metalmonkey47 Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 (edited) Yeah, here we go again. So I wasn't paying attention and when i was putting the finishing touches I put in the thermostat and when I slipped over the housing, the thermostat slipped between the head and housing where I wouldn't see it. I filled up the radiator to check for leaks and found a big one (again, I wasn't paying much attention) assuming it was loose, I tightened it down and... SNAP. Fuck. There goes my day. Anyways, that's been solved thanks to 420n620! (thanks again kim!) I decided to just say FUCKIT and fire it up leaking water since I only wanted to see it run for a split second. I turned the key and it's not starting. Rounded it down to this: I'm not getting any spark. Nothing changed between the time I pulled the head and now, so why would it not be working? What are some ways I can troubleshoot this? Also, engine is an A15 with an MSD Blaster 3 coil and 8ohm ballast resistor. Distributor cap was replaced before I bought it as well as wires. Plugs are new, but that's irrelevant since I'm getting no spark at the coil. I guess the smart thing would be to test the coil for 12 volts to start, but it's too late to go out now and test. ALSO, my fuse for my spark computer was blown. When I replaced it, I still get no spark and the fuse does not blow again. Last symptom: My negative terminal is getting super hot, which is usually a sign of high amp draw. Cam someone help point me in the right direction on this? Edit: Suppose this should be in electrical. Can a mod move it please? Thanks. Edited September 13, 2010 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Why do you have a ballast resistor? A15s didn't use them, neither did Datsun 210 (except some Canadian ones). Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Why do you have a ballast resistor? A15s didn't use them, neither did Datsun 210 (except some Canadian ones). MSD says you have to use one on factory ignitions with the Blaster 3. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Kill it with fire :rofl: bust out the light tester and see whats up, if ur getting power to the coil, where, blah blah Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 :blink: ,,,, well that sucks :o Obviously electrical , and 99% of the time things won't work after we tinker is because we tinkered with them :lol: ( Doesn't mean we caused the problem , but likely can easily finish one off ! arghhhhhhh electrical gremlins :angry: ) Check for loose wires ? Backwards Wires ? Grounds ? Clean all your connections ? You install the coil before or after pulling the head ? Do you have the old coil to test with ? Ignition System Grounded Properly ? IDK ? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Kill it with fire :rofl: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDy3kV8Kuu4 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 :blink: ,,,, well that sucks :o Obviously electrical , and 99% of the time things won't work after we tinker is because we tinkered with them :lol: ( Doesn't mean we caused the problem , but likely can easily finish one off ! arghhhhhhh electrical gremlins :angry: ) Check for loose wires ? Backwards Wires ? Grounds ? Clean all your connections ? You install the coil before or after pulling the head ? Do you have the old coil to test with ? Ignition System Grounded Properly ? IDK ? The coil is good. I installed it months ago after the old one started going to shit. I'll check the grounds. Maybe somethings corroded? Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 The coil is good. I installed it months ago after the old one started going to shit. I'll check the grounds. Maybe somethings corroded? The thing is don't just VISUALLY inspect wires and say "mmmmmmmmmm kkkkkaaaaaayyy it's ok !" ,,, you have to just start CAREFULLY clean the connections or know you have cleaned them , test them , electrical grease them and move on to the next ! .... Can you search Google for an FSM for yo ride ? ( possible wiring diagrams might be better than haynes tiny print , and Chilton's Generic "one diagram fits all" method to working on cars :rolleyes: ---> Chilton's tends to use the same picture(s) in some manuals UNIVERSALLY for different makes , models , and even years <_< On a seperate note ,,, your battery cable posts can normally become slightly warm , but should never be hot ,,, clean your connections and even then battery cables will rot through the insulation ( corrode ) where you cannot see it ! Can you post a video ( if that helps , if not don't worry about it ! ) Is there a reset switch on your "Spark Computer"( I am not sure ? ) hmmmmmmmmmmmm Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Did your "major leak" spray water all over the distributor? If it did, take off the cap and dry everything out. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Well here we go: I woke up at 8 this morning to fight this car AGAIN. Disconnected everything cleaned and greased every terminal, pulled the distributor cap to clean up the internals, and then something caught my mind... I pulled the plug that goes into the spark computer on the distributor and after a quick inspection, found that they were blue as a smerf and I would NEVER get power like that so I cleaned em up and heres the result: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcqSbJlfn44 Quote Link to comment
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