Modular Sockets for Headlamp Relays

[Ron1200]

My headlight fuse blows when I use the high beams on the 620. I'm going to do the 'relay' upgrade...

 

I read a post here on the forums where someone posted some info on a modular relay socket that was from a Nissan vehicle. I've been searching all evening and can't locate that post. Anyone remember it ?

[ggzilla]

You should find and fix the short first. Adding the relay may not do that, because you will still use the original signal wiring even with the relay.

 

Nissan has used half a dozen different sockets for similar looking relays. So you want to get a relay and socket matched set. Have you picked out your relays yet?

 

At Pick-N-Pull they are $2 each, you can snip a bit of the wiring with it. The 1980s vehicles had separate sockets.

[yello620]

Ron, there is a few pictures of these modular sockets from Nissans in my build thread(in signature). Not sure what page they are on though.

They are kind of proud of these at the JY too, so take advantage of the half price sale coming this weekend(thanksgiving). And they like to charge extra separately for the relay boxes and the relays. Also snap a couple of relay boxes together, take advantage of the modular design. They still only charge you for one relay box when you snap two together. :D Also consider "building" yourself a relay box while in the yard. Take the parts from several boxes so that you get lots of wiring of larger wires to splice into. Some of the nissan wires are really small.

 

 

But, as mentioned, you do need to find the short in the system also, probably should happen first.

[Ron1200]

Good Advise! Thanks. I don't think I have a short. The fuse gets hot and eventually blows. It doesn't go instantly. I cleaned the brass contacts on the fuze box and it's not getting as hot now. Still not pleased with the light output. I expect they are not getting full voltage.

One odd thing... I found that the headlight fuse is not being used. :blink: This is the top left fuze (as indicated on the cover). I removed each fuse in sequence and nothing happened when I removed it. I found the the headlights run off the middle right fuze (Radio, lighter fuze).

 

Jason... That was exactly what I was looking for! It's a nice clean installation. I found it on page 5 btw. Thx

Ron

[yello620]

One odd thing... I found that the headlight fuse is not being used. :blink: This is the top left fuze (as indicated on the cover). I removed each fuse in sequence and nothing happened when I removed it. I found the the headlights run off the middle right fuze (Radio, lighter fuze).

 

Ron

 

 

Different years had the headlight fuse in different locations in the fuse box. Nothing says that the cover is correct to that truck. The headlight power wire should have a large red(w /stripe?) wire on it.

 

The only way to install these is to splice into the factory harness. When i did mine, i made it so that i only had one splice from the output of the relay to the headlight. Then i cut a spare factory harness to get a lenght of wire that was color matched to stock to make up the extra lenght, and i put that piece of wire(and extra splice) between the switch and the relay. And since it is only a low power relay trigger now, the extra splice should not matter on this side of the relay.

 

Everything i installed got soldered in place too, no butt connectors anywhere.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Ron if your using a H4 lights/BULBS on stock wiring I think that will be the proplem.

 

Put the stock lamps back in there.If they are stock lamps which side of fuse is popping. Left /right

maybe bad lamp or pull the plugg and see if still pops fuse. Pull both plugs and still pops then wire is shorting out

 

clean fuse connections.

 

 

cig light fuse will be called the COMMON circut. Dome lamp door buzzer ect where 12volts will be ON all the time.

as 510s the 12volts are at all the lamp sockets in the OFF position. it puts a ground on a tab to make them turn ON

[yello620]

as 510s the 12volts are at all the lamp sockets in the OFF position. it puts a ground on a tab to make them turn ON

 

620's are not wired like a 510, on the 620, the power goes through the fuse, switch, signal stalk, hi-lo relay, then to the lights. Do not confuse the hi-lo relay with a relay that takes the power off of the switch/fuse/signal stalk.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Yel620 Ill just have to trust you on this as I dont have a 620 but most JAPS use a switchable ground lighting system. the turn signal stalk is just a copper tab the grounds the steering wheel to put a gound on the relay to energize it and puts a Main ground on the lights.

 

low = pull light switch ground completes thru the realy but relay is just a pass thru and not energized

 

Hit HIghbeam on turn sig stalk = put a ground on relay to energize the coil thus putting a Main ground to both sets of lights/elements

[yello620]

Yel620 Ill just have to trust you on this as I dont have a 620 but most JAPS use a switchable ground lighting system. the turn signal stalk is just a copper tab the grounds the steering wheel to put a gound on the relay to energize it and puts a Main ground on the lights.

 

low = pull light switch ground completes thru the realy but relay is just a pass thru and not energized

 

Hit HIghbeam on turn sig stalk = put a ground on relay to energize the coil thus putting a Main ground to both sets of lights/elements

 

Feel free to study the wiring diaghrams posted at olddatsun.com :D

[banzai510(hainz)]

your right I dont have a clue on this one.

But think its corrossion or H4 lamps installed(previous onwer or he aint saying he didi this.)

 

 

I see alot of H4s on cars with stock wiring. They say I dont have a proplem. I say OK.

[yello620]

your right I dont have a clue on this one.

But think its corrossion or H4 lamps installed(previous onwer or he aint saying he didi this.)

 

 

I see alot of H4s on cars with stock wiring. They say I dont have a proplem. I say OK.

 

Hainz, agreed there is a deeper problem causing the fuse to blow.

 

I only want to point out that the relays are wired in a little bit different in the 620 vs the 510, still easy and necessary when the H-4's are installed.

[Ron1200]

Ron if your using a H4 lights/BULBS on stock wiring I think that will be the problem.

 

Put the stock lamps back in there. If they are stock lamps which side of fuse is popping. Left /right

maybe bad lamp or pull the plug and see if still pops fuse. Pull both plugs and still pops then wire is shorting out

 

 

These aren't H4... They are the sealed beam halogens. I think these are closer to stock amperage/wattage than H4s. I'm of the opinion that the system is marginal as is and adding the relays and new wiring to the headlights would provide an improvement. At least I could use the high beams without worrying that the fuze might blow. :)

 

As I don't have the original lamps, I would need to buy all 4... I think its a wash between buying new stock lamps and wiring in some relays. Might even be cheaper, if I get the relays and sockets at the local pick-a-part like Yellow620 did.

 

 

your right I dont have a clue on this one.

But think its corrosion or H4 lamps installed(previous owner or he aint saying he did this.)

 

I see alot of H4s on cars with stock wiring. They say I dont have a problem. I say OK.

 

I do think corrosion played a part in my problem. After I cleaned the fuze holders, the fuzes don't get as hot as they used to.

[Ron1200]

Different years had the headlight fuse in different locations in the fuse box. Nothing says that the cover is correct to that truck. The headlight power wire should have a large red(w /stripe?) wire on it.

 

 

Good Point! I can confirm that the large RED wire does power the headlight fuze. My cover is not correct for my fuze box.