RAlly_DatoB210 Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Where can I order factory datsun paint colors? Is There a website or would my best bet just go to a body shop? I want to do the factory datsun smurf blue Color code for 75 b210 is 225 other models similar flat tealish blue but darker is 567 found it all at this great website that I'm sure most of you know about. Nothing new probably but still a good resource thought I would include it in my post. http://www.ratdat.com/?p=225 Quote Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted March 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Bump who has ordered paint ever? Can I tint rustoleum? Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 I Bought mine at the local paint store although alot of the colors are onl available in single stage enamels..... Quote Link to comment
zed1 Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Here are two sources: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/choosecolor.aspx?year=1966&make=Datsun&model=All+Models http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclchip.aspx?image=1967-datsun-pg01.jpg Keith Quote Link to comment
Figbuck Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 I'm not sure you are asking the right questions... so I hope I give you the right answer. Sounds like you don't want to spend any money if you even consider Rustoleum. If the body work is not good and you just want to put a clean finish on it maybe spray thinned Rustoleum out of a can but if you have to go to the step of tinting it... there is no advantage only a recipe for disaster. I painted my truck with a gallon of cheap Marine Enamel and it came back to bite me years later when I went to restore it. All the junk I put on had to be taken off. But It did keep the truck from rusting through for all those years... ? If I was you... sigh... I would find somebody else to paint it for me.... Ah, no you want advice. I would go to the local automotive refinishing supplier and talk to the counter guy. There has to be one or two places that supply the body shops with paint, Bondo and spray equipment. Tell him what you want to do and without being a total dufus, get him to help you select the cheapest and easiest paint type or system for what you want to do. In California they won't sell you some types of paint and solvents if you are not a business. If you don't know what you want, they tell you to get lost they won't sell to you. I have sprayed painted cars, trucks, motorcycle tanks, bodywork and shit loads of houses, cabinets, millwork and furniture. I'm still learning all the time and the methods and materials are changing all the time too. I went to the library and checked out a bunch of books on body work and car painting. They were all so old that it was only interesting in that I could see how they used to paint cars! The biggest thing that helped me was spending $20 on a book on the rack at Kragens called How to Restore Your Classic Car. There are other books too by the same guy, how to bodywork, how to paint flames... all good current advice and photos. There is a shit load of vids on You-tube now too that show guys doing low buck repaints. I've done them in driveways, sealed storage units, dirty drafty cold crowded garages and modern spray booths. Painting is not that hard... if you have some basic tools and a decent place to do it. You can make an expensive mess in a hurry if you don't have every thing planned and laid out. Mistakes are always fixable, but it is better to get it right the first time. In the end it ain't about the cost of the paint but the time it takes to do the job half-assed right. I'll bet those pre-mixed factory colors are expensive. Body shops mix colors if they are big shops. They may have one guy in his own room that just mixes for the painters. Most body shops get their supplier, Sherwin Williams, Dulux, PPG, whatever to mix the colors for them. If you can get a code they can probably cross-reference it for you and mix half a pint for you to spray out. It might be expensive but if you are picky about matching a color it's worth doing. I have brought pieces of bodywork to them so they can scan it with the Oracle. It read the color and gives you a formula. That is all you really need to figure out what is the formula number for the color you want. I wanted a dark blue color for my truck. I looked in the PPG manufacturer's paint chip/code book and found like a Porche, Lexus, Mazda that all had a common color. When I sprayed it out it was too light. I went back to the big color sample book and picked one of the darker blues from a whole page of dark blues you could barley tell one from another. It doesn't matter to me what cars it might have been used on... that is my paint color formula. I used a three coat system. Primer, color coat and clear for the outside body work. My clear was ordered dead flat so it looks old skool primer but colored. The inside of the bed, cab interior and engine bay were shot with a two-part urethane over primer. It saved me a few hundred bucks in material costs and turned out cool. They tint every single can they sell except to sell cases of base paint to shops that do their color matching. I also used expensive PPG for the outside and their budget brand OMNI for the bed and cab. I could have... maybe should have shot the whole thing with Omni and saved a lot of money. As it turns out with daily drivers, I have four or five dents, dings, and scratches in two years. I shouldn't have done such a good job, I'm going to have to deal with it again some day anyway. All I have to do is give them my paint formula, they mix me what I need to fix it. If all you had to do was remove, mirrors, parking lamps, bumpers... wash the vehicle thoroughly, sand lightly, rinse, mask stuff off and be ready to blow paint on... It's still going to cost at least five or six hundred bucks on a decent two part epoxy primer, inexpensive two part urethame, solvents and supplies. You don't need expensive guns just the ability to have the right tips for primers, primer/sealers or paints. You do need 3m respirators, fans, lights, clean dry air source for the gun... all the shit they talk about in the books. Quote Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thanks everyone and extra thanks to figbuck that was all very good tips and advice. I am going in tommorrow morning to a shop in Wailuku to kill a few birds with a few stones. Talked to a guy named Dino from the tint shop that did my car. Said he can order paint, contacted someone who paints houses from their CL add and he's going to shoot it for a hundred bucks. I am using a pair of sunglasses as redderence because they said datsun was too old for paint codes. Hopefully for how cheapo of a job this is it doesn't turn out total crap. I buffed it all smooth with simple green but haven't washed it. I will most likely hose it off and dry it before shooting it. All I am removing is grill tail lights and bumpers but I loaded up on newspaper and pilfed some plastic sheets from work and have plenty of scotch blue. If I can make a decent 20 footer I would be happy I am talking with crackerjack about doing some wood grain vinyl work for the sides as well so a few mess ups could maybe be hidden that way too. We shall see how it goes tentatively planning on spraying it this next weekend but hawaiian time takes full effect and it's had to line up help etc Quote Link to comment
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