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clutch bleeding

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2 man job like brakes...unless you have a vacuum pump.put rubber line on bleed nipple get a jar and fill it part way sink rubber hose into jar with fluid.have a buddy press in clutch and hold you open bleed screw.then close bleed screw..buddy releases peddle.repeat until you have clutch peddle...drink beer.



oh yeah also make sure the master stays somewhat to completely filled.

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Guest DatsuNoob

Put on some latex gloves, take the brake master off and fill the reservoir. Pump the push shaft on it until it flows from the ends in a nice gush. reinstall and bleed the line with the help of a buddy like normal and you should be good to go.

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what I do when they won't bleed is suck out the master cylinders old fluid, then fill the clutch master with fresh fluid. Then take the line off of the new slave cylinder and do what is called a "Gravity Bleed". Keep the master cylinder topped off with fluid, and allow the fluid to drip out of the lower line. If the fluid gushes out, put the line back on the slave cylinder, if you let the fluid drain all the way out of the master cylinder you have to start all over and will be fighting air pockets for quite some time. If no fluid comes out when you pull the line, gently press the clutch pedal halfway to the floor and repeat the process till you have run about a 1/4 of a quart through. Keep in mind, if the master cylinder did completely drain when you replaced your slave that is probably the problem you are dealing with.


After gravity bleeding long enough to fully top off the master cylinder once(or more if the master was ever completely drained), then you can try "Pressure Bleeding", where you have a friend push the clutch pedal almost all the way to the floor(I have seen air pocket problems when people push the pedal all the way to the floor, some 90s rangers and other cars will not bleed if you mash the pedal to the floor), then loosen the bleeder screw. Tighten the bleeder screw back up, and your buddy will probably have to use his hand to pull the clutch pedal back up. Repeat this a few times, then have him pump the pedal several times, and while he holds the pedal almost to the floor and keeps pressure on it, crack the bleeder and tighten. Repeat that process until the clutch slave begins to actuate the clutch.


If that process doesn't work and you cannot get your hands on a vacuum pump, pull the slave off and bench bleed it. Your new slave should have came with instructions on how to do this, if it didn't, you fill the slave up with fluid and manually actuate the slave back and forth to pump fluid through.


If after new fluid, bench bleeding, gravity bleeding, and pressure bleeding, you still don't have a good pedal, go back to the parts store and tell them you need a different slave, and that this one is defective. If the new slave doesn't work, you need to replace the master. Keep the slave and buy a new master cylinder from a different parts place, they both should be replaced at the same time in an ideal situation anyway.


As far as if the part is a piece of crap? Depends...some brands are worse than others in the aftermarket world, and some companies make a great brake master cylinder but a crappy clutch slave. It depends on the company, the engineer that reverse engineered the part, the materials used to build it, and where it was manufactured. If it is built in china, best of luck on that.


I personally run only Japanese and American parts. If I have to, I can substitute a Canadian or Mexican part if I don't have the money for either. Obviously dealer-bought Genuine Nissan Parts are best, but lets be honest, sometimes you don't have time or money for them.

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