Another 620 5 speed swap

[K_trip]

I've checked older posts, and I think I have a good idea,

but want to post another 5 speed swap - just to be sure.

I have a 1974 620 w/ 4speed

I found a 78 donor w/ 5speed

Parts to grab off of it ...

* 5 speed gear box w/ shifter

* driveline

 

Don't need (re-use from my truck)...

* flywheel, clutch, throw-out, slave cyl.

* cross-member

* cab floor access cover (around shifter)

 

DO I HAVE ALL OF THIS CORRECT?

I want to get all the parts for the swap off this truck.

Thanks in advance!

[datzenmike]

I've checked older posts, and I think I have a good idea,

but want to post another 5 speed swap - just to be sure.

I have a 1974 620 w/ 4speed

I found a 78 donor w/ 5speed

Parts to grab off of it ...

* 5 speed gear box w/ shifter

* driveline

 

Don't need (re-use from my truck)...

* flywheel, clutch, throw-out, slave cyl.

* cross-member

* cab floor access cover (around shifter)

 

DO I HAVE ALL OF THIS CORRECT?

I want to get all the parts for the swap off this truck.

Thanks in advance!

 

You should only need the transmission and not the drive line. The 4 and 5 speeds are the same length. The 4 speed shifter, slave, clutch arm, boot, release bearing collar can all be reused (get a new bearing)

 

Be sure to pack the new bearing with grease. They come dry so you can use grease of your choice. Fill the cavity inside the collar, put a dab of grease on both ends of the slave push rod, clutch arm pivot ball and fork contact areas.

[Bleach]

hey Mike, didn't the 4-speed through 1977 have a short tail? Then in 1978+ the 4 and 5 speeds were both long tail versions.

I think he needs the driveshaft.

 

Also, the front half of the driveshaft was longer on the longbed/kingcab trucks so he'll need to grab the driveshaft from the 1978 truck only if it is a standard cab short bed.

[datzenmike]

The early F4W63 (pretty much the same as the short 510 goon 4 speed) was replaced with the F4W71B in '74 when it got the L18 motor. The 4 speed was used through all years of 620 with the FS5W71B 5 speed an option from '77 on. Both were long tail and 31.5" in length.

 

I briefly had a '75 4 speed and yup it was 31.5" long.

 

Someone else's L18 '75 620 4 speed.

 

 

Yes this is a short L 5 speed but it must have been made from an L bell on a short 720 transmission. They were never made for the L series motors.

 

As to the drive shaft. I believe that the carrier bearing is located in the same position on the frame on standard and long wheelbase trucks. The additional frame length is just ahead of the rear axle and the rear half of the two piece drive shaft is longer or shorter.

[datsunaholic]

Only 72-73 used the short trans. The 74-80 4-speeds were identical 71B longtails. I swapped 5-speeds into a '75, a '76, and a '78 and the 4-speeds that came out were identical. Plus I pulled the drivetrain from a wrecked '74 and it also had the same 4-speed. My Mom's '73, OTOH, has the short 63-series, identical to the '68-73 510 trans.

 

However it's always possible someone swapped in the shorter trans in a later truck... most common way to tell is look underneath. Big square plate with a drain plug in the middle? Probably (but not 100% certain) it's a short-tail 4-speed. Someone swapped a shorttail dogleg into my '74, for instance, but doglegs don't have the plate. But having reverse up to the left is a clue, and longtail doglegs are extremely rare.

 

Also, it's not the front section that's different on long wheelbase trucks vs short. It's the rear section. The carrier bearing was always in the same location relative to the front of the frame. I have several different rear driveshafts and there's around a foot difference between the LWB and SWB.

[Jimmyray73]

I've checked older posts, and I think I have a good idea,

but want to post another 5 speed swap - just to be sure.

I have a 1974 620 w/ 4speed

I found a 78 donor w/ 5speed

Parts to grab off of it ...

* 5 speed gear box w/ shifter

* driveline

 

Don't need (re-use from my truck)...

* flywheel, clutch, throw-out, slave cyl.

* cross-member

* cab floor access cover (around shifter)

 

DO I HAVE ALL OF THIS CORRECT?

I want to get all the parts for the swap off this truck.

Thanks in advance!

 

Lots of good technical info in those replies, but my advice is grab all that you can. Never hurts to have extra parts in case you bork something, and if you really don't need it you can always use it as trade-bait.

[K_trip]

You should only need the transmission and not the drive line. The 4 and 5 speeds are the same length. The 4 speed shifter, slave, clutch arm, boot, release bearing collar can all be reused (get a new bearing)

 

Be sure to pack the new bearing with grease. They come dry so you can use grease of your choice. Fill the cavity inside the collar, put a dab of grease on both ends of the slave push rod, clutch arm pivot ball and fork contact areas.

Awesome ... You 'da man !!!

Lots of good technical info in those replies, but my advice is grab all that you can. Never hurts to have extra parts in case you bork something, and if you really don't need it you can always use it as trade-bait.

Good point, but since I will be haggling ... fewer parts makes for a cheaper package deal.

[DOnatello]

do yourself a favor and DONT re use the clutch. I have a new sachs clutch I will sell you for dirt cheap before I let you use an old one.

[K_trip]

I hear ya ... I ain't that cheap.

I picked up brackets for disc brakes from BEEBANI, and scored a nice pair of used 300zx calipers plus a very nice 280zx master.

I am rebuilding those used items. For everything else; brake lines, rotors, pads, and rear calipers ... I am going with new parts.

After all, we're talking brakes here. Not only do I want modern braking performance, I want to count on them working for a while.

When I get around to the 5 speed, I'll resurface my old flywheel. I'll also get a new clutch. and throw-out bearing (pressure plate?) .

No point in tearing it all apart and not replace those items. Something about reinstalling old worn out parts, always causes grief.

 

Thanks again for all the information and advise!

[datzenmike]

One other often overlooked item is the pilot bushing. These are Nissan ones and are under $5 so no excuse.

 

There are many ways to remove them such as filling with grease or soft soap and driving a snug wooden dowel in and hydraulically pumping it out. Then there is a tool the screws in and another with a slide hammer...... I haven't the patience for this and just slit them lengthwise in 2-3 places with a 6" chisel and pull the pieces out. Don't worry about scratching the inside of the bore, well don't gouge it, but a scratch is nothing. The pilot bushing is soft and will easily tap into place with a block of wood. I don't advise greasing them. (some FSMs say to, others say not needed) What I do know is these bushings are sintered bronze, which is a bronze powder hydraulically pressed into shape, heat treated, and because it's porous, soaked in oil and lubricated for life. I find that grease collects friction material from the clutch and wears them out.

 

.