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WTB 4.88 3rd member


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Thanks Wayno. I'm not sure how hard these things are to find. It might turn out to be worth the drive. The one (or ones) I need are for the h190 diff.These will be in a iron ten bolt carrier (I believe)

 

l Have a 72 521 that I drag race and the 4.375 leaves me with too much gearbox at the big end. So I would like to try the 4.88 out.

 

The 320 had 4.88s but the pumpkin and side gears are dirrerent, from what I have read. The 68/69 520 is what I need, I'll keep fishing for now, but If you still have them after a bit, I'll gas up the truck and take a drive.

 

Thanks man

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Everything I have back there has a 29 splined stump puller axle, 520-21 pumpkin, I don't like the gearing because i'm pushing 4000+ rpm trying to do the speed limit on the freeway, I beleave one has an aluminum housing though, I could be wrong, there kinda dirty and it is dark. :lol: I really don't remember where I got them anymore, I suspect one came out of my 69 521 that had a J13 in it. I also have a 520 in the project mode that will be getting 411s if not 389s, I am sure that one would have 488s also.

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I did some math today and sounds like something I'd like to try.

 

It looks like I'll be burning some gas in a few weeks. So keep a couple of them dry and warm, and I'll bring you some cash for your 520 project.

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Ive never worn one out, but Ive blown up a few (not datsun though)' Its the shock on the launch that kills them. I hear the h190 diff will stand up to almost 300 ft.lbs.of torque. The spider gears are the first to go, but mine are welded together.

 

Huh... as far as posting pics goes, Im about as techno retarded as they come. I dont have a digital camera, and this is my GF's computer. I dont even know how to post a pic but I'll ask her to help. Im just an old gearhead. Been into Datsuns (and collecting parts) since the mid 80's, Most of my drag racing experience has been with aircooled VW's though.

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Im actually just getting started on the nose. Thats why it looks all rusty and torn apart.The truck looks a hell of a lot better together.

 

The radiator stays with the much stripped down core support and it is still mounted to the frame on those tabs on the front corners. Then I'll bolt the fenders to the core support in the usual way up front, with just a couple per side in the back.No inner fender wells.Hood hinges and is pinned to the core support as well.

 

So to take the nose off

 

Remove hood

 

Drain coolant/disconnect hoses

 

Remove 4 rear fender bolts and 2 big core support bolts

 

Take it all off as 1 piece

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