lightweight l20b flywheel

[lil89ram50]

i need a light weight l20b 6 bolt flywheel. looking for anywhere from 9-12lbs.

lmk what you have, and post pics, and a price

[lil89ram50]

bump

[Skib]

hit up the 510 keeper.

 

hes got a really nice aluminum L20B flywheel f/s along with an adjustable cam gear.

[datzenmike]

I need someone to look at what forum they are posting in before hitting the ENTER key. You already have a post about this... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/43327-clutches/page__pid__683886?do=findComment&comment=683886

[lil89ram50]

yea and if you read that it was asking more about a clutch disc. not a flywheel. i know what i want for a flywheel, just not a disc. so maybe someone else should look closer

[KlassicMotion]

I'm kind of in the same boat of shopping for a flywheel. If you want a flywheel in that rate range, my research shows a KA 6 bolt flywheel from a 240sx will work. Here is a link to a lightened flywheel on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150730700776?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

[banzai510(hainz)]

http://www.specclutches.com/spec_app3.asp?m=29&o=0&y=0

[lil89ram50]

bump bump anyone got one??? i guess anywhere from 9-17 lbs? lightened stock, or alum. aftermarket

[banzai510(hainz)]

Fidanza makes them 380$

[lil89ram50]

not looking to empty my wallet. sorry. someone has to have one there not using

[datzenmike]

Take this and a wheel to a machine shop and have them make you one.

 

 

 

I've measured several stock 225mm and 240mm 'wheels' and they tend to range from 29 down to 21 pounds.

 

The 21 pound ones are cast with a scalloped back against the engine side.

 

29 pound 225mm L20B flywheel

 

21 pound 225mm flywheel

 

 

 

.

[lil89ram50]

thanks mike!! i did this today on a brake lathe! if yor careful, it turns out very good! took about 3 hours, but it looks great, and is a hell of a lot cheaper than a brang new fidanza! weighs in at 14.5 lbs now. started with 21lbs from a 240sx ka24de

[lil89ram50]

this thread can be deleted

[datzenmike]

Nope. This thread and all info within it is now the intellectual property of Ratsun and freely available to it's members.

 

14.5 pounds eh? That is worth knowing :lol: :lol:

[lil89ram50]

no one will find it in the classifieds though. since no one searches. maybe you will move it to the engine thread? and delete the first 9 posts? lol and i went to the datsport page you posted me. it says leave at least 10mm on the friction, and if used on the streets daily, leave about 13mm..... well i wanted it light, but still mostly safe. i left it at 11mm. i didnt take any pics, and i already installed it!!! haha ive had this motor out 4 times this summer. so i had this fly wheel lightened in about 2.5-3 hours. And removed the motor, installed new flywheel, and had motor back in and ready to run within 3 hours :) good day id say :)

 

i highly reccomend this to anyone who shaves there wheels. if you shave a wheel with a pressed on starter ring gear, and you shave the metal away from around it like the illustration says, please add a few good welds to it. id have to it to come off from the lack of metal around it.

 

if anyone has anyquestions, please ask me

[datzenmike]

I have a question..... how did you balance it?

 

 

Damn some pictures of this would be really handy. I've heard of this being done, and that's it. Just the info of under 15 pounds is priceless.

[lil89ram50]

i didnt balance it. do not have the machining capabiities of that. hopefully it will not be too bad. we have one machinist in town, and he would not lighten it as he does stock stuff. will not install larger valves or anything. he has such a huge market with all the agriculture stuff ( mainly old tractor motors) he can pick and choose what he wants to work on. he told me to find some one else to do it. he said it would be an easy thing to do, but he would have to waste 3 hours to do it, and only make 80 or 90 bucks. where as he could be working on something much more profitable. i will let you know hopefully to morrow what i get for vibrations.

 

 

i also drilled 8 large holes in the front crank pulley. this also took a decent amount of rotational weight out of the assembly. next thing will be to get a one piece aluminum drive shaft, and possibly some internal motor work. specifically the connecting rods. when i do them, i will be modifying them to accept big block chevy ARP connecting rod bolts. i have seen this once, and i think this was a very smart thing to do.

 

and i wil also get the rotational assembly balanced. and rebuild the rest of the motor. i had plans of a ka24de swap, but this seems like fun. its so easy to work on. i actually enjoy being ably to tinker on this truck. i work on it more than i drive it. but that is fine with me. its my toy. and sometimes dayly driver.

[EricJB]

Make sure to leave nice smooth radius' in the corners, just like the drawing. Sharp corners is where they tend to fly apart. Some machinist's dont want the possible liability of a cast flyweel exploding after they lighten it. ( I was turned away many years ago as well) The one in my truck is 16.lbs, and it get nothing but 7k clutch dumps. No sharp corners or grooves. should work fine. Take the Pressure plate with, to be ballanced as one.