mantas Posted December 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Oh you bet i did. This puppy runs like no other. My friend drove it to get my rims and fell in love with the car.....he used to own a mercedes (before they made them shit), now he has a lexus and a saab (aiplane) but he was almost contemplating on buying a datsun truck. I have to say, this thing is dialed in pretty much, i will check the timing again and the idle screw to make sure it runs like its supposed to but as of now its near perfect Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 Son of a bitch. Crapped out on my way to get tires and wont run properly. Runs ok and after it warms up the pos wants to die. Last night i drove this thing to hell and back to earth and it was wonderful wtf is wrong with it today? Shoots out the carb and out the tail pipe....overheated because radiator was crap but now its running like crap... Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 I think its time for ka swap....dont want to deal with the carbs for another day. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 Ignition condenser. Points suck. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 How bad did it overheat? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 I assume you still have the point STOCK coil and ballast resisitor. If you do ck the points, condensor , then ck the carb accell pump. Now if it overheated first then ran bad after that ,thats another story. Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I assume you still have the point STOCK coil and ballast resisitor. If you do ck the points, condensor , then ck the carb accell pump. Now if it overheated first then ran bad after that ,thats another story. Well not 100% sure it overheated because the radiator took a crap but it was cold out and ran rough. Right when i got home it fired up fine, ran fine then started to run like crap again after it warmed up a bit with new radiator. So i fucked with the screws again so might just need to tune the carb again but i have two sets of points on the dizzy what year is that out of? Every time i try to look up the points in the parts store it only comes with one set. Ill try and get a picture of that crap. I wish i would have did the KA swap as originally planned, looking for a KA but in the mean time i'll get this thing running so if someone buys it they have some confidence in the engine. Besides i'll need this damn thing to pick up the KA and to get the tire and rim situation sorted out. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 You dont know if it overheated but you fitted a new radiator anyways? Do the tuneup including new condensors , then watch it run good. Dont fiddle with the screws until the points are fixed Do the tuneup steps in order, it is important. Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 You dont know if it overheated but you fitted a new radiator anyways? Do the tuneup including new condensors , then watch it run good. Dont fiddle with the screws until the points are fixed Do the tuneup steps in order, it is important. The thing is, the points i got for the L18 from vato zone were totally different, so were the condensers. Mine has two sets of points the dizzy i see in the manual and at autozone says my engine comes with one set. But that one set is not even close to what i would need. The other thing is, i can't figure out how to set the gap. Mine currently have no gap between them, they are touching 24/7. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Well there is a screw holding the points on. Loosen the screw like 1/4-1/2 turn, slide the point away from the shaft, until you reached proper gap, and tighten screw. Second step, stop going to autozone, they never sold me the correct points or condensor, well they did, but it was always for my second set of points and condensor, not the first. That said, I still got the wrong condensor to work. But I thought points are points and they would swap anyways... Look at the picture I posted on the previous page, Just to the left and a little down, you can see a screw head, that is the adjusting screw. Notice the gap I have there, it may not be correct, but there is gap. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 i can't figure out how to set the gap. Mine currently have no gap between them, they are touching 24/7. If you cant figure this out then dont do a KA swap. dual point dizzy ask for a point se from a 71-72 510. those are dual point. Look at Rockauto.com for the photos to ck what they look like. youll turn the motor/dizzy till the lobe on the shaft is trying to lift it/ there will be a slotted screw. Youll loosen the phillips screw just enought then use the slotted one to adjust the gap to say .020. I personally would pull the 2nd points wire. and not use it. the main points is the one closest to the engine wiht the bigger capcitor on the out side. all Like I said dont be using a newr EI coil , super coil MSD coil ect with a point system. they burn up the points. Use stock coil with the ballast resisitor Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 i can't figure out how to set the gap. Mine currently have no gap between them, they are touching 24/7. If you cant figure this out then dont do a KA swap. dual point dizzy ask for a point se from a 71-72 510. those are dual point. Look at Rockauto.com for the photos to ck what they look like. youll turn the motor/dizzy till the lobe on the shaft is trying to lift it/ there will be a slotted screw. Youll loosen the phillips screw just enought then use the slotted one to adjust the gap to say .020. I personally would pull the 2nd points wire. and not use it. the main points is the one closest to the engine wiht the bigger capcitor on the out side. all Like I said dont be using a newr EI coil , super coil MSD coil ect with a point system. they burn up the points. Use stock coil with the ballast resisitor Let me ask you this, does this coil contain a resistor inside? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=931800&cc=1210105 Lists the resistence in Ohms up top so i'm assuming it shoud have a built in one? And i'm just going to get a whole new distributor its $65 at rock auto for single points for an L18. I would rather have peace of mind that rather then go on for another week trying to guess the potential problem. I need to make this car driveable so i can run some errunds.... Does this seem like the right one to you guys? http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=31603&p=rock Not saying a KA swap would be easier but I would rather live through the pain of figuring out the wiring for a KA swap than deal with a carb each time i want to leave the house. Seems like that is my story at the moment, do all of you guys have to constantly adjust this crap? This is starting to drive me nuts, i feel like i wasted my money and time with this L18. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 the rock auto coil is sutable for your set up and youll use the stock white ballast resisitor with it that on or nearby the coil already. if you think you got the right coil anyways it should be fine. POhotos whould help showing us your set up and maybe show us how you adjust the points. a L18 dizzy doesn not fit the l16 pedastal that I know of so buying it might more likely will NOT fit the dizzy mount for a L16. and timming plate Like I said you can make your dizzy a single point just by pulling the wire on the 2nd set of points. They work or they dont. Its a pretty simple system. Point iopen the coil fires. points close it charges up the coil. Look for the points opening and closing. take the center coil wire from the dizzy and place near the chassis and it should spark if cranking on start. Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Alright im an idiot, i did the point gap correctly this saturday, i will double check tonight but i just figure it out and i was going at it the right way based on what you guys instructed to do. I just start questioning myself all too often. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 soemtimes the points get loose if not tighten down correctly. This is why I hate them. also bushing wear cause points to open up when you dont want them too. Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 soemtimes the points get loose if not tighten down correctly. This is why I hate them. also bushing wear cause points to open up when you dont want them too. Would you recommend getting a new distributor all together just to make sure? I mean i can't imagine this thing is in perfect order after being in the engine for 20+ years. I guess i'll snap some photos tonight to make sure you guys can help me out to pick out the right one. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I haven't read the whole thread so I don't know if I'm being repetitious, but TOTAL timing should be checked too. If it's 12 at idle, then maybe 28 degrees or so TOTAL timing would be desired, give or take a couple degrees, depending on the fuel you use, the compression ratio, etc. I agree with everyone else, the 130 main primary jet seems small. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Would you recommend getting a new distributor all together just to make sure? dual point dizzys are common and are most times free if soembody near you can give you one to try out. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Keep the distributor you have now. The newer kind wear out. Just fit new points & condensor it is normal maintenance. It doesnt mean it is bad!!! You would have saved yourself a ton of trouble by NOT attempting to rebuild the weber. All it needed was to drain and blow the passages out with a spray can of carb cleaner. Water in the fuel does not require a rebuild Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Problem is i don't know any Ratsun members personally since im new and don't know anyone else that has a datsun near by.....lol. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 You could always take the distributor out and send it off to get rebuilt/recurved or checked out. Rebello Racing does this. While you're at it, have a SSS distributor cam installed and a Pertronix Ignitor too. Even if it's a dual point, it can be converted to single point. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Don't do that. SM, he doesnt even know how to change points or even get the right set. Do the basics first. It will run very good. Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted December 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Don't do that. SM, he doesnt even know how to change points or even get the right set. Do the basics first. It will run very good. Good point, about the points. Honestly i've done a boat load of work on cars, numerous engine swaps, brake upgrades etc, i get how that shit works but when it comes to electrical circuits i'm a bit rusty, and i've never messed with a carb before so i'm a complete n00b when it comes to it. For shits and giggles i threw up an add on CL for the whole motor and a few poeple are interested one guy wants to come grab it, i told him the issues its having too so if he's fine i don't care. And i found a complete KA24DE swap. The wiring might be a bit tough for me but the rest seems pretty straight forward, i've deat with custom mounts and driveshaft issues before. Keep your fingers crossed may be i'll save this truck from more carb troubles hahaha. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Don't do that. OK... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Mantas good to see you are cool with it. In some ways engine swaps are easier than fuel-ignition troubleshooting. But changing points is basic stuff. Dont be afraid of it. You could have it running great tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
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