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help with my monster 510


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i have a l20b with a a87 peanut head and dual su and electronic dizzy .

 

my timing is set at 30 degrees at 2500 rpms

my wide band reads 12.8 -13.1 at idle and at wot its at 10-11.2

93 octane always

when i open the throttle the car accelerates and accelerates and pause and accerlates higher and keeps going pass 4 thousand and then pause and then continues and then pause aghhhhhhh it drives me crazy i checked i have no vacum leak timing is " at normal " lol ...

what can be wrong

 

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First of all the block vent should always be connected to the PCV valve right there between your carbs. The valve cover vent can be run to a catch can but not the block vent. The PCV valve will draw out unburnt gas and water vapor fumes from inside the crank case that would normally condense and foul your oil. (gas/water in oil = not good)

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Acceleration, pause, acceleration, pause, acceleration, pause... could be the carbs running out of gas, refilling slightly and running out again.

 

Fuel filter dirty or obstructed? Pull the hose off the outlet of the pump and direct into a bucket. Crank motor with the coil wire off. There should be a series of very strong squirts of fuel from the pump.

 

Float set too low and not enough fuel in bowl(s)? Make a mark 23mm down from the top lip of the float chamber.Get some clear tubing and plug into the bottom of the float chamber and hold up against the mark. This will show the fuel level inside the bowl. Disconnect the coil wire and crank the motor until the fuel level stabilizes. Adjust float as needed.

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Normally the valve cover hose is directed inside the air filter so the blow by fumes are run through the motor. Catch cans are for race cars (that blow motors) or worn out motors (that blow oil) A catch can car is going to smell unless mounted down low so the fumes are blown under the car. Down beside the starter would be best.

 

Get that PCV connected.

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If the hose is sitting in oil,,,,, it's not a "catch can" ... ... . both of those hoses need to breathe

 

... ... .. you don't put your cold air intake in a bucket of ice-water do you??? ...... :lol:

 

lmao the hoses are cut engineered to not suck oil . lol just cut 45 degree

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Yes the hole in the side of the block is connected by a hose to the PCV valve mounted into the intake manifold. The PCV valve is a one way valve (to prevent a back fire from possibly igniting these fumes in the hose and traveling back into the motor) with a very small opening or 'leak'. Manifold vacuum draws the fumes from the crankcase in to be burned. The air removed from the crankcase is replaced by air drawn in through the hose on top of the valve cover. The valve cover hose is connected inside the air filter so only filtered air in allowed into the motor.

 

Under some conditions of heavy throttle and low manifold vacuum, the blow by gasses exceed the PCV valve's ability to remove them and excess gasses reverse their direction and go out the valve cover hose and are drawn into the carburetor.

 

This is a marvelously simple system that vacuums combustion by-products, water vapor and blow by from the inside of the engine and burns them. Before the advent of the PCV engines were incredibly dirty inside and oil changes were much more frequent. I remember changing the oil in my dad's old 50s Chev and 4 quarts would over fill it. Years later the oil pan was off and there was a half inch of whitish putty on the bottom of it.

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off the topic ,i have a 1969 gauge cluuster and i wanted to know how can i wire my cluster to work (because idk how much gas i have ) 12 volts to the cluster and thats all ? i have the harness for the interioir but not for the engine bay whats my best bet to do . all i want is my fuel gauge to read !

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off the topic ,i have a 1969 gauge cluuster and i wanted to know how can i wire my cluster to work (because idk how much gas i have ) 12 volts to the cluster and thats all ? i have the harness for the interioir but not for the engine bay whats my best bet to do . all i want is my fuel gauge to read !

 

The gauge cluster has a voltage regulator built into it that supplies both the temp and the gas gauges. (without this regulator working the gauges won't work) The other ends are grounded through the temp and gas tank senders to ground. The wire from dash to the tank sender is Yellow. To test, grounding this wire will make the gauge read FULL tank.The temp gauge wire is Yellow/White.

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hey king rat , since i have no power going into the cluster how to i give 12 v to it and which color wirenis going to recieve the 12v and then all i have to do is ground the yellow wire and that means my fuel gauge will work ? all im concern is for my fuel gauge to work , i have my water temp on a autometer gauge already , so all i need is a fuel gauge to read and my speed , should i adapt a fuse between the 12v and cluster ?

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off the topic ,i have a 1969 gauge cluuster and i wanted to know how can i wire my cluster to work (because idk how much gas i have ) 12 volts to the cluster and thats all ? i have the harness for the interioir but not for the engine bay whats my best bet to do . all i want is my fuel gauge to read !

 

any luck rat king with my question on how to give the cluster 12v to see if the temp and fuel gauges are grou ded and working properly ? thanks

 

 

Ha ha I was hoping this would just go away :lol:

 

OK if your harness inside is there and working but no engine harness?? How is the ignition working then?

 

Do you have ignition power to the fuse box?

Do any of your gauges work? like the turn signals?

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im running switches to my ignition then my starter and then my lights and fan and ext... my brakes work because i ran new wire , i never had a harness in the engine bay so i made my own ..... i did have the harnes in the car which i used to jump the same wires to fuses and light switches and stuff , thats why i ask how can i make my cluster fuel gauge to work ? i have the diagram but i can figure how to give it power so the gauges can work since you said they are just grounded and waiting to have some nive 12v so they can finally work again , get me ?

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Looks like a Green wire goes to the gauge cluster #8 pin taking 12v to it. This will power the volt regulator for the Gas and Temp gauges (among other things. It appears to be the only Green wire going there.

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