Removing Oil pan and front seal. L20B

[Dat Lurka]

How do I properly remove the front seal from timing cover? Smack it with a big socket from the back?

Then how do I install my new one?

 

Also.. I put a new timing kit on the L20 in my 620. I broke a bolt off, top bolt of the left chain guide! So I drilled it out, like a pro, and got a new bolt. I need to fully remove the oil pan so I can clean out any shavings and put the new gasket on.

Whats the easiest way to get the steering bar out of the way so I can drop the pan? Suspension vocabulary isn't that great so pics would be appreciated.

 

Ah an another thing.... The bolt I used to replace the broken one is about 25% longer than the originals. It didn't bottom out. Is there anything behind the hole (top hole of left chain guide) I should worry about? Do I need to pull it out and grind it down?

[banzai510(hainz)]

How the bolt break. Your not to torq it down more than a few pounds.

I would use a correcct bolt myself just in case there is any tension pushing it out. But if you feel fine with it at least add soem thread locker(the removalable kind)

 

as for the shavings you should have put a rag.

 

Taking the steering off i alot of work. I would just drain the oil put depending on what the oil pan is it could have that center splash plate and the shavings could be on one side.

 

the tight side giude uses a flat washer then the lock washer then the bolt.

[Dat Lurka]

How the bolt break. Your not to torq it down more than a few pounds.

I would use a correcct bolt myself just in case there is any tension pushing it out. But if you feel fine with it at least add soem thread locker(the removalable kind)

 

as for the shavings you should have put a rag.

 

Taking the steering off i alot of work. I would just drain the oil put depending on what the oil pan is it could have that center splash plate and the shavings could be on one side.

 

the tight side giude uses a flat washer then the lock washer then the bolt.

 

I broke the bolt with a tiny turn of my gargantuan hands. The bolt I used is metric, same threads, etc. Washer, lock, bolt head. I pulled out each bolt individually and used locktight on them.

I wasn't thinking while I was drilling, and yes, there is a splash plate in the pan. I'm going to rinse the front of the block off with diesel and pour it through the pan a few times.

I figured it would be a pain in the ass but how do I go about removing the bar? It's a real bitch putting the cork gasket on blind.

 

Also, I put your old ass video on dvd and stuck it in my portable player. Thanks for the help.

[datzenmike]

The front timing chain seal will pry out with a large screwdriver on or off the motor.

 

Loosen/remove the bolts to the idler arm and let it drop down. Turn full L or R ... it may move the cross rod slightly forward also.

 

Steel shavings aren't going to float and will settle to the bottom most part of the pan and fall out with an oi change. I wouldn't even worry about them. Open oil drain and just rinse out with some diesel followed by some ATF.

[Dat Lurka]

Alright guys thanks.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Never done the steering arm thing.

I tried to take the idler arm off once and I drop a testicle and said, Fuck it.

Yes the gasket I have changed by loosening the motor mounts and putting the jack under the trans lifting up the motor and sticking my girly skinny hands and slipping the oil pan gasket under neath the sump pick up.

 

The front seal I drill a few holes in there to weaken it up then pry it out. Put oil/grease on there.

[Dat Lurka]

I pulled the tie rod out and did the pan. Front cover is on too. Now just to bolt everything else on...