7M-GE repairs

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Now its no longer rusty, but still stuck. I guess I'll just keep trying it until it breaks loose...

 

It looks cool without the timing cover for some reason. :D

Throttle body was a pain to remove, too many damn hard to remove connections...

Filthy after 18 years of use...

 

Going to take the head off once I figure out how to get that damned bolt off.

[shancerlelby]

looks like your making some headway! keep up the good work!

[Stupid_fast]

looks like your making some headway! keep up the good work!

 

 

Thanks, hopefully I can get the head removed tomorrow!!

 

 

 

I just got an idea for a future upgrade. I noticed the NA supra 7M-GE has a different design throttle body with dual pipes, would this give better performance than the stock one on the cressida 7m?

EDIT AGAIN, the cressida NA 7MGE seems to have the same throttle body as the 7MGTE.

 

Can anyone tell a difference in the design/airflow capacity just by looking at the pics?

 

Maybe possible to mod it for dual throttle bodies? Would be awesome if possible!

 

EDIT, the ARP 7MGTE head studs will work on it, right? Can I use those later on when I retorque the head? I don't have the time right now to wait for them to ship here. :(

 

Edit, Also thinking of going to the junkyard after the head gasket is done to get some extra cressida springs and cutting them for higher spring rate. If I don't make it too high of a rate this will help performance, yeah? Also looks quite nicer a little lower than stock.

[idylan123]

yes the 7mgte arps will work, im not sure on the flow difference, but im sure its substantially better, just cuz the supra is the performance cressida. all M motors parts are interchangeable. minus internals.

 

i have 7mgte arps on my 5m and a 7m hks headgasket.

and make sure you torque the head gasket to 72 lbs not the 52 or w/e toyota recommends. and when you get the arps, you have to torque it to 90 lbs

[Stupid_fast]

yes the 7mgte arps will work, im not sure on the flow difference, but im sure its substantially better, just cuz the supra is the performance cressida. all M motors parts are interchangeable. minus internals.

 

i have 7mgte arps on my 5m and a 7m hks headgasket.

and make sure you torque the head gasket to 72 lbs not the 52 or w/e toyota recommends. and when you get the arps, you have to torque it to 90 lbs

 

Cool, thank you. It would make sense that the 7MGTE throttle does not have as much flow as the NA because its boosted? I'll probably grab that throttle body from the junkyard off of the 7m supra they have there. Mounting the cruise control and throttle cables might be a pain, but it could be worth it. Definitely not doing this immediately though.

 

As for internals, funny thing is the 7MGE cams are an upgrade from the 7MGTE cams.

 

 

Offtopic, I still need to order the clutch for my 510!!

[idylan123]

theyre only a tiny upgrade, barely noticeable. and thats just cuz the lobes are a tiny bit bigger.

[Stupid_fast]

Well I just cleaned out the intake manifold and throttle... So that should help things.

 

Any ideas on the stuck bolt? There is another connection further down, which also has a very stuck bolt. And where is the godamned angry face emoticon?

 

 

edit, well its 12:00 and I give up for the day. I put more PB on it, and I'm going to try again in the morning. I have one more method to try and then I'm out of ideas, maybe I will go to the store and find more stuff like PB and try it all.

 

edit, It didn't work... I'm out of ideas other than turning the bolt the wrong way.

[bananahamuck]

My opinion would be don`t change intake,because you`ll have to get most of hoses the cold start plumbing (different sides) throttle postion switch points a different direction and change all the alphabet switches just my opinionnote tbs aren`t the same length and pcv system not even the same.

[Stupid_fast]

Ah ok, oh well. Still would be cool if I got some sort of dual throttle setup going.

 

I just got some freeze-off bolt stuff that loosened the exhaust mani bolts!! Hurrah, now I can continue with the repair.

 

edit, Cylander head is removed, I will finish everything else tomorrow night or Thursday.

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Finally uploaded...

 

All clean. :D

Thank god for cold fusion...(If you get the reference, you will get it.)

Victory!

All the oil that leaked in the head...

Could have something to do with this different bolt design they used for the back one?

And finally!

Finally got the old oil filter off... And the new one ready to go in. BTW I am I suppose to pre-fill the oil filter? I've read somewhere I'm suppose to do that...

 

I do wish it sat lower, and wish the suspension was stiffer. Thinking about cutting the springs a coil, should drop it and give a gain in spring rate, should help cornering?

 

 

 

Looks like I got to it before there was any major gasket problems. Oh and, 56k warning.

 

edit, BTW should I also change the oil after the break-in period when I tighten down the head bolts?

And its it 1000km's so 620 miles should be good?

 

Edit, If I lower it on stock wheels I don't really like how narrow the wheels are, are there any drawbacks to using wheel spacers? Would love to have them push out a bit when I get the chance to upgrade the suspension.

 

edit, *yawn* Damn this is taking a long time...

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Head is going on tonight.

 

[shancerlelby]

right on, progress in the right direction now!

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Its currently 11:52 pm and I still have lots to do. Hoping to hear it revv before I go to sleep. I will make a vid of the start-up.

 

 

Meh gave up and went to bed at 5:00... Almost all back together.

 

Dont have a pic of the current status, but here are some others.

Attached the rice burner. Awesome. I could have mounted it behind the grill... But it would not have looked so ricery.

[shancerlelby]

lol. go to the wrecker and find a mid 2000's dodge caravan trans cooler. they are a nice shape and have seen em on cressidas before. Altho the x8 is maybe too classy and not bozo enough to pull it off.

[Stupid_fast]

lol. go to the wrecker and find a mid 2000's dodge caravan trans cooler. they are a nice shape and have seen em on cressidas before. Altho the x8 is maybe too classy and not bozo enough to pull it off.

 

Meh, if I get a bigger one eventually I'll probably get some like they put on the skyline GTR's.

 

 

 

 

^Do they sell these wheels in 5x114.3?

 

Shame that I cant afford something like this with SS lines....

 

 

Eventually I want to put some old-school looking wheels and flares on this one.

[bananahamuck]

I should have posted this a while ago BUT if you have the clearance a larger hp-3001 type/size will fit engine,but i seriously don`t know if a bigger filter works any better.And big fatty wheels/tires would look change whole look of car,,,for the good,,,

[Stupid_fast]

I should have posted this a while ago BUT if you have the clearance a larger hp-3001 type/size will fit engine,but i seriously don`t know if a bigger filter works any better.And big fatty wheels/tires would look change whole look of car,,,for the good,,,

 

Well, I'm changing the oil again in another 1000km's so I may look into that bigger filter when it comes time.

 

Yeah, I've wanted to put big tires on this for traction for a long time. Unfotunately I have limited funds for this car since I put everything of mine into my Datsun currently.

 

More pics...

I've been searching ffor this f*ing bolt for 3 hours.

Only to find it rolled under the jack stand.

[Stupid_fast]

IT RUNS! Pics soon...

 

edit,

 

Video soon...

[Stupid_fast]

OK I got a pretty big problem, today its over about 90 degrees here, quite a hot. My car has been performing like crap I just took it out once to go to the store and I had nearly no power coming up the hill to my house. I was in 2nd gear aprox 2500-2800RPM(4spd ratio's suck) and had nearly no acceleration, I tried shutting the AC compressor off with no effect. Any ideas?!

 

It would do this before the job sometimes also, this is what I was trying to fix. I really don't think a 3L v6 should perform this badly.

 

temperature is fine, oil is full, coolant is full, no leaks...

[lil89ram50]

will the motor just not accelerate and you have no power, or more like tranny is slipping and not letting it go faster? hows that tranny fluid look after you drove it now?

[Gary]

inline 6 ;)

 

check timing, usually the culprit if it idles fine but has no power

 

that or cos its got an AFM, it cant have any vac leaks between that and the throttle or else it runs like shit under load so maybe check that. the rubber elbow usually develops a split, and the one from throttle to plastic tube over the cam covers

[Stupid_fast]

will the motor just not accelerate and you have no power, or more like tranny is slipping and not letting it go faster? hows that tranny fluid look after you drove it now?

The motor revvs fine, quicker than before. The transmission slipped before, but now its running perfectly, shifts are much quicker and the torque converter grips better.

 

 

Oil looks great, the temperature is much better with the oil cooler I installed.

inline 6 ;)

 

check timing, usually the culprit if it idles fine but has no power

 

that or cos its got an AFM, it cant have any vac leaks between that and the throttle or else it runs like shit under load so maybe check that. the rubber elbow usually develops a split, and the one from throttle to plastic tube over the cam covers

 

Damn, just a typo! :(

 

I'll see what I can do with the timing when its cooled down a bit.

 

There is a hissing sound after the car has been running, something is leaking. I'll see if I can find it.

 

 

EDIT, sorted!! Two vacuum lines where swapped around. I was wondering why the intake was so quiet... LOL

 

The left most tubes in the correct order:

 

Also after I just went for a test drive, there is steam coming from the radiator cap, and a bubbling sound. The engine temp is perfect, is this ok? Maybe I over-filled the rad?

 

I didn't exceed 3,000RPM's while I was test driving it... ambient temp is approx 90-95 degrees F.

[shancerlelby]

probably burping out bubbles still in the cooling system. Park on a slight incline and leave the rad cap off possibly? i have a nice hill of a driveway and that works all the time.

[Gary]

try bleed the cooling system while you're stationary

 

i jacked the front of the car up, and with the engine cold i started and ran the engine with the rad cap off and paid attention to how the bubbles came out. i shoved an upside down coke bottle with the bottom cut off into the rad filler bit and filled water until it was up and above the filler neck to make things a bit easier but you dont have to do that

 

if its a steady stream (like it was boiling say) you've got dramas

if its a couple first up, but slows down till you only get the odd one, you're getting there

if it doesnt bubble at all, you should be good

 

if temp is creeping up through normal driving, theres problems with other parts of your cooling system, radiator could do with a pressure clean, maybe water pump not so good, thermostat might not be working right (ive had a few new ones fail on me before), check see there are no leaks etc

[Stupid_fast]

It does not bubble if the car is not hot, I'll try running it with the rad-cap open and see if it bubbles.

 

It started boiling only after I'de been driving for about 15 minutes. Its a 195-degree thermostat so its fully possible its just boiling. It was a very hot day.

 

Temperature has stayed at the exact same level since I've done the repair.

 

 

 

The car still does not have much low end, but its better than it was before so I'm happy.