bananahamuck Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 If a motor is running retarded( ignition wise not how MY brain works wise ) it sometimes runs hot. Did you ground the check connectors E1 and the T or TE1 together while timing? whats the compression? maybe spin engine by hand till top dead on flywheel pointer and make sure marks all still line up on cams,take a can of carb cleaner and spray on all hoses and fittings and watch to see if RPM changes,The upside down pop bottle idea posted earlier is a good one, you could also take thermostat out {last resort} just to see if bubbles stop check all cheep/free fixs first. Quote Link to comment
Socal Brian Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 ^^^ Do what he said and check your codes first. Your symptoms lead me to believe your timing is off, trying turning the motor setting the crank to zero and making sure the cam gears line up to the tick marks on the back plate. Good luck :) Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 I already set it to top dead when I took it apart, and put it back together the same way. I'll fittle with the timing later. Also, how do I check the codes? I've never done it before. I'll check out the shop manual and see if I can... It only bubbles when I have been driving a long time, it does not if I idle from initial start-up. Power is good, temp is good, everything seems good so far. Quote Link to comment
Gary Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 cool man, keep eyes on it i spose and get through that running in period then with coolant back in, if it still bubbles you'll have some checking to do :D serious codes come up when the overdrive light flashes between your speedo/tacho while you're cruisin about. to check codes you need to find the diagnostic plug, i cant remember where it is :( i know where the JZ one is but not 7M, i think its either close the intake plenum somewhere, or its near the interior fusebox on the drivers side. there'll be a little key (/diagram) telling you what each of the pinouts do. find the right terminals to bridge (bend a paperclip and shove it in the right terminals to put the ECM in diagnostic mode). i think this is where you're sposed to reset timing - been a while :( heh Quote Link to comment
Socal Brian Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 Like previously stated by another member, locate the diagnostic plug which should be bolted to your fuse box on the driver side fender labeled "Diagnostics." Open it and short out TE1 and E1, you'll know when you've done it correctly when the check engine light begins flashing. I'll be somewhat perplexed with your issue if you find no codes, possible AFM going out, fuel pressure...... Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 cool man, keep eyes on it i spose and get through that running in period then with coolant back in, if it still bubbles you'll have some checking to do :D serious codes come up when the overdrive light flashes between your speedo/tacho while you're cruisin about. to check codes you need to find the diagnostic plug, i cant remember where it is :( i know where the JZ one is but not 7M, i think its either close the intake plenum somewhere, or its near the interior fusebox on the drivers side. there'll be a little key (/diagram) telling you what each of the pinouts do. find the right terminals to bridge (bend a paperclip and shove it in the right terminals to put the ECM in diagnostic mode). i think this is where you're sposed to reset timing - been a while :( heh Nothing comes on/flashes while I'm driving. No check engine, nothing. Like previously stated by another member, locate the diagnostic plug which should be bolted to your fuse box on the driver side fender labeled "Diagnostics." Open it and short out TE1 and E1, you'll know when you've done it correctly when the check engine light begins flashing. I'll be somewhat perplexed with your issue if you find no codes, possible AFM going out...... The AFM seems to be fine now that I have the vacuum hoses in the right order. Still, I'll see if there are any error codes. Quote Link to comment
Socal Brian Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 You can still have error codes in the system with or without a live check engine light. You'll need to follow the TSRM for this car on testing the AFM and anything else that you think may be at fault. I'm trying to find an online TSRM, I'll edit this post in a moment I know I have it saved somewhere on this pc Ninja edit: Here ya go :) TSRM Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 You can still have error codes in the system with or without a live check engine light. You'll need to follow the TSRM for this car on testing the AFM and anything else that you think may be at fault. I'm trying to find an online TSRM, I'll edit this post in a moment I know I have it saved somewhere on this pc Ninja edit: Here ya go :) TSRM OK, I'll check it out. Thanks for the link. :) Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Son of a bitch! The check engine light came on... Will check it out tomorrow. :( Edit, was just the EGR stuff... Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Everything is good so far, running strong. Going to change the oil/coolant again and the head bolts for ARP studs next weekend Though, I noticed if i'm in 3rd gear(OD OFF) around 2600-3000RPM's and half throttle(getting on the freeway, ect) there is a bad burnt transmission oil smell, any idea? The transmission is still getting too hot? ... Quote Link to comment
Socal Brian Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 That's weird, does it slip at all. Maybe that clutch is burning up, miles? Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted September 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 That's weird, does it slip at all. Maybe that clutch is burning up, miles? It does not have a clutch, it has a torque converter. :) The 89-92 cressidas where only sold with a 4spd automatic. 121,000 miles. Going to change the oil right now, it seems to only smell bad after driving for a long time. I also repositioned the transmission cooler so that the radiator fan can assist cooling it while going low speeds. Quote Link to comment
Socal Brian Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Sorry I call the automatic gears clutches, got it from all the old grease monkeys here at work. How do you plan to flush the system, through the oil cooler lines? Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Sorry I call the automatic gears clutches, got it from all the old grease monkeys here at work. How do you plan to flush the system, through the oil cooler lines? AH! Right, the automatic assembly does use a few clutches, and bands. I forgot about that. :D Does not slip at all btw, has been much stronger since I changed the oil, shifts are quicker and harsher(what they should be, not abnormally) usually under 1 second (unless I do L>2 or something). All I did was drained out the trans oil, replaced the filter, and filled it back up... Maybe I should do it a second time to make sure everything is flushed? There was very few metal bits on the magnets in the oil pan of the transmission. Quote Link to comment
Socal Brian Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 AH! Right, the automatic assembly does use a few clutches, and bands. I forgot about that. :D Does not slip at all btw, has been much stronger since I changed the oil, shifts are quicker and harsher(what they should be, not abnormally) usually under 1 second (unless I do L>2 or something). All I did was drained out the trans oil, replaced the filter, and filled it back up... Maybe I should do it a second time to make sure everything is flushed? There was very few metal bits on the magnets in the oil pan of the transmission. Well for now drive it like you stole it, hopefully the smell wears off. In other words I got nothing Edit: Did you flush just by draining the pan. If so you still have old fluid in the converter. To drain that just remove an oil cooler line and start the car until it drains all the fluid out then shut it off immediately. Don't worry your tranny won't sustain any damage. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Well for now drive it like you stole it, hopefully the smell wears off. In other words I got nothing Edit: Did you flush just by draining the pan. If so you still have old fluid in the converter. To drain that just remove an oil cooler line and start the car until it drains all the fluid out then shut it off immediately. Don't worry your tranny won't sustain any damage. Yeah, I drianed the pan. I figured that with the new filter a little old oil would not make much of a difference. I'll definitely change it again soon. Still running strong, I got the socket to remove the oil filter so I'm going to change the oil again tomorrow probably... The oil filter is in between the exhaust manifold and engine mount... The way I changed I already had the cylinder head off, and exhaust manifold, ect. Lucky the K&N ones are wrench-off, but I didn't have a socket that fit it.(1" socket!) edit, Like I stole it, you say? hmmm... Idea. Involves a hacksaw and some metal... and lots of throttle... edit, hurrah... I can just remove the old head bolts and install these without removing the cylinder head, yeah? Also, better mounting. IT CAME WITH STICKERS! Quote Link to comment
Socal Brian Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Ooooh thats risky business changing out the bolts for studs now. If you must, do it in the order the book puts it in and one by one. The removal order, not install by the way. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted September 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Ooooh thats risky business changing out the bolts for studs now. If you must, do it in the order the book puts it in and one by one. The removal order, not install by the way. Ahh, OK. I'll probably take the head off again sometime and do this. The bolts should be fine for at least another 50k miles. edit, pulls fine up to 5k RPM's, sounds great and strong even through the lower end. All seems good now. :D Quote Link to comment
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