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67' 520 Project.


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Thanks for the answer.

 

I'm very excited to have found this site. I have been looking for a 320 for a long time. Last week I found it and a 520. I bought both from the same guy. The best part is they were only 20 miles from my house!

 

Now I'm the proud owner of a '63 L320 & '66 (or) '67 L520 ! ! ! Both are RUST FREE !!!

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Thanks for the answer.

 

I'm very excited to have found this site. I have been looking for a 320 for a long time. Last week I found it and a 520. I bought both from the same guy. The best part is they were only 20 miles from my house!

 

Now I'm the proud owner of a '63 L320 & '66 (or) '67 L520 ! ! ! Both are RUST FREE !!!

 

Welcome bob! Start a thread and get us some pics!

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Anyone got any 520/521 antennas laying around they want to get rid of? I need one :D

 

So the weber is up and going... works pretty good. Put a new cap and rotor adjusted the points on the dizzy, new plugs and wires but she still has a mean hesitation at full throttle. It kind of bounces around with the power. Sometimes it will give me full throttle some times it bogs... Any ideas????

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So, I have done a complete tune up to this old motor. Points, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, valve adjusment, timing, and i still have a dead cylinder.... Im thinking i have a burnt valve because the valves were so far out of adjusment... Will the mg head gasket work on the j13 motor? Im having trouble finding a headgasket. And i dont want to take the head off if i cant find a gasket. Any ideas???????:confused:

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wow the truck is looking sweeeeeeeet!!!!! here is a pic of the gasket set. $25 shipped. and the rings are actually std, .020, .030 and .060. they are $15 shipped. if you lived closer you could have taken my whole motor for $100. it was running when i swaped it for a rotary.

DSC03137.jpg

 

here are the rings...

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u got it! i removed the torsion bars cuz it was on the way of the header for the rotary. its riding on 17's for now. and its in the process of being airbagged. the rear is bridged and bagged, next is the 4link. then the front cuz its a bit more challenging.

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does it ride terrible with the tortions totally removed? I thought about doing that but then your always on the bump stops... I was thinking about just reindexing them and removing a leaf or two in the back to drop it a bit more. Mine are 17s too but im running 235/45/17 rubber on them. So there pretty wide. I think if i go much lower in the front im going to run into rubbing issues. Did that electronic dizzy help a lot? If it did maybe i should look into that... that is after i get it running on all 4 cylinders :rolleyes:

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it rides rough on the bump stops. reindexing is the way to go for you. take a leaf out and you are in business. i wouldnt take out more than that. im running 205/40s on mine. no rub. i never got to put in the dizzy since i got a great deal on the rotary. before the swap i had the bars cranked down a bit.

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MAN ITS FUN!!! now i really enjoy drivin this thing. well i did cuz i blew it up doin some crazy burnouts and stuff. its getting all new seals, bearings, eccentric shaft, rotors and a port job right now. its such an ez swap. can do it in a day or 2 if you have help. i did it alone in a weekend. usethe stock rx radiator and you just have to trim off a lil on the brackets to fit in the factory spot. youll need an electric fan. im also using the beehive style oil cooler instead of front mount. even if the front mount is better. 3 wires run the whole thing. if you decide to, i can walk you thru the whole thing. my motor is a 12a from an 82 gs. also the driveshaft will need to be shortened a couple of inches but since you have to mate the front part of the mazda to the rest of the shaft, its no biggie. it cost me 42 bucks to do the shaft. i can take pics of what ive done if you end up doin it....

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