can a 32/36 DGV be converted to a DGEV or DGAV?

[dimedriver]

Can an electric choke or automatic choke from one of the EV or AV variants be swapped onto one of the normal DGV carb bodies?

 

Also can the anti diesel solenoid be used with these carb bodies?

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/43914.060.htm

 

My truck does diesel sometimes when its really hot out. But I think I can fix the problem with better gas, cooler plugs and cleaning up the combustion cambers while the head is off.

 

-Dime

[datsunaholic]

Some, but not all DGVs can be converted. Depends on the body. Most DGV bodies don't have the castings machined for the auto choke mount.

 

As for the AD solenoid, I'm not sure. The solenoid goes where the jet cap would be for the primary idle jet, and seats a needle into the jet orifice. They'd have to be exactly the same to work, and from what I've seen the thread size isn't the same for a lot of non-idle cut carb bodies.

 

It would probably be easier to swap with someone who has an electric and wants a manual.

[H5WAGON]

So you are saying the head is off?.....A dirty combustion chamber can be the main cause of dieseling or running rich on the carb? I would clean first, then worry about the carb.

 

I prefer a manual choke....I know when its on or off.

[hobbes_the_cat]

The idle circuit anti diesel solenoid in my weber is different thread and size than the jet in the non solenoid webers that I have so i think you need to get one that had it from the factory. as far as the choke goes I don't know.

[dimedriver]

I have not yet pulled the head off of this engine. It dieseled for the 1st time on Sunday after it got a little warmer than usual. I'm just guessing it has build up in the CC. It currently has a 38/38 on it but I have a pile of 32/36's. I think all of them were manual and had the choke removed for racing. I want the 32/36 for a little more low end torque and control. The truck also doesn't run the greatest with this 38/38. I'm pretty sure its not jetted quite right. the ignition is in pretty good shape though. I have been though it.

 

 

Thanks for the info on the automatic choke stuff.

 

-Dime

[H5WAGON]

The truth comes out...:P Your running a 38/38, I think we all thought you had a 32/36...:huh: as far as the dieseling.

 

From what I have red about the 38/38 It is more for a built motor....cam, head work etc....never ran one, but I have one to try on my Ford powered 2.6.

[Spades]

dieseling is also kind of about timing...does the car ever kick back when you try to start it? it may not, my naps seems to diesel a little when the timing is advanced before I get the kickback symptom...and that is with a 32/36.

 

You do realize that by dropping jet sizes(which will most likely happen when you go to a 32/36 unless someone jetted it for a large motor), you will have to advance the timing even further since the mixture will be more lean than before, and you will end up with even more timing advanced symptoms.

 

you can use a timing light to tell if you are over advanced, or you can tell with a labscope or by ear. I was taught that when the engine is at an idle, every so often you will hear a distinct small pop from the exhaust if the timing is over advanced. it is less like a backfire and more like a very subtle interruption in the exhaust note rhythm at a steady idle. the major symptoms of over advanced timing are pinging under load, dieseling on shut off, and the starter kicking back when you try to start it...the symptoms get worse on hot days and when the car is warm.

[dimedriver]

I checked the total advance with a dial back to zero timing light. I looked up the model number of the distributor in some chart that listed the total mechanical advance. I then reved the engine to above 3krpm and turned the dizzy to achieve that total advance. I checked the advance at idle and it was a little lower than stock for the trucks year but seemed to be working. I think the dizzy was from another year truck.

 

 

I have also not had kick back problems or over heating problems with the truck. Sunday was the 1st time it had ever dieseled while I have owned it.

 

It currently burns oil with the classic off stop light huge puff of smoke that leaking valve seals gives you. I have already purchased new valve seals and some gaskets. Just waiting for a weekend with some time to pull the head off.

 

 

-Dime

[banzai510(hainz)]

later A87s might have a open chamber . This is common and later Hitachis come with a aniti desieling selinoid.

 

so now real reason to take off head. My U67 head had run on Brand new rebuilt.38/38 can be trick under 1500rpm if loaded up on a hill or a load on it. It can stumble on its face. Above that I have no proplem bUT IT IS ON A 521 WHICH HAS A LOW GEAR RATION TO GET ROLLING

[dimedriver]

I think my head is an A87. Will double check soon. I would bet its not a flat top but have not opened yet.

 

What gas do you run with it? I also had really old gas in it last time I ran it. All things to think about.

 

 

-Dime

[banzai510(hainz)]

SUPER 91.

 

87 will have run on everytime.

 

91 with super hot days it still might run on..

 

This is acommon on my L16 with flatops and Open chamber U67 head. matter of fact it had run on with the stock dished pistons.

 

I dont know if its worth the time to to pull head. I would just run some water thru the carb in small amounts and mabye it will clean soem of the carbon out.

 

 

 

ps my 510 with closed chamber head I have no proplems with 87. closed is just better

[dimedriver]

I need to replace the valve seals anyway. It also one cylinder had lower compression than the rest. Maybe head gasket or something else.

 

I've pulled the head off of other L series before with out issue. So no big deal.

 

 

-Dime