Runnin Hot/Hard to time

[DatDoug]

O.K. here is the story. I just bot this 79 620 and it was not runnin. The P.O. said he changed the head gasket and lost the chain down into the timing cover and had some friends finish it up. He said it would ping when timed rite and would be hard to start. He also said it would run hot about 200 degrees.

 

Well I got it and turned the dist. a little and tapped on the starter and put i fresh bat. and it fired rite up. (Weber carb and header) Drove it like that for a while and it ran good but would diesel on shut off. It also ran hot at higher speeds about 200 degrees. So I set it @ TDC and pulled the oil pump turned dist. 1 tooth and timed it @ 12d. b.t.d.c. It ran ok but not rite, so I set it @ 18 btdc & it ran better. Then it would not start.

 

So my suspicion is that they got the chain off a tooth and this is why it wont quite time rite. Is it possible for the motor to run like this? Would this ake motor run hot?:blink:

[datzenmike]

Yes it would.

 

Set at TDC compression and check the timing chain position. The stretch indicator should be just to the left of the Vee notch. It may have been placed in the #1 hole and the cam is at least 4 degrees retarded. If it's out one tooth and will be almost 10 degrees retarded. A retarded cam has late opening exhaust valves which keeps the heat (exhaust) in longer than necessary for transferring power to the piston.

[DatDoug]

Thanks Mike:D

[pl521sss]

Thanks Mike:D

 

 

Go to this link and watch Hainz documented video on how not to F up your engine timing. Very informative

It will save you from destroying your engine.

 

http://www.guba.com/watch/3000024223?duration_step=0&fields=23&filter_tiny=0&pp=40&query=hainz&sb=10&set=-1&sf=0&size_step=0&o=0&sample=1208924580:676bcae855789e3c7e33a516b0060b0ba59f9ab5

[DatDoug]

Go to this link and watch Hainz documented video on how not to F up your engine timing. Very informative

It will save you from destroying your engine.

 

http://www.guba.com/watch/3000024223?duration_step=0&fields=23&filter_tiny=0&pp=40&query=hainz&sb=10&set=-1&sf=0&size_step=0&o=0&sample=1208924580:676bcae855789e3c7e33a516b0060b0ba59f9ab5

 

Thanks but I already know how to time my motor. I am just trying to figure out what the F&%$ the P.O. has done with this thing!:blink:

[datsunon40s]

ready to sell that thing yet??

[banzai510(hainz)]

yeah try to see of off a link.

then you know how to put the spindal in aready at 11.28 and make sure the rotor is pointing at #1 in the middle of the timming plate.

 

all other option is make sure the lower hose is not collaping when motor is reved up. Intake is tight and all vacuum is there,carb spacer not cracked or anything making a lean condition.

 

try another rad cap( i seen this work) or a 160 deg 54mm stat. 54mm is the size as alot of auto store dont carry lower than 180 deg sometimes.

[DatDoug]

Well I pulled the valve cover and set her @ TDC and the v notch was to the RIGHT of the dash and the #1 hole on the sprocket was lined up between the outside chains which told me it was of a toof and needed to be turned counter.

 

So, I pushed a garden hose folded in half down into the timing chain to release tension (a trick Ray taught me) and pulled the sprocket off and turned it counter 1 toothe and she is all lined up!:D

 

I am taking a lunch break and then I will put her back together and....Varoom!

 

Thanks for all your input!:D

[datzenmike]

To be clear... the Vee should be just to the right of the etched line or to put it the other way, the etched line should be just to the left of the Vee. Check that the cam dowel is in the #2 hole on the sprocket (factory setting) If chain has stretched and the etched line isn't just to the left of the Vee then move the sprocket to the #3 dowel hole. The #1 hole is not used.

[THECHRISTIAN]

I had a similar problem wth my L18. Come to find out it was running way lean and the vaccum line from the carb to the distributer was at the wrong vacc port and so it was always at full advance. I changed the vacc port on the carburator drilled out the jet on the Weber and its absolutly amazing how much better it ran. If you have a vaccum gauge check it out, it sounds as though you have it figured out. Probably totally different situations.

[banzai510(hainz)]

datzen mike

I notice that its pretty much right on(the V notch) with the L16/18 ansd just a cunt hair to the right on L20s.

 

remember the L20s was set at the factory on #2 for emissions.

But you can use all 3 settings.

[sdsurf]

Which is best? I have watched hainz's video and want to get it right

 

#1

#2

#3

?????

 

what is the difference?

[banzai510(hainz)]

if you have new stuff and head isnt overly milled you can put it on #1 w L16/L18

 

put on #2 on L20s but #1 isnt going to hurt.

 

1 =O deg

2 = 4 deg adv

3 = 8 deg advanced

 

also when using a higher # it will bring power on sooner.

 

It is also used for chain stretch on older motors. If you had it on #1 then the V notch isnt lighed up , then u up the # on the cam sprocket to #2 as a example.

 

 

A tru professional will time his cam using a degree wheel and pick the best # avail or even use

 

NEW MOTOR

I would set it to #1 if everthing new on a L16/18 stock cam.

L20 I would ask your self you want power later or sooner. So pick between 1 and 2 and if you drive a stump puller maybe pick #3