jaime.g Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Hey all, I haven't made much movement with my b210 sr swap due to school and work, but in the meantime I want to at least get the car driving around so I can install larger breaks and make sure everything that I need working works well before I add power. Especially considering that when the car did run, it would sometimes have trouble stopping the a14. I wanted to ask you all for any pointers on how to verify my mechanical fuel pump is actually working as I've only ever dealt with efi fuel pumps in the past. Such as, do I simply remove one hose and have someone crank the motor over and feel for vacuum? I've been meaning to try this out but I've put it off as when I last worked on my car, no one was around to assist. Here is what I've done so far, just in case: -My father had replaced the pump about 3 years ago, but the car never ran after replacement. -Cleaned rusted out tank and filled with 2 gallons (should I add more gas?) -fuel lines clear(bike pump verified) -Motor runs with starting fluid (have got it started on starting fluid many times to try and get the pump to bring in fuel to itself) -no trace of fuel in either lines going to pump before and after tank got cleaned. Thanks! Jaime Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I Would Get A Small Bottle And Fill It With Gas Set Aside From Car And Run A Gas Line From Bottle To Pump Remove Other Hose And Crank Motor Look For Gas Flying Out Also Do You Have One Of These In The Motor?? Pictured In The Middle: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 make sure intake hose is tight as it could suck up air. cranking for a few revs should get the pump to start sucking up gas. If not ran in a while mite take longer to get gas to suck up. Or pull out pump and use your hand to pump it as said in above statment. side note. I had a used spare under my seat and swear it was good. Went to install it and it didnt work So I dont know if one can dry out and crank(im only guessing) get a high pressure hose and put it in the input side of gas line and see if you hear air come out in the tank end. then you know the line is clean. By chanve there isnt a return line and you hot it hooked up backwards? Quote Link to comment
e's 210 Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Hey Brother, check to see if the fuel filter is getting gas drawn into it ! If it is then the pump is working . Check and see if you have a fuel shut off valve on the carb, if this is not working the car will not start ! Check the return line back to the tank make sure it is clear ! sometimes you can blow air back into the carb thru the inlet line and clear debris, if you have a sight glass in the front of the carb see how much gas is present, if none then the fuel shut off valve is probably not working ,remove the valve pull the pin out of the end re- install and see what you get ,don't loose the pin ! good luck ! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 e210 have a fuel shut off valve on the carb, if this is not working the car will not start ! it will start if you pump the pedal alot as the accel pump on carb will dump fueel in the carb. Just wont idel if the selinoid is unpluuged(idle jet) Quote Link to comment
e's 210 Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Good to know ,one day the wire broke off on mine, and on the side of the road did everything you said would not start! found a small piece of guitar string wrapped the wire around the ball end ,and shoved the other end into the valve ,the car fired up went to work soldered the the connection been driving ever since ! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 how to verify my mechanical fuel pump is actually working Perform the two factory fuel pump tests! See http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Fuel_pump_pressure_test Quote Link to comment
Dirk Diggler Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I'm not too see about the A engines, but on my L24, if I remember correctly, the #1 piston has to be at TDC on the compression stroke before installing the new pump. I didn't do this, I stuck my finger in the fuel pump hole and felt for the cam lobe. The fuel pump arm has to rest on top of the lobe, not under it. Again, not sure about the A series, but its worth a shot. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted December 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 Thanks for all the replies, guys! I thought no one had replied back to me as I didn't get any e-mail notifications. I'll adjust my forum settings accordingly. I did however get to work on trying to figure out what is up with the pump. What I did since last visit: 1. Added at least 5 more gallons to the tank (I started off with just under 2) 2. Started engine up with carb cleaner and eventually started to see fuel come up into the fuel filter (low level with tons of air bubbles continuously coming through that did not go away no matter how long I kept her running off of the spray) 3. Fixed leaks by replacing some hose clamps (no more bubbles) 4. Took off bottom portion of air cleaner housing and capped a bunch of vacuum lines that weren't connected to anything. Also capped the vacuum line on the distributor (vacuum advance?) 5. I purchased a vacuum tester/bleeder and hooked that up to the pump and verified it is producing vacuum. 6. Hooked up bleeder to the line coming out the fuel filter to get plenty of fuel in the filter. 7. Confirmed that fuel is now getting up to the carb 8. At this point I flooded the engine out with carb cleaner and probably fuel as well. Spark plugs keep getting soaked after cleaning them up a few times. I took the plugs out and have let the car sit for a few days already but haven't had a chance to work on it since. Hopefully with fuel to the carb now and the cylinders dry it should start right up. Below are my responses to you all's input/questions/concerns: "Also Do You Have One Of These In The Motor??" I'm not sure what that is in the picture or if I've seen it. Where is that item normally found in the motor and what is its purpose? "make sure intake hose is tight as it could suck up air." I believe it wasn't in the first place as I later saw bubbles coming up when some fuel finally got to the filter. "By chanve there isnt a return line and you hot it hooked up backwards?" I'm positive that this is not the case. "Check and see if you have a fuel shut off valve on the carb, if this is not working the car will not start !" I'll start looking into this. I did see a red wire going to the carb on the front of the motor that is very fraile and about to break off. I suppose this maybe what you're referring to. "Check the return line back to the tank make sure it is clear ! " I've checked this before installing the cleaned out tank and both lines were clear. "..if you have a sight glass in the front of the carb see how much gas is present, if none then the fuel shut off valve is probably not working ,remove the valve pull the pin out of the end re- install and see what you get ,don't loose the pin ! good luck ! " The carb that is on the car does not have a glass window for me to check the fuel level in the carb :( Just a perforation where the window should be. "Perform the two factory fuel pump tests! See http://datsun1200.co...p_pressure_test " I saw this article beforehand, but I'm not able to do it as the test requires the engine to stay running. "I'm not too see about the A engines, but on my L24, if I remember correctly, the #1 piston has to be at TDC on the compression stroke before installing the new pump. " Great point! I was not the one who replaced the fuel pump, so I'll need to probably re-install the pump with #1 TDC just to be sure it is installed properly. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 A-series pumps can be installed with engine rotated to any spot. If fuel is getting to the carb, the fuel pump is good enough. The engine will idle for 30 seconds with the pump disconnected. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted December 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 After Letting the engine deflood for several days, it's alive! Only thing is that it immediately idles really high and I also noticed the oil pressure light stayed on. Well it's progress at least. Thanks for all the help guys. 1 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Make sure your oil pump is working and the connection to the oil pressure sending unit is working. An easy way to tell is take the oil filler cap off with it running, see if you get some oil spray coming out of it. If not, shut it off and replace the oil pump! Quote Link to comment
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