back is they are 13".  I think with a small profile tire such as 50 the wheel cap will be huge. 

 

That's because the wheel gap will be huge.   B)

 

You are better off with a 185/60-13 if you want to go really low, and a 205/60-13 (or 185/70-13) if you want to go sort of low. 

 

To lose the unsightly gap you'd have from running a 50-series tire it would have to be crazy low... 

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won't the make he car softer? haha i am no suspension expert xD

 

 

 

Cutting a long metal rod shorter has never in history made it softer.   B)

 

The trick is in how you cut it. If you get it too hot, it looses it's temper and get's softer over time (not immediately). If you make the cuts quickly, and with a tool that doesn't heat it very much, it will actually get stiffer.   :thumbup:

 

We use something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-14-inch-heavy-duty-cut-off-saw-91938.html

 

 

 

Do you know the stock spring rating on a b310?

 

Hell of soft.   :rofl:

 

Probably 80--90 pounds. 

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If you cut it with a hacksaw, it won't change the spring rate.

 

The stock rate is 90.7 or 92.4 depending on year and equipment. Because the B310 is so light, the springs are light. For a stiff performance ride, go with 175. For dedicated [tarmac] rally some use 250. Of course the rear springs must be modified too so the balance doesn't oversteer.

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Hell of soft.   :rofl:

 

Probably 80--90 pounds. 

 

Thanks because i am going a front coilover kit from T3 and lowering springs from king springs for the rear (or just cut the rear springs) and i need to give them spring ratings (since t3 offfer different spring rates). what rate do you recommend? keep in mind i wish my b310 to be good at corners (currently it is like a bus lol) but not too much stiff that it damaged the body or something (if it is possible) 

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If you cut it with a hacksaw, it won't change the spring rate.

 

The stock rate is 90.7 or 92.4 depending on year and equipment. Because the B310 is so light, the springs are light. For a stiff performance ride, go with 175. For dedicated rally some use 250. Of course the rear springs must be modified too so the balance doesn't oversteer.

 this may create a problem then, as king springs told me that their springs are 25% stiffer than standard , meaning their springs for the b310 are 112.5. if i am correct i have to ask T3 for coils with roughly 112.5 pound/inch right?

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Stiffer springs = rough ride. However if the tarmac is extremely smooth they will allow the car to corner faster. For bumpy roads a softer spring is often faster but requires excellent shocks. A combination of medium springs and stiff anti-sway bars can best for performance street usage.

 

 

When the car is lowered it results in less suspension travel. Therefore many fit stiff springs to lessen the occurrence of bottoming out. A better solution to bottoming out is to use better-suited bump stops. Do not use poly bushings which are overly harsh.

 

Generally the fronts can be stiffened more than the rears before oversteer sets in. I would think 112 front and stock rear would be OK. Many owners use 150 or 175 on the street but I feel it is overly harsh. Some don't mind the rough ride.

 

After lowering be sure to get the wheels aligned as lowering will change it. A small amount of negative camber will make for faster cornering on smooth tarmac.

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Just lowering it will remove the bus-like cornering. Even with stock spring rates.

 

Personally, for a street car what I do is use low-profile tires (which lower the car without reducing suspension travel) and fit stiffer anti-sway bar. It results in go-cart like cornering yet still has a relatively smooth ride.

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