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clutch break in


doomdatsun

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.... when I got my hands on the car and started messing around with it, once I decided to take the trans down I noticed that the trans mount is dead ( no rubber at all) and the trans was hanging from the engine ( top 2 bolts were unscrewd all the way and the trans is leaning on an angle form the engine. is there something I'm not noticing ?

 

Missed the connection here also. Thought this referred to the transmission not being fully installed. A NAPS Z series transmission on a L series will be turned about 22 degrees different and the motor mounts and transmission mounts will be severely twisted if forced into place.

 

 

DATZUNMIKE I used the 1006 sleeve as you told me and I have checked it as well with a vernier calibar as well because the clutch is 225 mm

 

As Doug stated the release collar that holds the release bearing MUST match the pressure plate. The 1006 sleeve?

 

 

 

225mmt-oBearingSleeves.jpg

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2) The throwout bearing and bearing collar MUST match the PRESSURE PLATE, not the transmission. The NAPS-Z 720s had a 240mm pressure plate and a larger release bearing. An L20A had a 225mm pressure plate. The 2 are incompatible unless you switch flywheels.

 

The Z20 and Z22 that come in the NAP-Z 720's use a 225mm flwheel the Z24 has the 240mm.

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The Z20 and Z22 that come in the NAP-Z 720's use a 225mm flwheel the Z24 has the 240mm.

 

Have to disagree. The Z20 Mileage option motors all came with 240mm flywheels and clutches. With a 2 liter, 9 to one compression motor and 3.364 axle ratio there's going to be a lot of clutch slipping.

 

The L20B, Z22 and both diesel motors used the 225mm clutch.

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hainz, I checked without removing the slave and it looks like I can move the fork very little, it make a sound when hitting the PP fingers so I guess its no tensioned, I asked someone to press the pedal to see the traveled distance, it seems it travels only for about 20mm, so I think its needing an adjustment.

 

Just went surfing the valeo clutch site and found troubleshooting section, under difficult shifting and metal noises the cause was excessive release bearing travel such that the fingers of the PP where in contact with the metal surface of the clutch thus grinding and binding, gonna try adjusting to lower the traveled distance

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guys location is arabic gulf, and the trans came standard with the car which is a 1983 datsun C31 laurel

 

pc180112.jpg

 

Then if nothing has been changed except the clutch/pressure plate then it should all work. Lack of travel is air in the system.

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tried to adjust the shaft behind the clutch pedal, it was nearly out, threaded it to the middle (not precisely) and bled the system, also adjust the pedal height to be with the brakes pedal in a level, took it for a quick spin, it was harsh at beginning but you could feel that the engine has more of say grip on the drive train (actually more grip on clutch disk), shifts not perfectly at high rpm 5K or 6K but ok, still hearing sound but not always now, gonna check adjusting the pedal more as there is about 1/2" free play before disengaging the clutch.

 

I don't want to open another thread so I'll ask here, while lifting your foot off the pedal (no gas) and you were at high RPM, should the RPM fall gradually and slowly or immediately?

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G thanks for explaining it to me lol

 

How fast the rpms drop depends on the gear ratio vs the speed your going. Down shifting or coming up to high rpms and letting off the gas will slow them down faster while up shifting or lugging up to speed and letting off will be slower.

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update

been trying to find a way to adjust the slave, no it can't be adjusted like older fork models, searched for 280zx NA push rod length which turned out to be 68.2 mm, took the one I have and measured it, it was 64.5 mm, so I took a bolt and made a rod from it (using a drill and grinding tip :)), since the current slave is deeper ( the piston groove) than original by IDK I managed to make 71.5 mm rod, installed it, I check putting it in reverse without grinding noise and nothing no noise; raised the rpm to 2000 and still nothing; again to 3000 and nothing, then went for a drive and shifting is better now and the big advancement is that I can somehow now down shift with little resistance but still has to be checked

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