INDY510 Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 . My friend has a totally stock 1984 720 KC 4x4 with a stock nap-z 8 plug motor (I guess 2.4L???)... stock carb.... everything is stock ..... . .. and he just got it running again after it was sitting for a year It ran great for a couple days ,,,, , but now there is a clicking noise coming from right at/near the carburetor.. When the clicking noise happens the truck is gutt-less ...... and has a serious lack of power He said it feels like there is a drop in voltage ........ and I said my 510 voltage regulator made a rapid clicking noise when it went bad Does a 1984 720 have a internally regulated alternator??? .......... or does it have a voltage regulator near the carb??? ALSO: ..... it seems like the primary coil is having problems sometimes ......... .. is there any way my HL510 coil for my matchbox would work??? or would my big yellow blaster coil that is for a points dizzy on a stock 1971 PL510 work??? Yeah I know there are no pics,,,, and too many words ........ :lol: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 The alternators are internally regulated.....clicking sound? Arcing out maybe...somewhere in that spot.???? Loose or broken lead? Should flash it up at nite....and have a look. Never had a stock coil calve....yet. You can check the resistance in the coil to confirm. So it doesn't click all the time? Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted December 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 . Thanks ...... I will go look at it soon ......... He said the fuel pump started clattering yesterday ........ and it was new 2 years ago apparently it's gone through 4 electric fuel pumps in 8 years ......... is that normal??? .......... :lol: Is there any way the electric choke could be making the noise and loss of power??? .... he said it sounds like it's coming from the carb. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 . Thanks ...... I will go look at it soon ......... He said the fuel pump started clattering yesterday ........ and it was new 2 years ago apparently it's gone through 4 electric fuel pumps in 8 years ......... is that normal??? .......... :lol: Ya...I would say that's a little abbynormal :D Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted December 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 . It sounds like a starter relay ......... it's one loud click by the carb and the truck stumbles.... . .. and feels like a loss of voltage it will even make the noise with the hood open and no one pushing on the gas.... Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted December 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Never had a stock coil calve....yet. You can check the resistance in the coil to confirm. So it doesn't click all the time? How do I check the resistance? ............ it was running great for a couple days but now it clicks sometimes and will almost die, but it stays running And then it will drive for a while ....... and then a loud click (like a starter relay) ...... .. and it just stumbles everytime it clicks Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 Low voltage output or no output from the alt will cause the choke heater relay to chatter. I assume the charge light does not come on? I would check the battery cables. the battery ends and the ground on the block and the starter lug. Next the three fusible links attached to the positive battery terminal, two Greens and a Black. They may look ok from the outside but be broken or melted in the middle. A/ Chattering AT the carb could only be the idle cut solenoid. Check that it's tight and well grounded and the red wire isn't loose. Low voltage or a loose wire can cause the chattering. B/ To check the coil pull the wire off the dizzy cap and put a spare plug in the end, lay on the valve cover and crank the motor. There should be spark on both coils. The intake side comes directly from the battery through a fusible link to the ignition switch so check that GREEN link again. A loose wire will interrupt the spark and measuring the coil resistance won't show this and low voltage will cause a week spark. Measuring the coil wont show this. Use a volt meter and check the input voltage and the supply (battery) voltage when acting up. Likely a loose or bad connection.. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 Just and FYI, i think it was pacific coast datsun that had replaced the 720 fuel pump a few times, just to have it shit out on him again. try and find one from a junk yard, probably last longer, or get an aftermarket one. remans for stock seem to be shitty Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 Hmmmm... a loud click....initially thought of the idle cut solenoid. Which might decrease fuel supply....if it was stating to calve But it's not that loud. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 It also only supplies the idle circuit. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 Just and FYI, i think it was pacific coast datsun that had replaced the 720 fuel pump a few times, just to have it shit out on him again. try and find one from a junk yard, probably last longer, or get an aftermarket one. remans for stock seem to be shitty Nothing better than a OE pump...even used...for that matter. Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted December 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 . He said it is exactly as loud as the starter relay "click" .......... when the motor doesn't even try to turn over and it just "clicks" one time The click at the carb is just one click ........ and then it sputters ......... ......... I will check out the idle cut solenoid... (that sounds like one of the problems) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 26, 2010 Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 If it was a bad battery connection, the ground on the head or the cable on the starter it may initially make a loud click to engage the starter. The sudden 250 amps of current flow may overpower the bad connection and the starter not turn over very well or not at all. The lowered voltage might also dim lights and make relays ans the idle cut solenoid chatter. The starter may also be bad but cleaning the four connection points is cheaper than replacing.. Quote Link to comment
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