Few more 411 questions

[smelt240]

First,was there a 411 1600,or were they all SSS cars? Mine has the dual carb R16,but looks to have never had the SSS emblems on the upper quarters,and my grille has a "1600" emblem where others Ive seen have the SSS.It is an RL411 by the vin,sold to me as an SSS car.. Not a big deal,just wondering.Id hate to put the wrong emblems on it. Just ask my fake STI,my Nova SS clone....

 

Edit: Next. What is the best way to remove the A arms to get at the front springs? Unbolt the ball joint at the spindle,or remove the 3 smaller bolts that seem to hold the ball joint on the control arm and just leave the joint ataached to the spindle?

 

Next. Are there any suspension bushing kits available,or do I need to piece a kit together? I started pulling my front end apart to lower the car,and I havent found a good bushing yet.

 

Next again. Carb rebuild kits for the SU's. Do they exist? Mine has a new leak,looks almost like a bleeder on the bottom of the rearmost carb. It pisses out gas like its free while running,and drips for 5 minutes after shutoff. I guess it doesnt care that my shop is heated with a woodstove.Or that the exhaust is located right under said leak.

 

Last. I am losing my brake fluid. I cant find any leaks at the wheels. Master cylinder leaking into the firewall possibly? Im starting to think this car doesnt care about my safety!

 

Thanks for any help!

[MikeRL411]

First,was there a 411 1600,or were they all SSS cars? Mine has the dual carb R16,but looks to have never had the emblems on the upper quarters,and my grille has a "1600" emblem where others Ive seen have the SSS.It is an RL411 by the vin.. Not a big deal,just wondering.Id hate to put the wrong emblems on it. Just ask my fake STI....

 

Next. Are there any suspension bushing kits available,or do I need to piece a kit together? I started pulling my front end apart to lower the car,and I havent found a good bushing yet.

 

Next again. Carb rebuild kits for the SU's. Do they exist? Mine has a new leak,looks almost like a bleeder on the bottom of the rearmost carb. It pisses out gas like its free while running,and drips for 5 minutes after shutoff. I guess it doesnt care that my shop is heated with a woodstove.Or that the exhaust is located right under said leak.

 

Last. I am losing my brake fluid. I cant find any leaks at the wheels. Master cylinder leaking into the firewall possibly? Im starting to think this car doesnt care about my safety!

 

Thanks for any help!

 

The first 411 was an upgrade to the P410 and export PL410. It cleaned up the fussy Pinin Farina body lines and made small improvements, especially to the trunk lid. The RL411 was developed to legalize 411 with modified roadster engines for Production Sedan Road Racing [i have talked to the Datsun USA team mechanic who was in charge of this development]. All RL411 are Super Sport Sedans, derived from the Japanese nomenclature "Sport Sedan" and "Sport Wagon" to denote the J13 engine with dual Hitachi SU Carburators. "P" changes to "R" for the type R 1600CC engine.

The basic RL411 has the "1600" badges with no "SSS" emblems. Most were sold for conversion to road racing, all racing upgrade accessories were available over the counter at the dealers parts counter [had to be or not legal for sanctioned racing] especially the optional 4 speed transmission gear sets. I suspect that the "SSS" C pillar, grill and trunk emblems were added to allow the dealers to charge more, a nod to the JDM Sport Sedan Deluxe designation.

I bought my RL411 new for $1700, and is has only the "1600" type emblems like your car. It's genuine and in the proper "as sold" condition.

[Pedro]

Does that model get the front disc brakes as well?

[MikeRL411]

Does that model get the front disc brakes as well?

Of course! Once you put a 96 Horse Power engine in a car that small you must have at the minimum front disc brakes. The Datsun USA factory race team insisted on a version of the upcoming 510 disc brakes [Akebono Lockheed version] as an integral part of the modification. The rear brakes are substantual enough by themselves. If you set the handbrake, you will not move when you put your transmission into reverse!

[smelt240]

Mike,you should write a book on these cars! Now with all the talk of brakes,I wonder what rear discs could be swapped onto this thing...My brakes were really good until the great disappearing brake fluid mystery. Im about to go get the stove going,its right around 3 degrees out there right now. Hopefully Ill get the front springs out today,I bought some roadster springs a while back,so I dont have to modify my factory ones. I REALLY like the looks of that wagon with the removed leafs,and 3 coils cut out! Cant tuck 15x8 reverse mesh SSR's then though...

[MikeRL411]

As to the brake fluid leakage, check the matting under the driver's side floor mat. When the brake master cylinder starts its slow leak around the rear seal the fluid migrates to the firewall inside the cabin, runs down the firewall and soaks into the matting. I took an older previously replaced master cylinder [never throw any parts away] to my dealer and he arranged to have it rebuilt, stamped with the "R" for rebuilt and came with a Nissan parts warranty.

 

The other possibility is a slow leak around the upper seal of the brake light switch on the fire wall behind the engine. Rock Auto has a replacement unit that has a solid brass body, not a pressed steel with brazed on threaded section. The brazed thread section has a bad habit of having excess braze around the body which will not let the switch seal against the "manifold" that proportions the brake fluid. The solid brass unit seals perfectly, but requires a one inch open end wrench to fasten. One inch sockets and the "standard" brake light socket will not fit the sharp corners of the solid brass body. It is also made in Japan, not some other unknown country.

[smelt240]

As to the brake fluid leakage, check the matting under the driver's side floor mat. When the brake master cylinder starts its slow leak around the rear seal the fluid migrates to the firewall inside the cabin, runs down the firewall and soaks into the matting. I took an older previously replaced master cylinder [never throw any parts away] to my dealer and he arranged to have it rebuilt, stamped with the "R" for rebuilt and came with a Nissan parts warranty.

 

The other possibility is a slow leak around the upper seal of the brake light switch on the fire wall behind the engine. Rock Auto has a replacement unit that has a solid brass body, not a pressed steel with brazed on threaded section. The brazed thread section has a bad habit of having excess braze around the body which will not let the switch seal against the "manifold" that proportions the brake fluid. The solid brass unit seals perfectly, but requires a one inch open end wrench to fasten. One inch sockets and the "standard" brake light socket will not fit the sharp corners of the solid brass body. It is also made in Japan, not some other unknown country.

 

OK,I think its the cylinder itself,the mat does seem to have been wet with something other than wet boots,hard to tell today,as cold as it is,I can only get 40 degrees in the shop...I think just to be safe,and while its going to be all apart anyway,Ill replace both.

 

I have another question for you as well,Mike. Does your roof seem to be very "flimsy"? I seem to have the orig headliner,but my roof has a few old wrinkles and small creases. If I give the slightest push,I can dent it in. I know the sheet metal isnt very thick,but this seems a LOT weaker than my 510's roofs. I guess Im not sure how I would go about removing the dents,other than adding some support to the roof panel. Im really scared of ruining my headliner if I take it out to work on the roof. Right now,its in about 90% condition. Luckily I have about 4 months til I can even think about driving the car,now that the snow has arrived. I hope to only need paint at that time. thanks again

 

One more. Does your car have a wood steering wheel? Mine looks VERY original,Im missing the center horn button,but it has 3 long horn buttons on the spokes. Seems to be a really good quality hardwood wheel. Wish I had the center button...

[MikeRL411]

1- My roof is quite firm. I suspect that the wrinkles and creases are signs of someone using [improperly] a strap-on roof luggage rack and then overloading it. Maybe one of those "Paintless dent removal" places could pull the dents and smooth out the creases.

2- I have the original black Bakelite steering wheel with the half moon horn ring.

[ggzilla]

RL411 are Super Sport Sedans

 

Yes, the 'R' means the 1600 engine. R411 is 1600 version, P411 was the 1300. RL411 is the LHD version, not necessarily export as LHD were produced for the Japan market too (for use in Okinawa).

 

The R411 was badged as SSS (Super Sport Sedan) in 4-dr and in Japan a 2-dr (R411R).

 

In Japan there was also an SS version (Sport Sedan) with a twin carb 1300 in 2-dr and 4-dr versions. They were Deluxe models with the P engine (J13) DP411MTK and DP411RTK. T for Twin.

 

Yes, the 411 was a upgrade to the 410. In Nissan literature they refer to this as a "minor change", but in the case of the 411 it was fairly definitive (not simply a new grille and option engine like most minor changes). 410=1200c, P410=1300cc. The "P" is not the model per se but indicates the engine option.

[MikeRL411]

Yes, the 'R' means the 1600 engine. R411 is 1600 version, P411 was the 1300. RL411 is the LHD version, not necessarily export as LHD were produced for the Japan market too (for use in Okinawa).

 

The R411 was badged as SSS (Super Sport Sedan) in 4-dr and in Japan a 2-dr (R411R).

 

In Japan there was also an SS version (Sport Sedan) with a twin carb 1300 in 2-dr and 4-dr versions. They were Deluxe models with the P engine (J13) DP411MTK and DP411RTK. T for Twin.

 

Yes, the 411 was a upgrade to the 410. In Nissan literature they refer to this as a "minor change", but in the case of the 411 it was fairly definitive (not simply a new grille and option engine like most minor changes). 410=1200c, P410=1300cc. The "P" is not the model per se but indicates the engine option.

 

Actually the "T" means Manual Transmission as in "RL411UTK", Automatic transmission cars were "RL411UAK". The "K",not the "T", means equipped with Hitachi "SU" type carbs. The "U" denotes USA and Canada spec.

[ggzilla]

Yep, you are correct.

 

Love the 411s!

[smelt240]

As soon as I get my laptop back (It got a nice new windows 7 only virus),Ill post some pics of my steering wheel.It doesnt look anything like yours. But it looks to be a factory part. 3 spokes,each with a rectangular button connected to the center horn button,which is missing. Hardwood rim. Factory option? Or maybe I have the super rare JDM Skyline/Nismo GT/RS/SS/LX LMNOP wheel that is worth millions of dollars? Probably not on the last part. Youll have to excuse me,Ive been at work for almost 24 hours now,driving a plow truck in circles on a 13 mile stretch of road(should have just drove to Florida...)

 

Id be interested to find a horn button for the wheel,if anyone has one,or even knows what kind of wheel I have,Id love to know..thanks

[ggzilla]

yes, we'll be glad to help identify the photo of the steering wheel.