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ka24de clutch slipping

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hello ratsun. im new to standards so ive never really dealt with clutches before and ive come here for help. ive got a 97 altima fwd with 173xxx miles on it. my first question is if i will need a kit, just the plate, etc. what brand is recommended as well for a daily with this many miles on it. i really want to do this right without spending too much money. so more questions will follow, im sure


i realize this isnt a datsun but i figure its a motor alot of you are familiar with.

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When replacing clutches, I get the kit, which includes the Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate, Throwout bearing, and pilot bearing(Should include a clutch alignment tool). There are a number of trustworthy brands, but if you're not gonna spring for a factory clutch(buko $$$), I'd go with something like Exedy or Aisin. Both good quality and inexpensive, but not cheap junk.


Also, I get the flywheel turned as well. No sense doing a job if you're not gonna do it right.

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ah that makes sense. im trying to get ahold of the PO to find out when the last time it was changed. i mean, it could have been changed just recently, but me with my inexperience fucked it up.


my clutch is hydraulic and everything ive found tells me that there is no way to adjust the free play manually. im going to bleed the clutch tomorrow and if that doesnt help ill pull the trigger on this clutch kit




surprisingly its about 40$ cheaper then the advance/napa/oriellys/pepboys brand. not sure what autozone charges, didnt bother to check.

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Micro is spot on !


Clutch kit and flywheel machining ftw.


If your input bushing/bearing is bad .. make sure to replace or it will significantly multiply wear on your trans/ruin it.


Make sure to use supplied input shaft "lube" on input splines/shaft/collar travel area/pivot points.


I personally prefer "blue" loctite on flywheel pressure plate bolts (not neccessary just a preference)


In addition this is the 100% absolute best time to inspect for a seeping/ leaking rear main seal. Replace as neccessary. If its leaking bad enough it can get on the clutch disc and cause slippage. Same with tranny front seal.


If you have an internal clutch hydraulic throwout bearing (hydraulic portion mostly) ... that is another consideration



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bleeding the clutch didnt help, and i was able to adjust it, but it didnt get me anywhere because its too far gone. i drove it a couple of times today and it was getting progressively worse, really fast. im almost afraid that it wont make it down the street and up a hill to the shop ill be using tomorrow


not happy about it but i ended up today getting an advance brand kit. the next two days will be the only time for awhile that i will have to work on it and because of my work, i couldnt wait for a kit to be shipped. im going to keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best.


are there any special tools that i will need to rent or have on hand to do this job?

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ggzilla --- my turds ... i mean ... Ford ranger and old F-150 have internal hydraulic throwout bearing with no adjustment ( thank you ford! Lol)


*Make darn sure rear main oil seal isn't leaking on clutch disc or you'll be doing this again very soon ... same with front trans seal (but less likely)

** You likely will probably need access to a pilot bearing puller/installer ... or if your crafty makeshift a slide hammer lolz. ( a bad one is not to be ignored = can screw tranny easily yet a portion of people still dismiss it's importance )

* Blue thread loc-tite if you prefer (not neccessary)

* When you open your clutch kit ... make sure = everything is there .... (disc/pressure plate/lineup tool/pilot bushing/throwout bearing/lube) ...especially lube ... I have opened a few with missing pieces and it was very irritating lolz. It's happened to me a couple of times years ago.


A side note I like to check the "input shaft bearing slop" ... just grab the input shaft and wiggle in all directions ... a little loose is normal/good ... a lot is not good and means your transmissions last days are probably approaching soon :lol:


Pilot bearing/bushing replacement will probably take you the longest if you have never done before. Just go easy and be patient. The grease trick has never really worked for me ( but I'm def not a pro :lol:)

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Grease trick works if the plug fits TIGHT ... and it you smack it good and hard.

But why change that? They rarely go bad.


I guess I'm not that skilled :lol: :)


I used old input shafts/rods/whatever with shitloads of grease but couldn't get it to go haha.


Nope they don't go bad that often .. but in older domestics I've seen a couple.


I've seen (1) pilot bearing on an l24 that was bad (po beat the shit out of the car ... raced everyone lol not sure exactly how) but that was it for datsuns :).


I guess it's good form to go through the beat and :)

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I took out my bushing by taking a small screw driver and hammer and kept scoring the bushing til it split. Made sure not to scrape the crank. Once split it came out with little effort. Bushing was brass or copper, whatever, it was soft. I saw this done somewhere else... Just make sure to clean any shavings you may have made.

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clutch is now replaced. it took more hours to complete then id care to admit. i rented a slide hammer with a pilot barring puller/installer attachment but it ended up being too large to grip the barring, it seemed like it was is ok shape so i left it in.


its insaine how much pickup it has now in the first two gears, almost too much. is there any way i can adjust that? ive tried adjusting the clutch lever but has little to now effect

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