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1980 Datsun 510 Wont stay started


Nell

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I'm writing this from phone so I'll do my best to explain. I'm a new Datsun owner, I have a 1980 Datsun 510, all stock with 82,xxx miles. I was driving it for about 3 weeks and then I had trouble getting it stared then eventually I couldnt get to idle very long. I'm not to familiar with cars this old. I had changed fuel filter and I had also tested fuel pump, gas squirts from hose when cranked. I sprayed carb cleaner on the carburetor, still nothing, then I even tried adjust the idle speed screw? And fuel mixture screw? It was working for about a day then same problem occurred . Then I found a vacuum hose from distributor that split one way into the carb and the other just appears to go no where , looks like it broke from something. I'm thinking leak? So I plugged that hole and it started up and seemed slightly better , it idles but not smooth. The moment the hose is unplugged i, the car stalls . I'm no mech , but I'm handy with tools , I would appreciate all the help I can so can get my Datsun running smooth again

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Welcome to the forum..... :-)

 

First off, it sounds like you are trouble shooting this yourself just fine. Do you have a specific question you are looking to answer? Take a gander at what others have posted related to a specific issue by using the search function. That will bring up threads related to what you are trying to resolve.

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Look under the hood for the emissions label. Does it have the vacuum hoses displayed? If so try finding them and follow looking for other splits or missing ones.

The vacuum line to the distributor shouldn't have any vacuum at idle... makes me think that someone has mistakenly hooked it to manifold vacuum and then had to adjust the timing back. Now when vacuum is removed it stalls.

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Look under the hood for the emissions label. Does it have the vacuum hoses displayed? If so try finding them and follow looking for other splits or missing ones.

 

 

I can't get it to run , where does this vacuum line go

 

You said you had it running..although not well in your original post. Follow Mike's advice and look for the vacuum diagram that is usually somewhere under your hood. If not, then try looking for a diagram online or even purchase a service manual if you cannot find one online.

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We all have to start somewhere. ;)

 

 

 

 

In invaluable tool for diagnosing is being able to post on line pictures. If you don't have a FREE Photobucket account, get one and follow the info. I've seen pictures show something totally different from what the owner thought he had. Very helpful to be there and see what he sees.

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There is a line that goes from distributor and the splits to carb and an open line, but once the open line is plugged it runs a bit better. It seems float seems to high too . I'll try to take a pic if it better helps .....

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An open line is generally a huge vacuum leak, so if it's not hooked up it better be plugged. It's probably meant to go to the vacuum switch and then to the EGR, but I'd have to get my Z20S manual out and be sure. It could go to the carbon canister too, I just can't recall. Z20S engines have a medusa's-head mess of vacuum lines, and they're really twitchy when they aren't connected properly. My near-identical car is in storage 2 counties and 100 miles away so I can't just go look.

 

What I can say is the idle speed and idle mixture screws don't do anything when it's not idling. If it's running on the primary (throttle cracked open) the idle circuit gets "washed out" by the air going through the mains.

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Sorry let me try again

 

Picture

 

http://i1216.photobu...ll/a9e491c6.jpg

 

a9e491c6.jpg

 

That line probably goes to the thermal vacuum valve mounted to the front of the carb on the intake. The thermal vacuum valve will not allow vacuum to the EGR or the distributor until the motor warms up. The valve is actually a small air bleed that lowers the vacuum signal. When the valve closes the bleed is stopped and full vacuum is passed on.

 

Seal it and it will work just fine.

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That line probably goes to the thermal vacuum valve mounted to the front of the carb on the intake. The thermal vacuum valve will not allow vacuum to the EGR or the distributor until the motor warms up. The valve is actually a small air bleed that lowers the vacuum signal. When the valve closes the bleed is stopped and full vacuum is passed on.

 

Seal it and it will work just fine.

 

 

Where does the end I'm holding go to, the edge is jagged so my guess is that it tore from something, I don't want to seal it if it has a specific purpose

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Read my post. It's just an emissions thing. Having the vacuum advance on when the motor is cold actually pollutes slightly more. Nissan designed a thermal valve which prevents vacuum advance until the motor warms up. Plugging that hose will simply eliminate the valve and give vacuum advance at all times.

 

It should look similar to this one. The vacuum advance goes on the bottom. The next one up goes to the EGR valve, the top one to the air filter. These things are easily broken

 

Z24vacuumlines016Large.jpg

 

.

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Plugged it still no idle , do after hours of inspection I realized the choke wouldn't idle unless the choke was close so then I brought my attention to the automatic choke and there it was . The power wire slipped out of its connector . Fixed that and the it fired right up and the I just adjusted the carburetor, took it for a hour test drive. I think I'm out of the clear

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