510kevin Posted September 6, 2010 Report Share Posted September 6, 2010 hey guys, i gotta problem (imagine that!) my turn signals/gas gauge/temp and oil pressure gauges dont work. could it be the voltage regulator under the dash? when i replace the fuse and start the car the 20amp fuse just blows. the wiring and all known grounds are in good shape. everything works with a new fuse if the ignition is on. after i start the car, i lose it all. :angry: ive searched til my eyes crossed, havent came up with a definate answer. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 7, 2010 Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 If I have it correct... with ignition on not running, everything fine. Start and fuse blows, no charge light, low oil pressure light, gas and temp gauges, turn signals, wiper and washer quit. All these things are on that fuse. Seems like everything is fine until the engine starts to charge. All fine at 12 volts but at charge levels fuse blows. Try pulling the white plastic plug in the alternator and start. This will disable the charge. See if it still blows. If the fuse is fine maybe the regulator is bad. Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 If I have it correct... with ignition on not running, everything fine. Start and fuse blows, no charge light, low oil pressure light, gas and temp gauges, turn signals, wiper and washer quit. All these things are on that fuse. Seems like everything is fine until the engine starts to charge. All fine at 12 volts but at charge levels fuse blows. Try pulling the white plastic plug in the alternator and start. This will disable the charge. See if it still blows. If the fuse is fine maybe the regulator is bad. i just pulled the plug from the alternator, fired up the car and everything still worked. must be the voltage regulator. im gonna pull it out tomorrow, i might try to repair or clean it. if not, ill just order another and hope that fixes it!! p.s. mike, im just gonna start pm'ing you when i have a problem and quit posting!! :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 7, 2010 Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 p.s. mike, im just gonna start pm'ing you when i have a problem and quit posting!! :D Only problem is that no one can read about the problem and hopefully the cure and apply it to their vehicle. Your post becomes history and stored info for all to access. Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 hey mike, i took the cluster out of my 510 today and dont see a voltage regulator at all. its a 70 510,is there still a regulator for the gauges in 70? the car has an externally regulated alternator with the regulator mounted in the stock location on the strut tower. any ideas? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 The alternaror regulator is entirely different, so don't worry about it for this problem. Here's what happens: When the car is running the battery voltage at idle with all the accessories on can be very low, maybe even below 12 volts. When revved up the charge is about 14.3 volts. The gauges being electrical will read higher or lower because of the changing voltages. To correct this a small voltage regulator in included inside the gauge cluster and regulates the voltage for the gauges at about 8 volts. This 8 volts is easily maintained and keeps the gauges reading even at all times. Offhand I don't know the location, but it should be on or in the cluster. Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 oh, yeah, and with a new fuse, replugged my alternator in and disconnected my fuel sending unit, started the car. the turn signals worked, but the fuse got hot and the alternator started SMOKING!!!!! WTF!!!! :sick: Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 ordered a new alternator. should be here this afternoon. the alternator was smoking and sparking when i revved up the motor. hopefully this will be the end of my problems........ Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 alternator was the problem. $38 worth of happiness!! :D Quote Link to comment
70Goon Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 I have a similar issue with my goon. When I replace the fuse for the running lights/guages etc.. and turn on the lights...the fuse blows and only my headlights work. When i replace the fuse without turning on the headlights, everything works. Signals,wipers,guages, etc etc....Could this regulator in the cluster be an issue as well? There are some times where I replace the fuse and i can drive for a short distance with no problems but then it just reappears again. I have not tried replacing the fuse and running the car at a higher idle though. Thanks, D Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 24, 2010 Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 Hope the alternator dont last 38minutes. 38$ is cheap But I had good luck with the last Schucks(autolite brand alternator before I upgraded t a Nissan 50amper rebuild) Quote Link to comment
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