Rays74 Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 I would run a compression check just be certain it's all back together and timed 100%. Quote Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Have not ran compression check, do no have anyone with a tester, or the ability to borrow one from autozone till pay day. But I did adjust the valve lash, there were two or three total that needed a little adjusting, they weren't too far off, but I set them at 0.008 (instake) and 0.010 (exhauast). I then adjusted the timing again, to make sure everything was lined up. Adjusted points in distributor again just to double check. Car did start, I ran it for a while (20 min or so) keeping an eye on fluids, and adjusted teh valve lash again, nothing too major out of whack the book just said to check it at operating temp and I was unable to get the motor to start before then. Now I have got her to run... YES... but she's still not right. When I pull out of my drive way it immediately starts back firing and chokin all over the place, it has no power at all, and back fires every 5 min. Now I KNOW it has to be timing, and i am thinking it is at the distributor... for some reason I am having a HELL of a time adjusting it... any tips would be welcome. I think it is a match box dizzy it points the same way the matchbox does in haiz video, but does not have that black box, i've watched hainz video, but the ability to correctly time this thing still eludes me :( It fires up when cold, when it gets warm it starts wanting to die, I have to hold it to get the RPMS at about 2K and above and hold it to idled so I can go anywhere :( Also found a full motor, trans, wiring, and ecu from a 77 280z, is this a pain in the ass to get to fit, or would it be a good fit, would it eat my radiator? I haven't gone to look at it yet, just had some replies to some craisglist help. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 YOu have a trimming light? Im confused you mension adjusted Points(so its a points dizzy) then you say you have a matchbox dizzy??????????? Im thinking you have a simple issue Your just missing soemthing. Motor runs. If at anytime you drop the front cover oil pump you got to make sure the oil/dizzy soidal is lined up correctly at TDC and the rotor is pointing DIRECTLY at a plug wire which you labol as #1 and go 1 3 4 2 Counter clck wise. fire order. if off a tooth it may run rough. 1st paragraph you said you have Points. If point distributor then try a condensor. If matchbox dizzy make sure you have a EI coil and not a point coil installed. A point coil with NO Ballast will get HOt. Feel it. Im only guiess from the computer end buy maybe when coild its running off the Choke then slowly dies out . Could be the idle jet is plugged. means no gas in the idle circut. abouve idle it goes to the main jet . Some people crank the speed screw all the way in to bypass this but its not right.. Also it could be the micxture screw with the brass tension spring. Thiis controls the idle mixture. it this not right it will act same as a plugged idle jet. This is a half hour fix if your carb/timming is good is good. So if you cant handle this dont even think about hooking up a 6 cylinder with a ECU system take soem photos of the dizzy rotor at TDC zero with cap on and off so when can see where the rorot is in relation close up of the carb also( i dont know stock carbs but others on here will show you the idle jet and mixture. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 I also assume the intake carb is tight and no cracks as this will affect idle also 1 Quote Link to comment
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