brodster Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Alright, I posted something similar months ago, and am still a ways out on starting this project. But here's the deal. I have 3 good working EI matchbox modules from some usable dizzies. Just picked up another one from the JY that is untested. However, I DO NOT WANT TO CUT UP A WORKING MODULE! I would much rather hack up a broken one so I don't take another working one out of the fading Datsun inventory, The purpose, I will spend some time reverse engineering the module for a few reasons: 1. To figure out how to overhaul the thing 2. To build a programmable unit by interfacing it with a microcontroller, etc. 3. Fun for us electrical engineering geeks Here are the pix to make sure we are on the same page: From what I have heard people don't swap in the 280zx module with the ECU port. Although this typically isn't a good thing, it may make an easy access point for a controller. Or even better, may be able to just post instructions on how to use them on the older L-series Dizzies. Also, I do not even have a working 280zx module in my position. If you have one for a decent price, let me know. Thanks for looking. Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 So your looking for a dual plug module? Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 All I know is that if you use this module on the 4 cly EI dizzy the timing will retard up to 20 degrees as the engine revs. How it works is a mystery to me. Somehow the L24 motor's EFI controls it. . Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 brodster, i'm in Eastgate and have a broken one (connector is broken, but it probably still works). You can have it. It is the regular kind, not the retarding kind with the side port. 1 Link to comment
brodster Posted July 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 So your looking for a dual plug module? I am looking for both. The dual plug module may nave some goodies that could help with what I am going to do. All I know is that if you use this module on the 4 cly EI dizzy the timing will retard up to 20 degrees as the engine revs. How it works is a mystery to me. Somehow the L24 motor's EFI controls it. Yeah this is would I have learned. If I can get my hands on one and reverse engineer it, I may be able to figure out why it does this. Or better, it may serve as a good interface for some projects. brodster, i'm in Eastgate and have a broken one (connector is broken, but it probably still works). You can have it. It is the regular kind, not the retarding kind with the side port. Perfect! Next time I am in the area or at the next meetup, I will snag it from you. Thank you Link to comment
Datsun Bob Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 The single plug type came on 79-81 Datsun 280Z cars The dual plug came on the 82-83 280ZX It retards the ignition for emissions ,I am not sure about the Maximas of the same vintage I just know Z cars Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Inside is some integrated circuits and a power transistor encased in gel. You can get a standalone power transistor at Pick-N-Pull from c. 1986 Sentras and Pulsars. They are very expensive to buy new but only $2 there. Get a Factory Service Manual, which has block diagrams of the IGN Module or as Nissan calls it the "IC Ignition Unit". Link to comment
brodster Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Inside is some integrated circuits and a power transistor encased in gel. You can get a standalone power transistor at Pick-N-Pull from c. 1986 Sentras and Pulsars. They are very expensive to buy new but only $2 there. Get a Factory Service Manual, which has block diagrams of the IGN Module or as Nissan calls it the "IC Ignition Unit". Does the factory service manual have the circuit, or just block diagrams? Also I have been trying to download the FSM's from xenons130 but all files are corrupted. I will try to figure it out tomorrow. Edit: Got the service manual to work. Thanks for the info. Link to comment
brodster Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Cool, looks like just a block diagram. Really good information on the functioning of the circuit. Thanks. You had my hopes up that Nissan gave their entire circuit away.:D Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 The single plug type came on 79-81 Datsun 280Z cars The dual plug came on the 82-83 280ZX It retards the ignition for emissions ,I am not sure about the Maximas of the same vintage I just know Z cars Dual plug only on the non turbo zx... they had CAS. Dual plug also on the '82 and up Maxima. Link to comment
brodster Posted July 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 Bump! Still looking for one of those matchboxes with the side port, dead or alive. Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 Bump! Still looking for one of those matchboxes with the side port, dead or alive. Like this???? Link to comment
brodster Posted July 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 ^^^^Yep thats the one. Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 It's yours if you pay postage......cool? 2 Link to comment
brodster Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Still looking for a broken matchbox if anyone has one? Really don't want to cut into a good one. Got a couple of the late model ones that tie into the ECU (thank to Jefe). Thanks for looking! Link to comment
blue72 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 I'm running a dual plugger on my Z right now (E12-93 module). They actually run great, just as well as an E12-80 if you know how to hook 'em up right. ;) Unfortunately, my spare E12-93 is a good unit and will stay in the glovebox for now. I do have a kaput E12-80 if you need it. Link to comment
RedBanner Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 I gots this one out of a 78 620, one electrode is brokeb off the top but its yours if you want I no need, free in the name of science( like I ever charge for shit) 1 Link to comment
brodster Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 I'm running a dual plugger on my Z right now (E12-93 module). They actually run great, just as well as an E12-80 if you know how to hook 'em up right. ;) Unfortunately, my spare E12-93 is a good unit and will stay in the glovebox for now. I do have a kaput E12-80 if you need it. Tell me your secrets So are you saying your Z never had the dual plug capability to begin with, just ran with the single plug? I guess I shouldn't be surprised some of the Z guys already figured out how to remedy the 20 deg retard. Link to comment
brodster Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Well, I found this article on zcar: http://www.zcar.com/...e_862444.0.html Seems there was a little heated debate. Apparently the amount of retard people were throwing around was 8 degrees. From what I had read on MANY websites is that if you left the module disconnected, the ignition would retard 8 degrees. One website claimed that they tried to compensate for this by advancing the base, and they claimed the results were sub-par. Well in the thread above, someone called BS on the info. This info surfaced on it: It seems a bit odd to me that people noticed a 8 deg difference on some modules, but more on that later when I actually dissect one. Link to comment
blue72 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Hmmm, so energizing the I or W post on the module will change timing by 5° then. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. :cool: Link to comment
brodster Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Hmmm, so energizing the I or W post on the module will change timing by 5° then. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Yeah it sounds like there are all sorts of fun possibilities with that the port. More to come. Link to comment
blue72 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 I'm always kind of surprised more people haven't figured this one out. I was able to deduce it a couple years ago when researching the two port modules. I had an E12-80 that died on me, but the only replacement I had on hand was an E12-93 or an E12-92. I swapped in the E12-93 and it ran like crap with only posts B and C hooked up After a little extra wiring I've been running the same E12-93 module on my 240Z since then. About 3000 miles and up to 24 mpg too. Link to comment
brodster Posted August 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 If you don't mind me asking, how did you wire the I and W posts of the module? Link to comment
brodster Posted August 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 I gots this one out of a 78 620, one electrode is brokeb off the top but its yours if you want I no need, free in the name of science( like I ever charge for shit) PM sent Link to comment
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