E-brake light throttle connection?

[RAlly_DatoB210]

So if this is a dumb post I appologise in advance, but I thought it was weird. So today not 5 minutes after an offer to buy my b210 I started considering selling. It's like it knew I was trying to sell it and got mad. Only other explanation is demonic possesion or voodoo. Lol

annnnyyyways the idiot light for the E-brake came on. I drove another few blocks an pulled over to see if it was stuck on. I rarely use it for anything and probably haven't touched it since summer. Wasn't stuck. Pulled the lever a few times to see if maybe the sensor was just wonky and still stayed on. Normally one would expect a dragging sensation as related to driving with an ebrake on right? Nope. Infact quite the opposite. The throttle is stuck on at an advance. Stop lights I have to shift to neutral then when it drops to gear it chirps tires and will excellerate up to about 35 when it shifts into second gear and cruises around there with no foot on the gas. Is there some connection? And why or how? This one made no sense so I thought I would post it. Thanks for the help.

[datzenmike]

Is the throttle working otherwise? You can drive faster but it won't idle?

 

The choke fast idle cam is engaged and or the choke is on for some reason. Take the air filter top off and look at the choke plate.... is it open or closed???

[RAlly_DatoB210]

Let me edit that in saying I don't think ebrake lights cause my car to go faster cause that's how it was worded on the reread. It's sorta nifty like cruise contoll... Of death. So basically how do I undo this?

[metalmonkey47]

Sounds like my 210 had. The Hitachi had a problem with the choke and it would stick on the high idle cam. I'd occasionally be able to tap the throttle and get it to settle back down.

 

 

Unhook the harness to the E brake and see if the light turns off.

[RAlly_DatoB210]

Is the throttle working otherwise? You can drive faster but it won't idle?

 

The choke fast idle cam is engaged and or the choke is on for some reason. Take the air filter top off and look at the choke plate.... is it open or closed???

. First thing I did was pop the air filter cover. Had rough idle but now it's smooth but higher. When I looked down the carb the butterfly on the carb is about halfway open and won't close off. When it warms up it idles higher. This used to happen on my both of my dads 210's and he told me that he used to just smack it a few times with his ax handle.

[RAlly_DatoB210]

Sounds like my 210 had. The Hitachi had a problem with the choke and it would stick on the high idle cam. I'd occasionally be able to tap the throttle and get it to settle back down.

Unhook the harness to the E brake and see if the light turns off.

I will try unplugging it tommorow morning and see if that fixes it. Sounds like how mine starts up. It idles high but after a quick rev it mellows out and recently has been a little choked for air.

Btw I can drive faster than that. Feels weaker at higher speeds to me but could be placebo. Shift points are more strung out in revs too. Like normally the autobox would shift up around 25 mph and 45 or 50 mph. Now it shifts from first to second around 30 35 and will shift to 3rd about 60 or so. I usually pull it from drive to 2nd then back to drive before it hits such high rpms.

[metalmonkey47]

Sounds like you just need to adjust your choke maybe? Sounds as if it's not opening all the way.

[datzenmike]

There was a discussion about a mystery brake warning light that was on and there was some strange Nissan wiring that caused it but couldn't be wxplained why they did it this way. Maybe someone will remember???

 

 

Choke on could be no power to the choke heater. Also some newer models only have choke heater if the alternator is charging. There is a choke heater relay that needs alternator output to keep the relay ON.

 

 

I guess if you have a test light you could test the choke heater on the back of the carb for power. and go from there.

 

 

Do you know if your alternator is charging????

[metalmonkey47]

Choke on could be no power to the choke heater. Also some newer models only have choke heater if the alternator is charging. There is a choke heater relay that needs alternator output to keep the relay ON.

 

Hmmmm that's interesting. Is that related to the warm up relay?

[datzenmike]

No. That sounds like something from an EFI system.

 

The choke relay senses if the motor should stall while warming up. This way if you are in the house having another coffee and the motor stalls the choke doesn't warm up and come off making the (still cold) motor difficult to start without it.

[Rob W.]

Just a thought but in some cars when the master cylinder is low on fluid the brake light will come on. Did you check the fluid already?

[datsunaholic]

Lots of late 70s Datsuns for some ungodly reason turn on the brake warning light when the choke isn't working. I've had 2 '78 510s do that. Fast idle and no power after 2nd gear.

 

BUT... in both cases the alternator wasn't working either. Is the charge light working? In one case, the alternator was so screwed up the charge light wouldn't illuminate EVER (even with the engine off) and it wasn't charging. The other one, the charge light acted "normal" but it still wasn't charging.

 

But I will mention that almost every time I've had an alternator failure, the choke quit working at the same time. The auto-choke relay only turns on when the alternator is working.

[ggzilla]

Yes, the B210 autochoke runs off the alternator through a relay. Check for power at the relay. It's under the hood and has three wires if I recall correctly. It might be under the black cover by the coil.

[datzenmike]

Lots of late 70s Datsuns for some ungodly reason turn on the brake warning light when the choke isn't working. I've had 2 '78 510s do that. Fast idle and no power after 2nd gear.

 

Doug I was looking at the wiring diagram, and the reason may be to show a red brake warning when the key is turned on to show that the bulb isn't blown out. ?