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Window rubber fitment help


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I need to know if we can fix a couple of problems we ran into during window install ,,,the following pictures show that on the passenger side the rubber wont go down to meet window.. When we were putting window into rubber the rubber seemed to be really loose fitting ( kept falling off ) but we installed anyway.Is there any tips to maybe rolling rubber somehow? The windshield is aftermarket and have not tried putting original back in ( fogged ). We already had put sealer under edge before we noticed the problem....The second thing is that the metal does not hardly fit at all.In pictures you will see that in the corners the metal wont tuck under the rubber all the way ..The right side of trim is almost hanging out but in picture it looks like rubber is missing.The trim fitment is real bad at three of the corners and pretty bad at the other. We just put in rear window in another 510 using NOS rubber and had none of these problems.The rubbers are / were supposed to be Datsunlandsocal but i bought them from Zhiguli510 ( because he takes PayPal ) ..Have any of you had this kind of poor fitment ,or do you use another source for rubbers..Because the last thing i ever want to do is rant if problem can be fixed ,,even if it is manufacturers fault.BUT here we are

 

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All four corners are this bad or worse

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Wire is the same size as second stage of antenna and is NOT being forced under rubber

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we also bought rear window rubber but now we are afraid to use it.

and for those with high speed

 

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If you installed a Nissan seal in the back and didn't have any issues, I think you answered your own question.

 

The aftermarket stuff is crap. Lots of complaints of it cracking after only a few months and others have had fitment issues too. There was an NOS seal on ebay just the other day. It had a buy it now price was $239 but no one bought it.

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I will replace or refund if it cracks, which has happend in the past...

Have never had issues with fitmnet before though.

 

If anyone has any other options for an aftermarket seal thats not made in thailand, let me know

 

I ain`t even worried about cracking and if that day comes im sure we`ll settle up..........i just used your name as reference NOT to slight you.

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What i am worried about is huge gap and really poor stainless fitment and how someone with lots of ANY experience might solve such a problem..ie. prying ,twisting under rubber putting more sealer under edge or whatnot

 

DatsNooB-er i may take you up on your option --- if old windshield doesn`t help problem,,,,car is totally and completely mobile and currently in Auburn.

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I ain`t even worried about cracking and if that day comes im sure we`ll settle up..........i just used your name as reference NOT to slight you.

I hear you; I just don't like hearing people have problems with stuff that I sell. Nothing worse than getting something that should work for you and it doesn't.

Mike@Datsunlandsocal has had issues before with rear windshield seals, and has changed the size to fit better, again because they would crack in less then a few months.

Please let me know how I can help

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I had a similar problem when I replaced the windshield in my KC... just not as bad as that.

 

Look around for a product called NP1 made by sonneborn... It will dry/cure to a little softer than the original window seal. Use denatured alcohol to clean the area and smooth it once you apply it. Water or spit wont work and stronger chemicals will cause it to degrade faster. Its also MESSY and STICKY so be careful when applying. Let it dry for 2 days just to make sure before you go to clean up the residue left on the windshield(the tube says 24 hrs but Ive had it still soft in the middle and ended up with an ugly seam). A razorblade and fine steel wool will clean up the glass just fine. The outer edge exposed to lots of sun will turn chalky/gray over time but can be cleaned up with steel wool again.

 

I like this better than the butyl window sealant youd buy at napa or schucks because it never hardens and still stays pliable in subzero temps... The only downside is that its a one time deal... youre NOT going to be able to remove and reuse your window seal...

 

 

A side benefit is that it also has the same heat characteristics as Great Stuff engine sealant but is a little softer when dry. and it only costs about 5 bucks a tube. Also, if youre doing home interior work, this stuff also lasts about 10 times longer than any other caulk I have used. I saw a shower that I did over 10 years ago and this stuff is still in decent shape.

 

You should be able to find it in a concrete supply/finisher wholesaler type place or you can find it online for a similar price + shipping. Lowes/Home Depot will not carry it... It comes in a standard size caulk tube.

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...If youre REALLY careful, you could add some spacers on the inside and apply the caulk to the inside seam so that it isnt as exposed to the sun and less noticeable from the outside. You could probably do it in two steps.

 

1. Put some spacers in to hold the windshield flush with the outside seal and apply it between the spacers (not touching them... when dry it WILL hold it in place... just dont fill the void all the way to the edge of the seam)

 

2. When it has cured put a pretty finish seam on there and clean it up. ...If it were me Id tape/mask off anything I didnt want to have caulk on it while doing this on the interior... dash board, steering wheel, put blankets over the seats...

 

If you take your time I think this would work out to be very functional and look very nice.

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