Jewosh Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Well today I drained all the coolant and it came out a nasty rust looking color with some particles in it. I refilled it to the brim with 50/50 mixture, and let it run for a little before driving it. Driving it so far, I've noticed that the temperature still rises and falls, but not nearly as high. Rather than 200 it is only getting to around 185 or 190 and dropping to 170. Maybe it was air in the system or just needed new fluid, but whatever it was, it seems to be running better now! Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment
Jewosh Posted February 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 So... same problem still. Even with new thermostat, no air in the system, fresh coolant, it still rises to 200 and then drops. When it gets any higher I pull over and wait for it to cool. This happened tonight, 55F here. I don't know what to do other than try drilling a hole in the thermostat or running a lower temp one to see if it changes things. What would you recommend? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 must be a bad radiator Quote Link to comment
Jewosh Posted February 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 I haven't changed it since I got the car, but it is quite a big aftermarket one. I know it doesn't leak or anything. Could it be because of the mismatching head and block that something just doesn't quite fit proper? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 There's ad thing I'm not clear on. If you just changed the coolant, it's likely to happen again. So have you driven it, let it cool down, then topped it up? After that it should be good. Otherwise yes it's some mechanical problem. Poor flow somewhere. Or bad airflow. Thermo put in backwards maybe. Quote Link to comment
Jewosh Posted February 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Well I changed the coolant a week ago and make sure its topped off every few days so thats not it. I checked the thermo and its in the right way, so then it must be mechanical? im thinking of trying a bypass hole in the thermo first, and if that doesnt work getting a 160F thermo. Would it be bad to run it with no thermo as a test? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Yes, even a new thermostat may be bad, stuck partly closed and not allowing the water to flow. A simple test is to remove it. If then it keeps cool you know that's the problem. But be sure to replace it, as your fuel economy will suffer not to mention the heater can run too cold for winter. The bypass hole is not needed to make it run correctly. I'd be looking elsewhere. Is the rediator partially plugged? Here's a no-cost way to test it: Take off the lower hose of the radiator. Block it with your hand, and fill the radiator with plain water. Take your hand off and the water should gush out in as big a stream as the lower opening. If it runs out in a smaller stream, the radiator has blockage inside and should be replaced or repaired. It's cheaper to buy a new aluminum radiator than to "rod out" or repair an old radiator. Blockage in the block or water pump is rare. It's possible a gasket is put on wrong or something like that, but it seems unlikely. And don't trust the gauage too much. Quote Link to comment
Jewosh Posted February 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Thank you a bunch! I will try testing the radiator as soon as I can. The gauge I have is aftermarket and I wasn't the one who installed it, so I don't know how accurate it is. Quote Link to comment
Jewosh Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Turns out it was the head gasket... and I have a different engine than I thought. It appears to be a 2200 short block on bottom with l16 head. Either way the head gasket went and I know that weird temperature issues can be a sign of it. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 I have a different engine than I thought...2200 short block on bottom with l16 head Score! There's always a silver lining. Quote Link to comment
Jewosh Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 haha yea. I'm really wondering what sort of power this setup is putting out but im too scared to dyno it right now. It feels really torquey but it doesnt really like to rev. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 So it's a Z22 block with a 210 head!!!! That's 10.9 compression, no wonder the gasket blew. Get a U-67 head, they're open chamber and the compression will drop to 9.8. Also better breathing ports and valves. Quote Link to comment
Jewosh Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Is that what it is? wow. Will the U-67 head raise power? right now it is a torque monster, but my 32/36 weber is limiting it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 210 has the smal 1.5 in valves and a 1.125 inch intake port U67 has a 1.65 in valves and 1.375 intake port. so best to match up the intake port sizes. a u67 would be better to get if you have funds. Quote Link to comment
Jewosh Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Ok. Once again thanks for all the help. Now I just have to hunt down my little coolant leak (pretty sure its thermostat housing) and I'll be all set, until something else breaks! Quote Link to comment
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