Rat720 Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 I have afew questions about my 81 720. First, I'm planning on swapping a hardbody 5speed into it in place of the stock 4speed, question is will it bolt up to my z22 and is the clutch the same? Next question is I'm pretty sure my rear main is leaking, so I'm planning to pull the engine and freshen it up, would it be worth the boaring the block 20 or 30 over and spending the 300 for the full rebuild kit with new pistons and all, or should I just pull it and put all new gaskets and clean everything up? Also, my girlfriends 79 620 has a 5speed dogleg tranny, she needs a clutch, what did the dogleg trannys come in so we can find the appropriate clutch? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Wowzers! I have afew questions about my 81 720. First, I'm planning on swapping a hardbody 5speed into it in place of the stock 4speed, question is will it bolt up to my z22 and is the clutch the same? Next question is I'm pretty sure my rear main is leaking, so I'm planning to pull the engine and freshen it up, would it be worth the boaring the block 20 or 30 over and spending the 300 for the full rebuild kit with new pistons and all, or should I just pull it and put all new gaskets and clean everything up? Also, my girlfriends 79 620 has a 5speed dogleg tranny, she needs a clutch, what did the dogleg trannys come in so we can find the appropriate clutch? Thanks in advance I think the D21 KA transmission would bolt up. You don't mention which Hardbody trans you're wanting to bolt in. While the trans is out-replace the rear main seal. Easy. Now, if you're wanting to re do the motor internals, why not put the motor and trans out of that Hardbody into it. Cheaper than a rebore and new parts. If it was mine, I'd reseal it, find an open-chambered L head, and run the shit outta it. Love me an LZ22. And your girlfriends truck...should be the clutch from a 79 620. Not positive. Just thinking logically. Quote Link to comment
Rat720 Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 I thought the dogleg didn't come stock in a 79 620...... And I thought about doing a ka swap but a lot of people do that and I really want to stick with the whole old school nostalgic theme so I wanna stick with an old school engine Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 I thought the dogleg didn't come stock in a 79 620...... And I thought about doing a ka swap but a lot of people do that and I really want to stick with the whole old school nostalgic theme so I wanna stick with an old school engine Yes...oldschool. Bore the Z22 to 89 mill...and bolt an L head to it. Although you'll have to lean the engine about 23 degrees the other way....trannie...mms...etc will have to be addressed. No problemo.... :D Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Dogleg did not come with the 620. You're right. So many things are interchangeable/compatible. I could be wrong on the 79 620 clutch working. We'll wait for the grown-ups to get off work to verify. Quote Link to comment
Rat720 Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 I thought the dogleg didn't come stock in a 79 620...... And I thought about doing a ka swap but a lot of people do that and I really want to stick with the whole old school nostalgic theme so I wanna stick with an old school engine Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Pretty impressive double post there. Impressive for me and Sealik. Read above posts. Quote Link to comment
Rat720 Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Oh wow....lol...sorry. My phone still had it in the post box so I thought it hadn't posted. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 The Hardbody C tranny will bolt to the Z22 no problem. Length may be a problem though so measure first. The hole for the shifter may need to be moved back slightly and the rear mount modified (maybe) The Dogleg only came in the 200sx and the A10 as an option. To put in a later 620 you would also have to lengthen the driveshaft. All out Doglegs were short but there are a few long ones that were imported and have found their way into our vehicles. I would be curious to know if this is a long (31.5") or a short (26.3") Don't worry about the clutch. Clutches have no bearing on the transmission used. What does matter is the release bearing holder, or collar (also called a housing) size. It MUST match the pressure plate. So if you change the transmission be sure to keep and use the collar you have now. Trucks us a 225mm pressure plate but her motor could be from a 200sx and cars use a 200mm PP. All you have to do is remove the PP and measure the disc. Oil leaking out the front of the tranny/back of the motor could be the rear seal or the front seal in the transmission. It could also just be a leaking $5 pan gasket too! Check the transmission oil level. Not sure but you may be able to remove and replace the rear main seal simply by removing the flywheel to get at it. Use a couple of long wood screws and screw them into the old seal and yank it out with pliers. Slide the new on on the end of the crankshaft and tap into place with a wooden dowel. The only reason for over boring is if the motor is tired, worn out and burning oil. $300 isn't going to do it. Boring will be almost 2/3 that. Larger cylinders will require new over size pistons too. If the motor runs good, leave alone. Quote Link to comment
Rat720 Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Well the dogleg is already in her truck, was when we bought it. She's at work right now but if memory serves me correct its bolted to a l20b. Its just the clutch is starting to slip so we were wondering what car to use when looking up the clutch to buy. And just jacked up my truck to look where the leak is coming from, it is seeping through where the tranny bolts up to the engine, when the engine was reved more would seep out. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Because of the age of the truck, lots of things could have been swapped. It could have a car motor or even a car flywheel (200mm) or could be a truck motor and flywheel (225mm) There's no way to be sure until you remove it and measure. Yeah sounds like the rear seal. Quote Link to comment
Rat720 Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Well plan is to pull the head to do the head gasket, oil leak in the front around the timing chain, and drop the tranny to do the rear main all this week end...any tips on making any of that go as smith as possible? Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Avoid beer? Watch Hainz' videos over and over. Don't remove intake/exhaust manifolds from head. I'm assuming you're not having head resurfaced. Quote Link to comment
Rat720 Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 No, just pulling it, cleaning things up and reassembling with new gasket. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Watch Hainz' videos over and over. What he said. They're all on izzo's Youtube channel. http://www.youtube.com/user/h2theizzo Quote Link to comment
Rat720 Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Where can I find these videos? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Well plan is to pull the head to do the head gasket, oil leak in the front around the timing chain, and drop the tranny to do the rear main all this week end...any tips on making any of that go as smith as possible? Power wash the oily area and spray down with carb cleaner. Drive and watch to see where the oil is coming from. Most likely the valve cover or distributor. Do not replace the head gasket just because it looks like a leak from that area. Replacing the head gasket is a moderately complicated job that requires many things to be removed and put back in the same place and alignment. Failure to lock the timing chain will allow the chain tensioner to fall out adding a few more hours and gaskets to the job. Quote Link to comment
Rat720 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 I've done that, the 4 small bolts that go through the head around where the timing chain is, one of those bolts was missing when I got the truck, the one front passenger side, that's where oil is coming from, I got the bolt from a z22 at pullapart and put it in but its acting like its stripped, so I was gonna use either a tap or hilo coil to repair that when I pulled the head, any other way to deal with this?? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 I've done that, the 4 small bolts that go through the head around where the timing chain is, one of those bolts was missing when I got the truck, the one front passenger side, that's where oil is coming from, I got the bolt from a z22 at pullapart and put it in but its acting like its stripped, so I was gonna use either a tap or hilo coil to repair that when I pulled the head, any other way to deal with this?? I would just tap it out a little larger Quote Link to comment
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