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bmacster

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I have the '84 and it's good for most Z24 years. Got it for asking from a wrecking yard. Many cars are scrapped with the manuals in them. The owner put them all in three tall filing cabinets but most are Haynes and Chilton's :poop:  but this is a Nissan FSM like yours. .

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A quick update. Got all of the vac hoses replaced, found a rebuilt rear drive line for the truck for a decent price and just waiting for that to come in and take it for a test drive.

 

When I did the vac lines, what a mess that was. Lots of holes in the original lines... I was surprised it was even running at all... Once I got everything readjusted, the idle, choke, etc all works much better, warms up better (though still not as it should) and drives a hell of a lot better. 

 

I have something still dragging though. Can't determine what it is. When I have the truck off the ground and spin the wheels, nothing acts like it is binding or comes to a quick stop, yet if I am on a slight incline, the thing doesn't roll, at all or very, very, very minimally. Checking the temps of the brakes all around after driving the truck around, nothing is warm or even hot.

 

The brake light IS on, the PO says the sensor in the master cylinder is bad and will need to be replaced. I am starting to think there may be something else at play, but determining that may have to wait until it warms up. Most likely when I go through the front brakes, I will replace the master cylinder.

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Brake warning light can be 3 things.

 

1/ Failure in the front or back hydraulic system. A miss match of front and rear pressure will trip the pressure warning switch.

 

2/ The hand brake is on or the switch not adjusted.

 

3/ Some master cylinders have floats in the reservoire to warn of low brake fluid.

 

 

This is the brake system and not to be fooled with or to ignore warning lights. If the hand brake switch isn't adjusted correctly and you get used to the red light, how will it warn you when there is a hydraulic system failure?????

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Brake warning light can be 3 things.

 

1/ Failure in the front or back hydraulic system. A miss match of front and rear pressure will trip the pressure warning switch.

 

2/ The hand brake is on or the switch not adjusted.

 

3/ Some master cylinders have floats in the reservoire to warn of low brake fluid.

 

 

This is the brake system and not to be fooled with or to ignore warning lights. If the hand brake switch isn't adjusted correctly and you get used to the red light, how will it warn you when there is a hydraulic system failure?????

 

Huh. I am stuck then, of course, judging from what I have encountered on this truck, I should know better. He has done a lot of work on it. I may just resort to moving forward with rebuilding the entire wire harness, just so I KNOW there isn't anything fubar'ed with it...

 

The hand brake switch is working correctly per my volt meter. 

 

Master cylinder is just under the MAX line but it is pretty damn nasty looking (which is why I am going to replace it) 

 

When I do the front brakes, I'll replace all of the brake hoses on the truck, just to make sure there isn't anything collapsed. I figure if it happened on my 2001 Mazda, it probably has/will happen on something that is far older. 

---

 

I just went out and tested the sensor. Not sure if it means anything at all, but when I disconnected the master cylinder sensor, the light went out. Of course, the parking brake light does NOT come on when applied (or pressed manually)

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I just went out and tested the sensor. Not sure if it means anything at all, but when I disconnected the master cylinder sensor, the light went out. Of course, the parking brake light does NOT come on when applied (or pressed manually)

 

Look at your master cylinder reservoirs. Are there green and black wires coming out of the both of them???? These are floats that detect low fluid level. Unplug them. If the light goes out than the sensor(s) are faulty. Just run without them. If you don't have them you don't.

 

The red brake light should come on when the parking brake is pulled. (key on)

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One big hurdle done. Got the drive line installed from the '84 720. Worked like a charm! Now to hope the weather warms up enough to work on the front end and the brakes. I may have to break down and purchase a propane heater at this rate to get anything done.

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