Draynor Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 I just got my fuel tank in and got the goon running. My problem is when I get to about 30mph it wants to slow itself down and wont go any faster, it starts sputtering and when I am on the gas pedal it will go all the way down and still be at about 30. It is a stock l16 auto-tragic Does anybody have any suggestions on what to check for or what I should do? Any help is appreciated... -Derek Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Does it revv in nuetral? gummed fuel lines/carburetor? I'm assuming since you just put it in the fuel tank is nice and clean, fuel filter clogged? Ignition system working nicely? timing good? Pull fuel line from carb and feed it into a bucket and crank it, does the fuel squirt out nicely? Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Does it revv in nuetral? gummed fuel lines/carburetor? I'm assuming since you just put it in the fuel tank is nice and clean, fuel filter clogged? Ignition system working nicely? timing good? It will rev in nuetral, Didn't check the fuel lines yet, Has a new fuel filter and I cleaned the tank inside and out. Ignition is working good, not sure on the timing though... I will try this when I get home... Thanks Pull fuel line from carb and feed it into a bucket and crank it, does the fuel squirt out nicely? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 When something out of the ordinary happens the first thing I do is look at the last thing I did on it. You don't say if it was working fine before the tank was removed but I'm going to assume so and that removing the tank has added a problem. You don't mention why the tank was out or if it's a new one which might have an existing problem. Seems like it isn't getting enough gas. Moving the tank can stir up sediment which is now plugging your fuel filter. If you have never changed the fuel filter or not for a year, do so now. If the hose clamps on the fuel lines are not tight enough or for whatever reason not sealing tightly, air can leak in and disrupt the fuel flow from the pump. Try driving with the gas cap loose so the tank is vented to the outside air. Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 When something out of the ordinary happens the first thing I do is look at the last thing I did on it. You don't say if it was working fine before the tank was removed but I'm going to assume so and that removing the tank has added a problem. You don't mention why the tank was out or if it's a new one which might have an existing problem. Seems like it isn't getting enough gas. Moving the tank can stir up sediment which is now plugging your fuel filter. If you have never changed the fuel filter or not for a year, do so now. If the hose clamps on the fuel lines are not tight enough or for whatever reason not sealing tightly, air can leak in and disrupt the fuel flow from the pump. Try driving with the gas cap loose so the tank is vented to the outside air. I bought the car barley running, It had a huge hole in the original tank that was poorly patched, so i replaced it with a tank that was rust free. When I bought the car I did not get to test drive it (No brakes, in Seattle), only got to hear it run. I have a new fuel filter. I will check the hose clamps when I am out there. There is no gas cap... :blink: Thanks for the suggestions guys, hopefully Its not a big problem. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Well if only idled it could just as well be the carburetor. If the filter doesn't work, take for a drive and when it starts to quit, as fast as you can get the key off and into neutral, (fast as possible) and then carefully and safely pull over. This should preserve the conditions at the carburetor when it was acting up. Take a look at the front of the carb where the glass fuel sight glass is. The fuel should be at or near the horizontal etched line in the glass. If full then this is not a tank, fuel line, filter or pump problem and may be inside the carb. If empty or near empty, it could be any of the above plus the brass screen at the carb inlet banjo fitting or the float may be set too high. Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Well if only idled it could just as well be the carburetor. If the filter doesn't work, take for a drive and when it starts to quit, as fast as you can get the key off and into neutral, (fast as possible) and then carefully and safely pull over. This should preserve the conditions at the carburetor when it was acting up. Take a look at the front of the carb where the glass fuel sight glass is. The fuel should be at or near the horizontal etched line in the glass. If full then this is not a tank, fuel line, filter or pump problem and may be inside the carb. If empty or near empty, it could be any of the above plus the brass screen at the carb inlet banjo fitting or the float may be set too high. Ok, i just got home I am going to go check that out first, and ill let you know what happens... Thanks again Mike! Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 I did what you said and there was fuel to the line on the carb. But my uncle came over unexpectedly, and he was taking a look and started spraying some WD40 around the carb, to check for vacuum leaks, he said it looked like there wasn't any, So we adjusted the carb a little bit and now the car goes up to 40-50mph but then has the same problem... I am gonna check the fuel lines and hoses to see if they are tight. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Is there smoke coming out the tail pipe? Black, white or blue? Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Is there smoke coming out the tail pipe? Black, white or blue? No smoke, just a little condensation from when I washed it but that went away within a couple minutes... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Was thinking maybe the choke stuck. Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Double post fail... :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Was thinking maybe the choke stuck. The choke isn't stuck that I know of, It seems like it is working properly... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Just to let you know if you still have points in this I would run another ballast resisitor in series with the stock reisistor. Super Coils are .7 ohms and the stock one is 1.6ohms Points will premature burn up faster make sure the 2nd side of the carb opens up. Im not a stock cartb expert , But I would rev it up and them put your hand over the main barrel and see if the 2nd barrel opens up with vaccuum. then maybe see if it runs with your finger pushing it open. make sure its timed correctly. Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Just to let you know if you still have points in this I would run another ballast resisitor in series with the stock reisistor. Super Coils are .7 ohms and the stock one is 1.6ohms Points will premature burn up faster make sure the 2nd side of the carb opens up. Im not a stock cartb expert , But I would rev it up and them put your hand over the main barrel and see if the 2nd barrel opens up with vaccuum. then maybe see if it runs with your finger pushing it open. make sure its timed correctly. It won't even stay idling now...I have really been thinking about getting a Webber just to see if that fixes it plus it was my plan from the get go anyway just haven't gotten around to picking one up... Also you told me about adding another resistor before, Just haven't gotten to it yet,haven't got to really anything yet just a few things. probably only drove it no more than 7-10 times... Quote Link to comment
zed Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 mike and hainz are the experts, but are you sure your ignition is good? I've been fooled plenty by a bad capacitor or plug wires... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 burnt up points could make it look like a bad carb. open up the dizzy and look at the points,if burn up replace and HIGHLY consider putting in another ballast resistor in series or buy a stock coil for a 510 for that year. and also gap them right If you lived closer I would look at this for FREE(but only one time) Next I charge double! anybody live closer to help? this wagoon is COOL Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 when one buys a ACCELL Supercoil there is a .85 ohm resisitor that comes with it thats is suppossed to be added in series with the stock ballast resisitor in series. Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 when one buys a ACCELL Supercoil there is a .85 ohm resisitor that comes with it thats is suppossed to be added in series with the stock ballast resisitor in series. I have the stock coil (Came with the wagoon). Should I just put that back in? The super coil came in the car, and I don't really see a need for it... The points,plugs and plug wires are all fairly new...probably only have 30-35 starts on them... I appreciate the offer to look at it for me, Damn Parkdale :mad: :rofl: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 If you sure its a stock 510 coil put it back in and put a new set of points in there and maybe a condensor. gap to .020. Try this first. I run SUPERCOILS myself but I have the stock and the 2nd .85 ohm ballast in series and run a Pertronix and have had no proplems in years except the tape on the magnet ring on Pertronix ring wearing out. I have gotten new magnet rings. No idel make sure the mixture is adjusted correctly. the brass screw with the spring on it. be honest if you just pump the gas ,gas should shoot in the main barrel and it should fire off for a few seconds. Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 If I keep giving it gas it will stay running but once I let go a few seconds later it will die... I will try puttin the stock coil in and checking the other things you suggested... Thanks again for the help Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 going by my privios expeience I would tighten the carb mounts and intake turn the mixture screw (with brass tension ring on there).. I say gentrly turn it in all the way till it stops. then turn it out in 1/2 turn incremants to say no more than 2.5 turns out. it should run about there. IF NOT then the idle jet could be plugged also.. If motor runs with Choke fully ON this bypasses the idle circut. another sign idle jet is plugged or mixture off. If motor runs above idle, then idle circut plugged. But if dont run above idle then main jet circut/carb is bad also. what I do is I pump the carb to keep it running. Meaning its running off the accell pump on the carb siite glass gallas should be close to the line Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Wow thanks for all that, hopefully I can get this figured out with what you told me, my uncle is coming over in the next couple days too so hopefully he can try and help some more... The site glass is very close to the line Quote Link to comment
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