frustration but no fire

[Braden]

so i am trying to get fire to my new engine, i elminated the ballast resistor, wired up the dizzy, blaster 2 coil, i cannot get fire out of this thing, i have tried 3 different modules, 2 different dizzys, verified ground several times and no spark. after some testing here is my diagnostics, i am getting 12volts to both the b and c terminals on the module, the b wire i have running to the positive side of the coil and the c wire i have running to the negative side of the coil. the coil was wried accordingly- from the stock harness i spliced black/blue with the black/white and ran them to the negative side of the coil, i ran the solid blue to the positive side of the coil, maybe i should remove the black/blue wire from the circuit???? i shouldnt be getting 12 volts to both the b and c terminals on the module should i? please help guys i can post pics if need be, thanks

[datzenmike]

Wire this way if you have a Nissan EI coil:

 

 

On your '77 there should be a Black/White wire with 12 volt in START and RUN positions on the ignition switch. There should also be a Black/Red wire with 12 volt in the START position only. Join these together and they become the +12 wire at the bottom of the picture above. (be sure it is wired to the + side of the coil and the 'B' terminal of the module)

 

Now all you need is a wire from the 'C' terminal of the module to the - side of the coil.

.

[Braden]

thanks mike i have fire now, i found that pic earlier and now im on to timing, shit is pissing me off

[Braden]

blah

[Braden]

almost there

[Braden]

got it running, damn heck, junk ass dizzy i got, swapped it out with a different one just the way hainz did on his dvd and she fired up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! sonofabitch its been in the garage too long!!!!!!anyways ill explain more in detail a little later after dinner, it was some wierd shit!!

[Braden]

so it ended up being a combo of incorrect wiring and a faulty distributor. there is something not quite right about one of these dizzys ive got, somehow the mechanical advance is super loose??? maybe a spring off in there? ill tear into it and check it out! but yeah it was the mechanical advance advancing 100% immediately on startup and the coil wires were swapped, ive had alot of late night evenings on this thing and i probably just misplaced the wires. oh well, its up and going, now ive just gotta re-mount my electric fan on the front side of my radiator. cant wait to get this thing on the road these mikunis are so bad ass!!! the throttle response is extremely fast and the isky cam sounds awesome, hopefully when its on the higway it will be just as good.

[banzai510(hainz)]

sometimes the advance springs will break off inside the dizzy.see how EZ this is!!!!!!

[Braden]

i hvanet had a chance to tear it apart but im assuming thats what it is because if you hold the lower shaft you can spin the rotor alot in either direction. yes it is easy it only took me about an hour and absolutley zero timing adjustemnts (just what i set the dizzy to before i installed it) and it was idling great!!

[banzai510(hainz)]

Now you can be the L series GURU on the Kentucky area.

 

assume you had the oil pump primed?

 

let us know how that sucker runs with that cam. remeber stock ignition is oly good up to about 7k before the slope in the sytem might limit it.(worm gear,dizzy weights ect..)

[Braden]

hainz, ive got a timing question, i installed the matchbox just as you did in your video (with the module away from the exhaust)and after i got the truck running and i drove it, i went to adjust the timing. after using my timing light the truck showed to be somewhere between 20-25 degrees before tdc. i was like holy shit and i was going to adjust it down to 12-15 degrees. long story short i loosened up the dizzy so i could turn it to adjust it and while turning the distributor it started moving closer to the 12-15 mark. shortly after that i ran out of adjustment. i also noticed the truck seemed to run alot smoother with it at 20-25 degrees and as i turned it down to 12-15 it ran rougher. i thought this was very odd so i adjusted it back up to where it ran smoother and took it for a drive. it drove fine with zero spit and sputter but damn i just couldnt get over how high it said it was. do you think this could have something to do with that fat cam?? i know adjusting the timing on up is supposed to be good for these cammed engines but i didnt think this much was good. i read somehwere that with a combo of initial, mechanical, and vacumm advance you should have no more than 35 degrees period. it just seems odd to me but then again i am new to this much cam on one of these engines.

 

P.S. it runs like a scalded dog, i couldnt resist hammering down on it a little bit although i didnt go past 5k rpm (holy fuck this thing has like 10 mile son it!!!!!!) :rolleyes: :rolleyes: its like an on off switch, in first gear about 2500 rpm the power comes on strong on up through 3rd. i am a bit disappointed in the 5th gear i have now, it doesnt drop the revolutions a whoel lot on the highway as much as i expected it but i guess im just used to my chevy, but other than that the 5th gear is good!!! carbs are awesome!!!! didnt do shit to them other than throw em on and set all the mix the same (i still have alot of tuning to do on them though) ive got some jets i am gonna try out as well. im running 145's now but have 140's and 150's to try. and i must say i love the saturn alternator!!!!!! i absolutely love being able to turn on my lights and radio and have zero effect on my idle!!! i used to have to adjust my idle just for nighttime!!!

[banzai510(hainz)]

if your positive you had the rotor lined up on TDC and your timming plate was in the midde when you installed it I figure its good

But remember under the dizzy you still can loosen that 8mm bolt to move the timming plate more in the direction you need. also I assume you got yhr idle down enought were your not inducing more advance. Maybe swap another dizzy?

I really dont all the fact about timming when your rev it up. I just do the idle ,time it and call it good.

But on initial with side drafts I would do around 12-15 BTDC at idle

 

As for the mixtures. I believe I sent you the segment on carb jetting on 44s stock. I would assume you would use that as a base line. But Im not a expert on these either. I been using slose to the stock setting from the Mikuni book or what came on the carbs and has worked for me.

 

My 44mm dont have a vac port on them so I dont run anything. My 44s on my yellow car are about 30years old and not been rebuilt. but still work fine.

 

remeber soem matchbox dizzy had 2 mounts. But if it had a wront mount the rotor will point inbetween plug wire 1 & 3 but you should notice that if you cant get the dizzy to time as you have to roll it all the way to one side and still not be able to time it..

 

Personlly I would have got a shorter duration cam like the webcamshft 488 252. as if almost has the same lift. but shorter duaraton so you can get the power to the ground sooner and at lower RPM. Too late now

 

glad you figured it out. let us know

 

datzenmike or other might now more on total advance features

[banzai510(hainz)]

Post your vid.

Man that sounds good.

It sounds like a choke is on one of the carbs. It will have that hollow sucking sound.(like in the vid)

Maybe a choke plate is ON??????

 

PS Defdes on the Realm and Here has a 490/290 cam/w44mm. You can ask him what his jetting is. But I think he has a L16 .