Doing ball joints tomorrow

[metalmonkey47]

It's gonna be my first time ever touching a set, and I have ZERO knowledge on them.

 

 

Is there any advice you guys can offer? Anything I might need to know? I really don't wanna fuck anything up.

 

 

I already have the ball joint separator, and I'm getting a ball joint press tomorrow.

[Ken_B]

Torque your lugnuts when you put the wheel back on. ;)

 

But in all serousness its fairly straight forward easy job to do, just take your time and you'll be fine.

[ptown green]

I just did mine for the first time and at first I was fucking lost. I got frustrated and gave up because I hadnt asked anyone yet. But If you have that fork looking tool all you need is a big hammer too. Just wedge it as far in with the hammer as you can and and if it doest pop loose from that then put the nut onto the ball joint until it is flush with the top of the threads so you can hit it without fucking up the threads. Then pry on it a little with the fork which is already slammed in there and hit the top of it with the nut on there at the same time. Dont be shy with it fucking slam it

[metalmonkey47]

Thanks for the advice guys! I wanted to make sure it wasn't gonna kill me tomorrow doing it. I may also pull the struts and lower my car a little bit, or just save that for another day. Haven't yet decided.

[ggzilla]

Yes, you can use a pickle fork. Works every time.

 

The FSM says to remove the LCA. But as I remember you might be able to pry down the Lower Control Arm (tranverse link) enough to separate the strut from the knuckle arm, so to you can access the ball joint taper. They pry bar is partly because the anti-swaybar is connected to the LCA and acts like a spring. Chilton says to unbolt the tension rod and swaybar from the LCA.

 

As long as you don't unbolt the strut center bolt on top, there's no danger of the spring flying out.

 

1. Remove two strut-to-knuckle arm bolts

1.1 (maybe) unbolt the tension rod (castor rod) from the LCA

1.2 (maybe) unbolt the swaybar from the LCA

2. Pry LCA down while pulling strut/brake assembly slightly forward

3. One you get them separated, remove the single nut holding the ball joint to knuckle arm

4. Use the big hammer and pickle fork. I used a 12-lb sledge.

5. Undo the four bolts fastening ball joint to LCA

 

But I did this long time ago and it was B110. Might not be able to pull the B310 arm down far enough, but the suspension is virtually identical.

 

Oh and don't tighten the wheel nuts too tight. I've had 210 lugs strip out or get deformed. Only 65 ft. lb. They don't call me "loose nuts" Zilla for nothing.

[ggzilla]

B110 and B310 ball joints

 

 

B110 and B310 LCA with knuckle arm bolted to the ball joint

[metalmonkey47]

Thanks GGzilla. As always, you've gone above and beyond for me

 

I'm starting in a few minuets, and we'll see how it goes!

[zed1]

Autozone has a great tool loaner program:

Borrow both of these:

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Ball-Joint-Separator/_/N-264r

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Tie-Rod-End-Separator/_/N-2655

Keith