bloodontheapex Posted November 16, 2012 Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 I would like to remove the L-jet from this L24e and add Su carbs from a 70-71 240z (not sure which year I have, it's one of those). I believe the compression ratio is 8.8:1, iirc the 240z L24 is 9.0:1. Planning to not re-jet the carbs. I have the entire carb set up...Carbs, manifold, linkage, etc. I have a few questions. Fuel delivery: Should I run the 240z mechanical pump or the EFI pumps with a FPR? Does the L24E have the drive for the mechanical pump, or would that have to be scavenged from a Z? I belive the correct pressure is 3 psi. I could run a FPR after the EFI pumps and simply runa return to the tank. If the mech pump is an easier/cheaper solution, then I'll just run that with a sinlge line to the tank (assuming the 240z doesn't run a return line). Wiring: What should I do with all the wiring for the EFI? Simply remove it? Can I run a 240z engine wiring harness? Ignition: What's a better ignition system or the best OEM replacement solution. My ignition system is not the best, just old and worn out. Would I be better off with something like an MSD box over the stock iginition? Camshaft: Is the 240z cam any different than the L24e cam? Is there a "best" OEM camshaft (for low end). For now, by top and bottom end will remain unchanged. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted November 16, 2012 Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 Mechanical or a carb type fuel pump. DO NOT run the EFI pump with carbs. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted November 16, 2012 Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 You shouldnt have to change needles. Using an efi pump choked down for carb can work but its not good for the pump and it will likely die much sooner. I believe youll need the eccentric from a carbed L series to run the mechanical. the 260z C stamped cam shaft is the best stock camshaft by most standards, including low end tq. Just discon all the efi stuff and tuck it back in case you change your mind int he future or w/e. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 16, 2012 Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 The stock 810 ignition is high energy, as good as aftermarket stuff, and more reliable. If it's worn out, get good used replacement which is better than aftermarket new stuff. MSD is not better unless you get a CD system, and that doesn't make more power unless running supercharged or turbocharged. Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted November 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 Hm. Looks like some posts have been erased? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 Yeah there were problems and it was re-set to earlier this morning. Ignition: If you have the matchbox type, you must have the E12-80 module. Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted November 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 Matchbox type? This is the only Datsun I've ever owned. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 dizzy has the ign module attached to the side of it. commonly called a matchbox. Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Yep, that's it. Good system? I've heard they're very easy to rebuild. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Excellent system, and no need to rebuild because nothing goes wrong with them. Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Okay. The car has always had a little hiccup in the idle. Might be de to the aging FI system. There is a bit of an issue with keeping the fuel pump going after the morning's first start. I have to rev it a bit or just start it again. I believe it's the relay for the pump, but, honestly, I've been planning the switch to carbs and haven't looked into it much. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Doesnt sound like a relay problem to me. More like a crudded up fuel system. When you go carb consider dropping the tank and blowing out the lines so you know all is well there. Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 I'm going to have the tank cleaned and coated when the carbs go in. I know the tank is cruddy. I'm probably going to have to drop the tank anyway so I can run new fuel line and reroute some things. Quote Link to comment
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