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VG30ET IN A 72 WAGON RADIATOR OPTIONS??


Big_E-Dog

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Hate to say it but this sort of thing should have been researched before starting this project. Not much about this swap is going to be off the shelf parts. Drive shaft, speedometer drive, transmission and engine mounts, exhaust plumbing, cooling, throttle cable, oil pan/X-member/sway bar .... will all need one-off custom parts made. A proper plan should include time, a place to do the work, tools, knowledge, and funds enough for completion. There were no 510 rads big enough for a turbo VG motor.

 

Best to post lots of pictures of what you have to work with and maybe someone can suggest a fix. Surely someone has done a 510 VG swap. When all is said and done a rad that will work will be as much bother to find or make work as a custom one.  

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not a biggie really got most stuff sorrted. i aint worried about swappin this...hell if i can make an 87 baxima rwd and driveable anthing is possible especally a vget motor in a 510 is cake lol!

 

was just wondering what other radiators ppl were using in their vg swaps.

 

 

guess i beter start a build thread here lol!

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The VR6 is a good radiator and I run with it in South Texas with A/C and turbo and it never overheats.  I'm not sure what you mean about the size since you need to mod the core support anyway to fit the radiator.  I cut out the stock hole to get the maximum amount of air to the radiator.

 

With my install, Team Thump Motor Mounts, the VG30 sits way back leaving lots of room between the core support and the front of the motor.  By moving the radiator closer to the motor you would have room to run the I/C lines around the sides of the radiator between the core support and the radiator.  This was my original idea for the intercooler, but I ended up with a rear mount turbo and an air to water intercooler making the piping much easier.   If you plan on using the VG30ET manifolds from the 300ZX, then this idea will not work since you will need to move the motor forward in the engine bay or mod the firewall, or both.

 

rad.jpg

 

As you can see I have a big ass fan and still have room plenty of room.  Just an idea since there is a lot of room to work with.  Please ignore the overflow tank, it was a temporary solution and has been replaced.

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  • 2 weeks later...

well im not using the stock manifolds going custom with villager manifolds half of the work being done for me LOL!

 

put it is pushed up enough due to me using the 300zx intake theres about an 8th inch between the back of the intake manifold and the firewall that i flattened out in that certain area.

 

might run a small intercooler and keep it in the engine bay to cool a lilbit and keep lag down might even go with a small side mount looks like front mounts arent in the equasion.

 

SAM_1243_zps2aede902.jpg

 

SAM_1242_zps86ec5bb2.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

hey guys what about a trunk mounted radiator? obviously it kinda sucks for a daily. but i love my bay with the space freed up. i've got a ka-t 4 door 72. i just mounted mine there to make room for a  big fmic, my other turbo setup was an air to water inter cooler right under the turbo, then making a U underneith a high spot between the pan and crossmember and coming up the other side. this set up fit under my hoot without any pipes in front of the motor. i got rid of it because i don't like wires and reservoirs and heat exchangers crowding the space. it worked for the short time i used it. any way i still have to wire the car because i'm switching to haltech so i havent tested the new setup yet. but in my inexperienced  mind those were the 2 best options i saw. either a trunk mount rad or pipes under the motor. i was able to run 2 1/4" pipe under the motor and it sat above the lowest point on the car. i crashed that set up at 60 mph off a road course and went thru a field without causing the intercooler pipes to fall off.

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oh by the way my air to water inter cooler is 11" by 4" by 3 1/2" with 2 1/2" inlet and outlet. basically a little rectangular box. water runs thru it so it cools well. it was on my friends sr powered 240 making 400whp. it was starting to get warm on that power level and was upgraded, that's how i got it. anyway just an option that might help keep things compact while still being able to support lots of boost. you do need to run coolant lines from the intercooler to a heat exchanger (transmission oil cooler or a heater core will work for this, basically a mini radiator) as well as a reservoir and electronic pump. total cost used was $125 for me. 

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