New engine build intake/exhaust question

[JustinB]

I haven't followed this project to post, and I wish I had, but i've run into a snag.

I have a 1979 210 wagon with an A14 and 5sp dogleg trans that has about enough power to pull a small housecat off of a tree stump. Will travel freeway speeds, but only on a level surface. Even the smallest hill can drop you down to 40mph, and the engine will be pinging and knocking like a mother****er all the way up. Found a junked old A15 last fall and started piecing something new together. It's been a long road of finding parts at yards and on e-bay, but I think I have everything that I need to finish. I'm amazed how much I've spent on what I thought would be a couple hundred dollar engine, but I don't mind, as long as it works and I can drive the car again without worrying about being rear-ended all the time.

 

Block is out of (I THINK) and '80 or '81, not sure which model, never got to see. Was sitting in front of a 4sp trans that didn't seem to shift very smooth so it's out by my shed right now. The serial number is 379956 and it's marked G34. It has been cleaned, decked, honed, and had all bearings, seals, and gaskets replaced. The crank and cam are original and measured within tolerances.

 

The head is also somewhat of a mystery but it did come off of an A12 engine. Has also been cleaned, decked, and had new valves, springs, and stem seals installed. Didn't have the ports polished, and kinda wish I had but it was just more money at a time when I was a bit short.

 

Found a new carburetor for pretty cheap and picked that up, and i'm getting ready to put it on, but I have a question.

 

I was originally going to use a set of intake/exhaust manifolds that are, I assume from the 80's because there are a few sensors in the intake and extra vacuum lines, and the exhaust manifold has both EGR lines and another pipe that I don't really know where it goes to coming out of the base. They are marked H95.

 

The second set seems a bit older. Fewer lines, no sensors, and some sort of heat actuated gate inside the manifold to redirect exhaust to either hit the base of the intake, or flow past, which is physically attached to the exhaust. I think. Not really sure as I've never seen this design before. These are marked H91

 

Both looks like they will fit with no problems. Both are matched sets and cannot be interchanged. The H91 looks more basic, which is what I'm going for, but I wanted to know if anyone has any opinions on what would be best.

 

I'm doing my best to use as few electronics, and emissions stuff as I can. Keep it simple, so when/if something goes wrong there are less things it could be. Here are some pictures of what I'm working with. The manifolds on the left are H95 and right are H91 in all pictures. Anyone with information or experience here is welcome to chime in.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Justin

Im not a A motor expert Maybe Pumpkin 210 can chim in on this one ,but maybe your distributor is off a tooth.

Had your ck the electrical timming?

[JustinB]

Oh, I don't really care about getting the old motor running good now. Just want to finish the new one and go.

[Braden]

definitely run the ones on the left, the heat riser shit blows, (literally), it will also save you some work see as how your intake is already nice and clean! be sur eto post more pics and a vid of the thing running!

[JustinB]

That will save me some time with cleaning. :) I had the first one before, but then I saw the second set and thought I'd pick them up since they were so cheap and simple, but I didn't know about the "heat riser" thingy. I thought maybe the heat would better vaporize the fuel, or something, so I thought I'd ask.

 

Hopefully I can get the rest of the bits cleaned up and paint whatever needs it and then toss it in. Thinking I'll be able to do it next weekend, almost for sure, then I'll take some pics of it installed and a video of me trying to start it the first time and then running away from the fire! :) Honestly though, I think it'll be good. I've already got it TDC on the compression for cyl #1 so timing shouldn't be an issue, just have to fine-tune it a little, and the carb is freshly built so it "should" be good to go. hopefully I won't have to monkey with that.

[datzenmike]

 

Go with the left side stuff. The right side uses hot exhaust to warm the intake, the left uses warm water directly from the head. If the A12 head below looks like it is already fitted with the correct holes.

 

and another pipe that I don't really know where it goes to coming out of the base.

 

The hose is likely the outlet for the coolant flowing through the runners to warm them. This has to be piped down to the lower rad hose inlet to complete the circuit. Warm water out the head into the intake to warm it down to the rad inlet and back into the motor. You can see the connection sticking up on the lower rad hose connection... or splice into the hearer hose.

 

 

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[JustinB]

You always hear about cold air intakes and such, why would you want to warm the air going into the engine? Wouldn't it expand less when it ignites because it has less density to begin with, or is that wrong-thinking? Is it to try and save gas somehow? Just interested in the theory. Yes, it does look like the head has water outlets there so I pretty much NEED to use the one on the left, looking at it more now.

[banzai510(hainz)]

the heat riser is also for the cold weather if your carb wants to ice up.

some head/manifold will have holes to pass the hot water. usually there will be a hot water line to the manifold.

 

LOOKING AT YOUR NEW HEAD ARE THOSE 3 LITTLE HOLES WATER PASSAGES that soembody drilled?

[JustinB]

They were like that when I got it, so I couldn't tell you if they are stock or someone tried to modify it sometime in its past.

 

Don't know why there are 3 holes and not 4. I'm off to do a job, but I'll be back on thursday and I'll try to look a little more closely.