Body work question

[SRSANDS]

I have a couple questions about my work I have been doing every night since I got my dime. The lower rockers were pretty bad so I began cuting out metal and replacing it and its coming out pretty well. Towards the front fender on the rocker the metal has rotted right on the body line so I am unable to replace it and keep a nice body line. What should I do? I use rustmore and tried to kill the rust and used duraglass to fill them. Still thinking of cutting it back out. How long will this last if I leave it there?

 

Second issue I am wondering about is I was told not to use BONDO to work on the body. Planning on buying RAGE, I had a new can of BONDO laying around and jumped the gun and decided I might as well use it up before I buy the good stuff. I used it on my rocker panels over my new metal, sanded it down and was stoked the way it turned out. Later that night I started reading on the net how t cracks, chips, and shrinks......shit!!!!! Should sand it all out and start over? Will it last as any filler does or how long does it? Is it all personal opinion...please let me know. If I have to I will wip out the DA and start all over I guess

[hang_510]

i suck at body work, so all i can say is i hate bondo.

i like the FG 'kittyhair' products better. bettter moisture resistance.

 

 

im trying to get a better answer from an ebay seller that sells rockers, for everything.

the last 510 set he sold went for $50.

i heard from 1 person that they werent up to par, but the seller said he has changed vendors since...

ill post more details when i get it.

[SRSANDS]

Thanks man.....let me know when you find out. Whats the sellers name on ebay.....I will check it out

[hang_510]

heres the link to the ended auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350059936271&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123

i also sent an email to the winner for feedback.

 

his name is frank and he knows im trying to find a great vendor for rocker (510) replacements.

 

i talked briefly to him and he said he'll stand behind his quality AND fitment.

he has sold about 8 datsun pairs w/o complaint. uses 20g or 22g steel.

 

 

 

i was looking for someone else(& know many others need them)

 

im glad i dont have to deal with 'real rust' :blink:

[fiveNdime]

I have done my fair share of body work in the past and I know more in the future. I hate bondo.....don't use it if I don't have to, but on that note it can be a life saver for the "SMALL" dents. I shrink the dents using a torch or angle head grinding wheels thats made for shrinking metal. It takes some getting used to but works great, and when finished you need very little bondo. I will also say one thing.....DON'T drive your rig with exposed bondo or primer in the rain, unless its waterproof primer. Thats one of the big mistakes people make. I would use a patch panel from a donor car to fix the bad areas, or make your own. Don't just bondo it up or you will be in the same spot at a later time fixing it. In my opinion If you want cheap then do it cheap....if you want to do it right the first time and not do it again do it right. Simple as that!

[subedats]

yeah I say if you going to use bondo do it the right way start from bare metal and degrese it all then just build in layers less then 1/8 inch thick at a time my rule of thumb is dont use it more than a 1/4 inch thick because then it may crack. but if done the right way it will turn out amazing. just make sure its sanded good probably finish about 320 grit other wise you will see it and all of the sand scratch. Just think all of those show cars that you see on tv and such all have bondo on them. thats why their so straight. just my 2 cents

[SHADY280]

i do body work on the side, and do restos, paint etc. bondo is necessary, but use it as a tool, not as a crutch. for your body line, cut it out and replace it, if you can do rockers, then why not the line. rust-not is great, i put it on anything i think may have anything hanging around, even on bodies that have been blasted.

[whisper3H]

im in the same exact situation... I tried using Dyna-Hair long strand fiberglass body filler, it ended up peeling and having air bubbles (my fault), I am now going to try my hand at sheet metal work, i bought a flare tool and i have cut off wheels, welder etc...

[SRSANDS]

Hey, old post, new car, new friends. I have a buddy now turned out to be a good friend since this post that is a autobody guy. Comes over atleast three times a week now to work on my 510 or just get drunk and shoot the shit. Taught me alot on how to pound sheet metal and body work shit. All I can say is never never use good ol bondo that shit is trash. Spend the money on a good filler. Rage Gold, Upol and other stff is well worth it. For deep gouges and or open (small) hole use DURAGLASS. Knock ot down with very heavy grit then filler over it. After its all said and done use Icing like Dolphin glaze to perfect it. Its all like being an artist and sculpting. Since I purchased the origonal BONDO from Walmart and used it one time at the time of this post I learned a lesson, the only thing its good for is the garbage can! Not only does it sands terrible comparing to the new stuff, it will crack out or show under the paint overtime! Ya, its still on the market after all these years and people speculate that its fine if used properly. I have to disagree, I only agree that there is still enough retards in this worl to make a diffrence of opinion aout bondo. Upol is realatively cheap and its begining to make a very good name in the body work ind. Give it try. All the products they make are very user friendly when it comes to application, sandsing and reliability! Bondo is a name of he past and filler is the present technoogy has definatley made the BONDO brand obsolete

[420n620]

can you post the part numbers of Rage Gold, Upol , Dolphin glaze . I've got sum body work coming up and sounds like the sht I need to use.

[whisper3H]

so say for example when i weld in my new piece of the panel i cut out and there is a small gap in between new and existing panel, i should use the Rage Gold , Upol etc...

[Guest DatsuNoob]

You can also use this stuff called Marglass, I think it's the same. It's for deeper dings and dents (about 1/4"), also used in filling body seams, Dries super hard, then you "cheese-grater" the excess off, and use a lightweight filler on top. I bought a big can of the UPOL Flyweight filler. Supposed to lay down real nice, feather out super thin, and is also supposed to be very sandable. Shoot some hard sealing primer like DP40 afterwards and bob's your unc. I'll let you know how that UPOL works out.

[rat tail dragger]

if your adding new metal treat the old metal first with rust prevention first then after adding the new metal hit it with some 80 grit on the da so the metal is fresh then hit local paint store look for a spray can metal etch,lightly dust the metal area after drying ,use a skimcoat of duraglass it will stiffin the panel plus wont alow for shrink back then apply your rage gold is what i use ,get the body work to were it looks good then a skim coat of icing on top of the rage finish it off with 180 be ready for primer and wont have the deap scratches from the 80 grit and wont be any shrinkage

[rat tail dragger]

can you post the part numbers of Rage Gold, Upol , Dolphin glaze . I've got sum body work coming up and sounds like the sht I need to use.

do not use dolphin glaze it is crap and will shrink up worse than anything ,use usc icing or s e m product no dolphin

[NorCalDime]

replace panels whenever possible. or pull and pop dents as far as possible, get a stud welder if you can, beat in high spots, cover with

 

/endthread

Edited November 10, 2008 by NorCalDime