xzile609 Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 I am trying to put a ka24de into a 1968 4 door 510 I have followed every guide and forum post to try to do this swap and its not working out Flipped the x member completed the power steering delete got the stock 510 motor mounts cut the trans tunnel for the shifter. Widened out the trans tunnel for clearance shortened the drive shaft. I stabbed the motor and trans in the car and the 510 mounts are binding what seems like an incredible amount. so now the trans mount will not line up. Honestly as much as I love these cars I am almost ready to throw in the towel and call the junkers to come get it. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 That would be foolish. At the very least, pass it off to someone who can complete it or put it back to stock. This is exactly why there are so few of these great cars around today. :angry: Honestly as much as I love these cars I am almost ready to throw in the towel and call the junkers to come get it. What you just said there is equivalent to someone saying, "I love my wife so much that I mutilated, then divorced her". That statement doesn't even make sense. :no: As far as your fitment issues, I'm using the rubber motor mount insulators from a 75' 620 pickup. I had to do a little grinding and notching of the KA motor mounts, but it fits. Granted, I also made a rear sump pan, so I know the fit will be different that a front sump. I believe the 510 rubber insulators were too thick. Quote Link to comment
Sinnful Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 In my KA/SR swap i run 620 motor mounts Quote Link to comment
Sinnful Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Oh wait a minute Did you use a jig for flipping the crossmember? Also what transmission mount are you using? Hopefully not the stock 510 one Quote Link to comment
xzile609 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 That would be foolish. At the very least, pass it off to someone who can complete it or put it back to stock. This is exactly why there are so few of these great cars around today. :angry: What you just said there is equivalent to someone saying, "I love my wife so much that I beat her then divorced her". That statement doesn't even make sense. :no: As far as your fitment issues, I'm using the rubber motor mount insulators from a 75' 620 pickup. I had to do a little grinding and notching of the KA motor mounts, but it fits. Granted, I also made a rear sump pan, so I know the fit will be different that a front sump. I believe the 510 rubber insulators were too thick. Its more like I loved my wife then she gained 600 pounds. foolish maybe Quote Link to comment
xzile609 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Oh wait a minute Did you use a jig for flipping the crossmember? Also what transmission mount are you using? Hopefully not the stock 510 one Yes a Jig was made to flip the x member. No not the 510 tranny its the KA 5 speed that came with the motor which I also put a clutch masters fx100 clutch in it just before stabbing it in. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 There are a couple different styles of stock L-series mounts. The stock 510 mounts are thinner, and the 620 mounts are taller. If you're running the 510 mounts, the rubber is probably stretched out a bit. Is this what you're referring to in terms of bind? You should snap a few pictures for us so we know exactly what you're talking about. On mine, I opted to use McKinney Motorsports adapter brackets in polyurethane. It did set the engine up a bit higher than I would like, but for me that is actually beneficial as I don't live on the nice smoothe streets of Southern California like you do. I enjoy as much oil pan clearance as possible around here, where I can easily bottom my car out in my own driveway. Truck (620) mounts will set the engine up a tad bit higher, but their additional height eases the binding that you may see with 510 mounts, because you're not trying to stretch a bunch of not-very-stretchy rubber out. You can also use either the upper or lower holes in the crossmember for mounting the mounts to, which may help you with clocking in the correct engine angle. Take some pictures for us and we can give you advice from there. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
kneesamo Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Honestly as much as I love these cars I am almost ready to throw in the towel and call the junkers to come get it. Please don't do this! Throw in the towel all you wan't, just don't send it to the junkyard. Quote Link to comment
chebetio510 Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 i'll give u what the junk yard will give u.. :) with ka.. let me know when to get it Quote Link to comment
xzile609 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 i'll give u what the junk yard will give u.. :) with ka.. let me know when to get it This guy Quote Link to comment
xzile609 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 There are a couple different styles of stock L-series mounts. The stock 510 mounts are thinner, and the 620 mounts are taller. If you're running the 510 mounts, the rubber is probably stretched out a bit. Is this what you're referring to in terms of bind? You should snap a few pictures for us so we know exactly what you're talking about. On mine, I opted to use McKinney Motorsports adapter brackets in polyurethane. It did set the engine up a bit higher than I would like, but for me that is actually beneficial as I don't live on the nice smoothe streets of Southern California like you do. I enjoy as much oil pan clearance as possible around here, where I can easily bottom my car out in my own driveway. Truck (620) mounts will set the engine up a tad bit higher, but their additional height eases the binding that you may see with 510 mounts, because you're not trying to stretch a bunch of not-very-stretchy rubber out. You can also use either the upper or lower holes in the crossmember for mounting the mounts to, which may help you with clocking in the correct engine angle. Take some pictures for us and we can give you advice from there. :) Thanks for the input! Yea I decided to use the stock 510 mounts because they seemed thinner and was told to use the 2 lower bolt holes on the x member. Even though I have the 510 mounts, the motor seems to be up 2 high. I had a friend of mine helping me stab this in. To even get the bottom 2 holes of the mount to line up with the passenger bolt holes on the x member we had to use a come-along to pull it to the rear x member. I'm going to put the rear mount in tonight lower the trans down and see if it will sit on the mount. If its supposed to bind that much okay but man makes me nervous. Ill try and snap some photos. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 ????????????????? Quote Link to comment
xzile609 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 ????????????????? I was explaining how the picture will look with the mount sitting on the side and not inside the cup where I need to bolt it in. Quote Link to comment
socaldatsun Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Come out thursday bro. pretysure you could get some advice from some one that has done it or get some one to come and give you a hand. Quote Link to comment
Sinnful Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 when I bolted my KA in my car, I used brand new 620 motor mounts and bolted them in normal as in the mount matched the tower on the crossmember if that makes sense. I didnt lower my motor mount that low on the tower as you did. I will see if I can find a picture 1 Quote Link to comment
FiveTenzo Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Did you buy new motor mounts?? Cus it looks like you used the old ones. And your trany looks pretty dam high. I used new 510 motor mounts from rockauto and everything is looking good. Will post pics tomorrow. But if your not using new motor mounts I would get new ones first. Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Yep, you are definitely going to want new isolators. Those old crusty ones will break as soon as you torque on that motor hard, lol. I reworked my mounts, so they lined up perfectly in the factory top holes, with brand new 510 isolators. It also looks like your motor needs to go back just a little bit more Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 creepy thats one clean install!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
xzile609 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Yep, you are definitely going to want new isolators. Those old crusty ones will break as soon as you torque on that motor hard, lol. I reworked my mounts, so they lined up perfectly in the factory top holes, with brand new 510 isolators. It also looks like your motor needs to go back just a little bit more Yea i'm going to get new isolators this is just to get the car setup because I had those right now. Is you car a 68? Quote Link to comment
xzile609 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Double posted dont know why. Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 creepy thats one clean install!!!!!!!!! Thank you. Here's a crappy cell phone pic if it now. (one of these days I'll get a build thread together, lol) Yea i'm going to get new isolators this is just to get the car setup because I had those right now. Is you car a 68? Nope, this car is a '71. Everything should be the same though, except the position of the lower control arm mounts. (they are a little higher on the '68, but it don't effect the motor or the mounts at all) Quote Link to comment
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