b210in Posted June 25, 2008 Report Share Posted June 25, 2008 i just got done rebuilding the a13 to stock specs in my b210. before i pulled the engine it was running perferctly and would rev to 6000 easy. i rebuilt the engine becuause it would foul the number one plug and it leaked oil and water out the rear main seal and freeze plug. the car idles perfectly. when i try to rev it past 2000 rpms it begins to sputter and spit out black smoke. it has a hard time revving past 4000 rpms. i replaced the gas in the tank with new gas i set the timing at 0, 5, and 10 degrees and it does the same thing. i disconnected the egr valve. no change. reconnected it no change. i set the points to the proper point gap, no change. i closed the points a little more, no change, i opened them up a little no change. i put the points back to stock. i check to see if all the cylinders are firing, they are. i check for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. i disconnected the anti diesling valve at higher rpms and it did nothing. have i missed anything? i'm thinking that i did not install the distributor in the right location. could bad timing be causing this? i 'm really frustrated and out of ideas. any info you can help me out with would be cool. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 25, 2008 Report Share Posted June 25, 2008 Sounds like flooding or choke stuck on. Take air filter off when motor warm, the choke butterfly should be in the vertical, off position. If it is, start and carefuly look down the barrel. Is there gas dribbling in? Look at the sight glass on the carb front, is the fuel level in the middle position or over full. If overfull the inlet needle valve my be blocked from closing. Quote Link to comment
b210in Posted June 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2008 when the engine is warm the butterfly is completely vertical. and partially closed when cold. the fuel level is a little lower than half on the sight glass. i have been doing more research a datsun 1200.com. if the rotor in the distributor is pointing to the front of the car this is the 12 o clock position. i set the number one cylinder at 11 oclock. and the timing mark set at zero. this was accoding to the chilton manual for an 78 b210. or pointing slightly towards the drivers side. the datsun 1200 tech section, says that the rotor needs to be pointing to the 2 oclock position and the mark on the pulley should be a 5 degrees instead of zero. could this be causing my problem? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted June 25, 2008 Report Share Posted June 25, 2008 A '78 A14 has an electronic distributor, so the rotor position may be completely different (it's different on about every other Datsun). You need to use the right setting for a points distributor because that's what you're running. The 1200 settings MIGHT be right for your 1300, as the A12 and A13 are close but never assume. You probably have the timing so far advanced (static) that it's at full advance at idle. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 26, 2008 Report Share Posted June 26, 2008 Sounds like a bad carburetor. Quote Link to comment
b210in Posted June 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2008 well, i set to the dristributor to where the specs provided by datsun1200.com. NO CHANGE! man i'm frustrated. the weird thing about the carb is that it was running perfectly before the rebuild of the engine. i covered the top of the carb and let it sit outside while rebuilding the engine in my dad's garage. at this point i dont know what else to do. i thinking maybe the fuel in the carb turned bad in the month it sat outside and possibly clogged something. Quote Link to comment
fastdadd Posted June 26, 2008 Report Share Posted June 26, 2008 my toyota did the same thing turned out the timing belt had sliped Quote Link to comment
b210in Posted June 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2008 it was the carburetor. i paid my dad (retired mechanic) 40 bucks and had him check it. it took him five minutes to tell me the timing was fine and the carb was bad. i removed it and tore it apart. it turns out that a little valve that kind of looks like a spring loaded copper needle was loose at the base of the bowl. (totally my fault since i was the one who did the rebuild). it was so loose that it was dumping a ton of fuel. i tightned it put it back to together and presto. no more carb problem. I am so extatic! i'll be rolling low and slow pretty soon in my cool datto. thanks for all the input. Your dad's a smart man. For charging you $40 I mean. This illustrates two lessons. (wish I had done this with my kids) one: nothing is free in this world, good advice is worth the money. two: you can't always run to dad to have him fix everything that you can learn to do yourself. I see you re-built the carb, good for you. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 28, 2008 Report Share Posted June 28, 2008 Glad to hear. That's the power valve. Mine isn't loose, but I think it isn't working as I'm only getting 22 mpg. Pretty common problem. I should be getting 38 mpg in my B110 on the highway. Quote Link to comment
fastdadd Posted June 28, 2008 Report Share Posted June 28, 2008 glad to hear it was something fairly simple Quote Link to comment
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