A laundry list of stuff...

[bmacster]

I guess this could be considered a second build thread; First thread is here http://community.ratsun.net/topic/44954-yet-another-85-4x4/

 

I need to get the truck 100% road worthy, as my daily driver will be going down for several weeks to pull the engine out of that and get it rebuilt (oh the joy of Protege's)

 

First of all, I am having a huge issue with fuel economy or rather, the lack of it. I am averaging 9 to 13mpg and have no idea why it is so low. Until recently, I haven't really driven it far, other than a trip to Olympia and a trip last week to Seabeck and back. What are some areas I should look at to improve mileage? Being empty at 150 miles, sucks.

 

Next weekend I will be working on the front brakes, replacing the calipers, rotors, new hoses, and using semi-metallic pads. I may tackle the rear brakes as well and get the drums turned (how I wish I could do a rear disc conversion)

 

Next, I need to find some one or some place to repair the rusted out floor panels on the driver and passenger side. Now that school is finished, I can resume working on the truck and finish what I can on the floor board, install insulation, carpeting, audio, etc, and not to mention, finishing the dash.

 

I am still experiencing the drive line vibration. The only thing I have yet to do is drop the rear drive shaft and see if that eliminates the vibration at speeds above 40mph. I am hoping to avoid a $300+ new/rebuilt rear shaft if it can be helped.

 

Once that is accomplished, I would like to tear apart the suspension and rebuild the front and rear components to tighten things back up.

 

I have the KYB GR-2's ($25 a pop from RockAuto)

 

So my main question for you is, what should be my shopping list? Again, I need this to be a reliable daily driver for 2 to 4 weeks, 65 miles a day. Any input would be fantastic.

 

Thanks!

[Tristin]

I would look at your fuel delivery system. There could be some gunk stuck somewhere fouling up the proper operation. Id run a can or so of Seafoam through it and see how that does. Be careful though... If you have a bit of a gunned up engine, it may be the only thing holding it together. Seafoam will clear that out and may cause blowby. If you think the block is decent then you should be fine. If also look at your plugs. Pull your plugs and look at the color and amount of fouling. Compare with your FSM for proper color and gap. You may just have shitty spark which isn't burning all your fuel... Thereby making you a little more heavy footed to maintain good driving speeds.

[bmacster]

I would look at your fuel delivery system. There could be some gunk stuck somewhere fouling up the proper operation. Id run a can or so of Seafoam through it and see how that does. Be careful though... If you have a bit of a gunned up engine, it may be the only thing holding it together. Seafoam will clear that out and may cause blowby. If you think the block is decent then you should be fine. If also look at your plugs. Pull your plugs and look at the color and amount of fouling. Compare with your FSM for proper color and gap. You may just have shitty spark which isn't burning all your fuel... Thereby making you a little more heavy footed to maintain good driving speeds.

 

Thanks for the advice! I'll probably only Seafoam the fuel system and not the engine itself. Judging from the lack of maintenance from the PO's, I don't want to chance something going wrong and be down two vehicles.

 

I keep forgetting that this truck has 8 plugs instead of just 4.

 

The girlie got me this as an early Christmas present =D

 

One question I asked in another thread but wasn't answered. Is the fuel pump supposed to run consistently with the key ON but the engine OFF? Or did the PO do some funky stuff to the wiring so it is on all of the time, which it is doing currently? Does the wiring diagram for the 85 match prior years? If so, then for sure, the PO did something to it...

[datzenmike]

When warm take the air filter off and take a look. Is the choke plate fully open? Yes or No?

Look at the sight glass in front of carb (assume you have stock carb?) is the fuel level correct?

 

I see you have the electric feedback carb. They were problematic, mostly the wires were too short at the plug and they would break inside the insulation and cause intermittent problems. The worst was a failure that would force an over rich 'LIMP HOME' default mode. You also have an oxygen sensor in the exhaust.

 

The cure, assuming there is a problem? Well you can access the fault codes on the ECU under the driver's seat and they will point to any stored problems.

 

 

Remove both coil wires and put a plug in each and lay on a grounded surface and cramk over.... do you have spark on both?????

 

Remove the plugs. Light tan, oily black, dry sooty black?????

 

Ignition timing. Is is set to 3 degrees BTDC????

 

Valve lash set to 0.012" hot, intake and exhaust?

 

Raise each tire and spin by hand. Brake dragging?

 

 

Most of these checks cost nothing. Rent/borrow a friends timing light. Your mileage should be at least 40% better than that so I expect you will find something.

[bmacster]

Awesome, thanks Mike!

[bmacster]

Another thing that has come up (Yay!)

 

I had to use 4wd yesterday to motor out of some snow (fun at Mt. Rainier) and when I was about to turn, the truck came to an abrupt stop. I straighten out the wheel so I was pointed straight and had no problems. Turned the wheel a couple of times, same thing, either direction.

 

I never used 4wd on the truck before, other than in a straight line, never to drive for more than a few miles, so I was surprised when this happened.

 

When I got home, I wanted to see if this was a fluke or something else going on. Locked the diffs, tried to back into a spot at home, no go. It would drive fine forward, reverse, in a straight line, would not do anything if I turned, either direction, forward or backwards.

 

Unlocked the diffs, was able to get into the spot just fine. Not sure if 4wd works without the diffs locked but nevertheless, mission mostly accomplished.

 

So, now what?

[izzo]

the fronts will want to lock up when you are in 4x4 and are turning. the half shafts are kind of binding. Don't turn full lock when in 4x4... Check your half shafts and make sure they are good and operational, too. Rubber boots still look good?

[bmacster]

the fronts will want to lock up when you are in 4x4 and are turning. the half shafts are kind of binding. Don't turn full lock when in 4x4... Check your half shafts and make sure they are good and operational, too. Rubber boots still look good?

 

Yeah the rubber looks great, half shafts were replaced from the PO, which is why I was surprised. If course, the way the PO's took care of this thing... well, yeah. I wasn't near full lock though, which is what confused me. I heard about the full lock issue before.

 

It did sit for some time (3-5 years) before I got my hands on it though...

[izzo]

Yeah, I wasn't at full lock with mine either. seems right around half way is where it starts binding. All the ones Ive had, had same thing going on. didnt matter if it was nissan, chevy, ford etc. Near half maybe just passed.. i don't recall its been a minute.... Seemed like it was fine in 4x4 turning in the mud.

 

Maybe put the truck on jack stands, throw it in 4x4 and check out what its doing...

[bmacster]

Yeah, I wasn't at full lock with mine either. seems right around half way is where it starts binding. All the ones Ive had, had same thing going on. didnt matter if it was nissan, chevy, ford etc. Near half maybe just passed.. i don't recall its been a minute.... Seemed like it was fine in 4x4 turning in the mud.

 

Maybe put the truck on jack stands, throw it in 4x4 and check out what its doing...

 

Huh, how strange. Thanks I'll do that next weekend with everything else.

[bmacster]

Yay... so did a compression test on the truck, 

 

#1 175

#2 50

#3 45

#4 180

 

WOOHOO! Head gasket time (insert Picard facepalm)

[bmacster]

So since I have to do this job now, should I pick up new bolts as well? Anything else I should address while I am knee deep in this fun, fun project?

[Smyrna720]

Don't forget to get a piece of garden hose to wedge down into the timing chain so the tensioner doesn't fall out. If you need ideas, check this thread out:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/48285-carbretarder-or-ignition-problems/page-2

[bmacster]

I uploaded a couple of videos to my channel. I figure it would be easier to show/explain the issue than just explain it. Ah technology.

 

Fuel Pump Relay question

 

http://www.youtube.com/embed/3Nv4kuTTfBI

 

Carb question, start up. 

http://www.youtube.com/embed/kp7UPow7aVU

[datzenmike]

So since I have to do this job now, should I pick up new bolts as well? Anything else I should address while I am knee deep in this fun, fun project?

 

Nissan head bolts are totally reusable if undamaged and clean.

[bmacster]

Nissan head bolts are totally reusable if undamaged and clean.

Awesome, thanks!

 

So, after I took off the air cleaner, I did a compression test again, mostly to make sure I did something wrong. Unless I did something wrong the first time, I got 165 all across this time around. Confirmed with 2 different gauges.

 

Regardless though, I am probably going to look at a KA swap for next year. I won't be towing anything or going into the mountains anytime soon with the truck, so all is well. I'll focus on getting the driveability solid and go from there.

 

Once I get this truck 100% figured out, I'll be able to do a lot more and hopefully be more of a help than just asking a crap load of questions =D

[bmacster]

When warm take the air filter off and take a look. Is the choke plate fully open? Yes or No?

Look at the sight glass in front of carb (assume you have stock carb?) is the fuel level correct?

 

I see you have the electric feedback carb. They were problematic, mostly the wires were too short at the plug and they would break inside the insulation and cause intermittent problems. The worst was a failure that would force an over rich 'LIMP HOME' default mode. You also have an oxygen sensor in the exhaust.

 

The cure, assuming there is a problem? Well you can access the fault codes on the ECU under the driver's seat and they will point to any stored problems.

 

 

Remove both coil wires and put a plug in each and lay on a grounded surface and cramk over.... do you have spark on both?????

 

Remove the plugs. Light tan, oily black, dry sooty black?????

 

Ignition timing. Is is set to 3 degrees BTDC????

 

Valve lash set to 0.012" hot, intake and exhaust?

 

Raise each tire and spin by hand. Brake dragging?

 

 

Most of these checks cost nothing. Rent/borrow a friends timing light. Your mileage should be at least 40% better than that so I expect you will find something.

 

Plugs are dry, sooty and black. I need to buy a valve clearance measurement tool. I need to rent a timing light. I didn't see anywhere to check the fuel level at though? 

 

I'll check the tires on Tuesday.

[bmacster]

One last thing. Isn't there supposed to be a fuel filter here? There isn't one between the tank and the carb. 

 

[datzenmike]

That round thing on the front of the carb has a glass window with a dot on it. Fuel level should be at or near the dot.

 

The fuel filter is located on the frame ahead of the passenger side rear wheel and just behind the electric fuel pump. It is connected between the fuel tank and the pump. The electric fuel pump also has a filter in the twist off bottom and a magnet. Filtered fuel is pumped directly to the carb and any excess returned to the tank through a slightly larger diameter return line.

[Smyrna720]

There also should be a small screen filter in the banjo fitting on the carb that feeds fuel. I had a hell of a time getting mine to seal without one in there.

[bmacster]

That round thing on the front of the carb has a glass window with a dot on it. Fuel level should be at or near the dot.

 

The fuel filter is located on the frame ahead of the passenger side rear wheel and just behind the electric fuel pump. It is connected between the fuel tank and the pump. The electric fuel pump also has a filter in the twist off bottom and a magnet. Filtered fuel is pumped directly to the carb and any excess returned to the tank through a slightly larger diameter return line.

 

Started the truck and cleaned that sight glass, level was at the dot. I did look for the fuel filter from front to rear. No trace of one. The fuel pump has been replaced at some point and it is wired directly into the fuse box, not into the fuel pump relay. 

 

There also should be a small screen filter in the banjo fitting on the carb that feeds fuel. I had a hell of a time getting mine to seal without one in there.

 

So I will need to get a fuel filter and install one. Nothing there at all. 

[datzenmike]

Place the filter before the pump to keep trash out of it. The pump should be near the stock location or as low as you can get it.

[bmacster]

Place the filter before the pump to keep trash out of it. The pump should be near the stock location or as low as you can get it.

 

Located the filter. It was on the drivers side of the fuel tank? smh... Cut the line and moved it to the factory location. There was a ton of extra hose. No idea why it was routed in the manner that it was. I'll upload some pictures when I get to work in a little bit. 

 

I adjusted the idle, didn't get a chance to adjust the throttle though. I figure once I get both of those down and idling at 800rpm, it'll be a bit better. I reconnected the air cleaner as well. I'll upload a video starting it tomorrow and see if the stumbling issue occurs at start up. 

[bmacster]

Quick update; Got the timing done. The PO said when the truck was "gone through" it was timed and such... Yeah, not so much. 

 

Timing was at 0 degree, reset it to 5 degrees. Truck ran MUCH better, not so flat. Had to adjust the idle and throttle adjustment slightly to get it to idle properly though. I'll need to do a proper tune up and definitely replace the vac hoses. Changed out the fuel filter... it was black and grimmy that looked almost original.

 

Looking forward to doing the vac hoses this weekend. Gah.. carbs. 

[bmacster]

 

Best $25 bucks I have spent =D It looks basically brand spanking new.