Another diesel conversion

[Roger]

Hello, new member here. I like that diesel conversion that is currently going on on this forum, and I'm thinking about starting my own diesel project in a 521. I think the 2.2 Nissan being used is physically too large an engine, and have been pondering alternatives. It seems that a diesel from a front wheel vehicle is not a good idea for mounting and transmission compatibility reasons. That leaves still a few others to consider.

 

I like the Chevette Isuzu 1.8., but there are draw backs here, too. A custom drive shaft would be needed, as I would keep the Datsun rear ( for hub capping reasons). Anyone know about what that would cost? No a/c. How bout the Isuzu Imark? Did it come with A/c?

 

How 'bout the Escort/Mazda 2 liter? Has A/c, I think. 59hp. I think this is the same engine that came in the Mazed 626 and pick up.

 

I think these two other considerations are physically smaller and would fit more easily. I don't really want to cut for the radiator and these might fit.

 

 

thoughts?

 

[Skib]

having a drive shaft made is business as usual around here. you can easily get it shortened and spliced together for less than $100.

 

just make sure to how long you need it and have the shaft from the datto and what ever donor motor you use (if it doesnt have the same input shaft to the trans as the datto one)

[Cahoon520]

Hello, new member here. I like that diesel conversion that is currently going on on this forum, and I'm thinking about starting my own diesel project in a 521. I think the 2.2 Nissan being used is physically too large an engine, and have been pondering alternatives. It seems that a diesel from a front wheel vehicle is not a good idea for mounting and transmission compatibility reasons. That leaves still a few others to consider.

 

I like the Chevette Isuzu 1.8., but there are draw backs here, too. A custom drive shaft would be needed, as I would keep the Datsun rear ( for hub capping reasons). Anyone know about what that would cost? No a/c. How bout the Isuzu Imark? Did it come with A/c?

 

How 'bout the Escort/Mazda 2 liter? Has A/c, I think. 59hp. I think this is the same engine that came in the Mazed 626 and pick up.

 

I think these two other considerations are physically smaller and would fit more easily. I don't really want to cut for the radiator and these might fit.

 

 

thoughts?

 

 

The sd22 will fit into 521 a lot easier than in the 520. There is more length under the hood in the 521 than the 520 the motor mounts and transmission will only need little modification.

If you decide to go to the sd22 get a whole 720 diesel as your donor truck so you can have the engine, transmission, differential, glow pug controller, pump control, fuel filter, wire harness, driveshaft differential flange.

You will have to run a fuel return line( if the 521 doesn't already have one). You will have to separate the the glow plug, pump control, alternator, oil pressure, water temp sensors from the main harness of the 720 and join it into the 521 harness.

If you are looking for ac the 720 came with ac also.

[Farmer Joe]

you might look in to the 1.6l diesel VW engines from the golf and little caddy pickups.

 

ive seen some adapters that will let you mount them in a 'normal' fashion. i think its the suzuki samurai guys that do this conversion.

[wayno]

Hello, new member here. I like that diesel conversion that is currently going on on this forum, and I'm thinking about starting my own diesel project in a 521. I think the 2.2 Nissan being used is physically too large an engine, and have been pondering alternatives. It seems that a diesel from a front wheel vehicle is not a good idea for mounting and transmission compatibility reasons. That leaves still a few others to consider.

 

I like the Chevette Isuzu 1.8., but there are draw backs here, too. A custom drive shaft would be needed, as I would keep the Datsun rear ( for hub capping reasons). Anyone know about what that would cost? No a/c. How bout the Isuzu Imark? Did it come with A/c?

 

How 'bout the Escort/Mazda 2 liter? Has A/c, I think. 59hp. I think this is the same engine that came in the Mazed 626 and pick up.

 

I think these two other considerations are physically smaller and would fit more easily. I don't really want to cut for the radiator and these might fit.

 

 

thoughts?

Hi roger, which conversion are you watching, the 520 one? Cahoon520 is right, the SD22 will fit in the 521 engine compartment just fine, I put one in my 521, it is tight, but I even used the stock fan, but had to trim the blades about an inch because I used a stock J13 radiator in the stock mount position. I did a lot more than you would have to do though, I have never measured a stock regular cab shortbox datsun/nissan 720, so I do not know if you can do this, you need to measure the wheel base front to back to see if they are close enough, but I would buy a 1981/1982 datsun diesel regular cab shortbox that runs, pull the whole wiring harness out with all electrical accessories, scrap the cab and box and drop a 521 cab on the 720 frame, the two front cab mount holes are basicly the same, and the wheels center themselves correctly. then put the 720 diesel wiring harness in the 521 cab, you want to use the 720 steering collum because it has all the wiring for the lights, turn signals, wipers, ect. I used the tilt wheel, there is a way to use the stock 521 wiper motor and it works just like the 720 one. I also put together a short shaft transmission that bolts to the diesel so the stick shift comes out the stock hole and you can use the stock bench seat. I have done all this in my "1969 datsun kingcab project", but I put it on a diesel 720 kingcab frame and made my 521 a kingcab. I have done a lot of fabracation, but I made everything so I could pull the transmission out without pulling the engine, if you put a long shaft transmission in a 521 you will have to move the engine to get the tranny out!!! You can also put the diesel engine in the 521 frame, but I wanted disc brakes without buying a kit. If you do a diesel conversion make sure you get everything that is diesel related with the engine. I can help you if you decide to do a SD22 conversion. wayno

 

[wayno]

I goofed somehow, I do not know how my post ended up in the same box as who I was replying to. :( Sorry. wayno

[Charlie69]

Cahoon & Wayno are right, the 521 is 5" longer between the firewall & the radiator support frame. The L20B & diesel motors are a good fit. Deisels are a lot of work to convert but I think the gain would be worth it. I peronally would go with nissan diesel.

[Cahoon520]

Try this web site http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/ it has all the information you will need about Nissan diesels. I could not of pulled my swap off without this site.

John

[Roger]

Wow! You guys are a great help. I think I will go with the Nissan diesel (81-2) w/short bed 5-speed and drive shaft. That extra 5 inches over the 520 in the firewall-front engine compartment seems to be allI need.

 

The stock 720 radiator is too thick, you say,but (more)modern radiators are a bit thinner,I think.Got to leave room for that blessed condenser (I live in humid Maryland).

 

Is the rear differential the same width as the 520? Can the 520 rear be used?

 

I used to be into VW Vanagons and spent a ton on them ( for naught),as that water boxer is a waterleaker. I did learn a lot ,lot, lot about vehicle mechanics during my VW tenure. As for installing a VW diesel, I think you get the most power for the weight using VW diesels, and they are easily available, but I want to get away completely from VW's. It's time for something new. I like the 521 as they were common as dog shi* when I was a kid, and I loved them then ( not the dog shi*) as I love them now. Still do, and always have. They are mostly rusted to pieces a decade ago around here, so I am cogitating a purchase on the West coast and driving/towing it home.I really need a project like this to keep me busy and same,asI love to work on cars.I like gathering parts and hunting-down items and getting into the "culture". I'm a junk yard regular,but right now I'm going there just to "look," as I have no project to spend all my money on.

 

I'm taking my time and searching for a straight, rust-free 521, and after that everything else is negotiable.I learned frommy Vanagon days that: "Buy the best,as you can't afford the rest" is as true as the day is long.I want to start with a good body and fill it with my parts and money. Any other way is too difficult for me to over come. Its bestto get your ducks in a row befor you begin,and in this case its meansgetting my final project vision decidedupon before I begin. With the Vanagon, you could spend a fortune and work yourself to deathfixing it, and the thing still would not work right--time and time again.

 

Roger

[wayno]

Hi there Roger,The rear diff in the 520/521 is not what you want, the gearing is wrong, you would need to floor the diesel just to get hiway speeds, I do not know what gearing is in the 520 for sure, but it is probibly either 488 or 437 gears, the 521 with the L block had 437 gears. The diesel needs 388 gears and I am going to put the 370 gears in, in the near future(I already have them) and I'll let everyone know how that works out. I will repeat again, if you put a longshaft 5 speed in a 521 cab, you will have to remove/move the engine to get the transmission out if you have any problems with it. You also will have to make a new shifter hole as the 521 is made for a short shaft, and you might not be able to use the bench seat either, I do not know this for sure, you might be able to bend the shifter stick forward. There is a way to use a 1984 nissan short shaft 5 speed(2 wheel drive) out of a nap-z truck that will bolt to the diesel engine, it's a matter of changing the casings.

This is my 521 with a SD22/25 block in it, i'll try to get a better picture of the engine compartment later today. wayno

[wayno]

Here are the pictures of the fan clearance, the radiator is the stock J13 one that came with the truck, I cut the j13 radiator mount sheet metal out and mounted it in the holes that were for the future L16 blocks. wayno

[Roger]

Here's a SD22 on Craigslist. Because it has thewriingharness,it might have been removed to be transplanted into some conversion or some such. The price is right but the location.What do you think?

 

Date: 2010-07-11, 10:50AM EDT

Reply to: sale-xmhkq-1836954510@craigslist.org ^{[Errors when replying to ads?]}

 

I have a Nissan SD22 4 cyl diesel engine removed from a 1980's pickup. these are also used in International Scouts, boats stationary engines generators and some larger Nissan trucks. It is complete including alternator, starter and all engine mounted parts. It also has the wire harness, fusebox etc. I cannot verify if it runs. Local Delivery available, $300.00 OBO Dave 908-591-9892.

 

• Location: Kenilworth
• it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

[wayno]

Hi there Roger, that engine might make a good parts or backup engine, but you need the transmission also, It would be better if you could find a running one that drives, you need the front casing of the diesel tranny. to bad you don't live close to me, there are a couple running ones for under $700.00 When you find the vehicle you want, you want all the diesel electrical componets, they are the glow plug timer, a light comes on in the dash when you turn the key on, and goes out when it is time to start the engine, The DPC module, when you turn the key off the engine dies, and the engine controler, it is part of the dpc module system and turns the engine off, it is below the injection pump. If you have to push a button for 30 seconds and then start it, then the glow timer is gone or bad, and if you have to pull a choke cable of some kind to kill the engine then the DPC module and/or engine controler are bad or missing. These engines go forever, I had one I sold that had 350,000 on it and it did not use much oil, fact is, I towed everything home with it and it still got better than 22 MPG, towing another 4000 lb. truck. If you can get everything together I am sure you will be happy, unless you want power, they just do not have a lot of power. The engine that you have found has the important parts such as the starter, alternator, and the wiring harness, do not know if it has the DPC module and controler or glow timer, I have all these parts as extras, some I have found on ebay fully rebuilt at a reasonable price. Are you going to drop the diesel engine in a 521 frame or are you going to drop the cab(521) on a diesel frame? Do you want it to look stock with the box, or are you going to do flatbed? A flat bed allows you to use a kingcab frame, otherwise I think you will need a reg. cab reg. box. You will need to measure the latter to make sure it will fit, the same distance between front and back wheels within a couple of inches.

This is my 1971 datsun 521 workhorse, it is not a diesel, it is a one ton dually. It has a built L20B with dual SUs and it gets shit for mileage(maybe12mpg towing trailer) but it will tow the trailer 70 mph. I show this pic because you don't necessarly have to have the box, and it would open up the kingcab frames for you. wayno

[Roger]

Thanks! That's a nice flatbed. I think I'm going to go with the entire drive train from an 81 or 82 and use the 521 chassis. How much wider is the 720 diesel rear end than the 521 gas rear axel?

 

Does it need to be narrowed to look stock for a 521?

 

I'm taking my time looking for my 521 and will get the right one before I take the next step. A diesel 720 complete sounds like the best donar vehicle

[Cahoon520]

You don't have to swap the whole rear end you just have to swap the third member, you use the axles from the 521 and the third member from the the 720.

[wayno]

Hi there Roger, Cahoon520 is right, the 720 rear axle is 3 to 4 inches wider, :( but the 720 gears will drop into the 521 axle case. :) I do not know what the availabilaty of canadian trucks is in your area, but canada had the SD25 from 1983 to 1986 in some of there trucks, and they had 70hp :) verses the 61hp of the SD22, thats what I have in all my diesel trucks now, although I have a fresh rebuilt SD22 in my livingroom on an engine stand at this moment, it's soooo pretty.:D I know I have said this before, if you take the time to build/put together a shortshaft 5 speed, the shifter stick will come out the existing stock hole, the transmission will bolt to the existing stock transmission mount, I beleave the driveline will fit the transmission without modifacation, and you will be able to use your bench seat, it will look stock. :) wayno

[Roger]

Hello Wayno, I bet that you have a few wrenches and screw drivers in the silverware drawer, too:unsure::rolleyes::blink:.

 

That sounds like the set-up I need for the 521. Who would the engine fair with that trans and axle? Would fabricating mounts be rather straight forward? From what I've heard, this engine will fit easily in the compartment, and I'm guessing that it wont be too difficult to do.; I see the radiator fits too.

[wayno]

Hi Roger, I have never fabricated engine mounts for the diesel, I used the diesel frame and dropped the 521 cab on it, but I have only done one 521 diesel so far and as you can see it is a kingcab with a stepside box. I made the kingcab the length needed to mount the whole thing(cab&box) on a stock 720 kingcab diesel frame, I did a lot of measuring. "Who would the engine fair with that trans. and axle"??? I do not know what this sentance means from you last post. The kid and his father down the street put a SD22 diesel in his 521 frame, they got two sets of engine mounts(the steel part that bolts to the engine), they cut the bottom mount surface off of ones mounted to the engine, and they cut the top engine mount surface off of the ones mounted to the motor mounts(the rubber part that is mounted to the frame), and then they dropped the engine in the bay and let them overlap each other, when they like the way it looked, they spot welded them temporarly then pulled the whole thing out and welded them together good, they also had to fab. a mount for the rubber motor mount part to mount to the frame. In the long run, they ended up doing it the way I did it(used a diesel frame), but they used a longshaft 5 spd. transmission, and when it went bad, they had to pull the engine to get the tranny out. It is not that hard to lift a cab if you have the right equipment(engine hoist is what I use), I had to have a longer driveline made because I used a shortshaft 5 spd. transmission. The datsun 521 radiator I used was a early J13 block radiator because the outlets are in the right spots, but the upper hose is short, so far I have not had any problems, when you shut down the diesel engine, it tends to shake a lot. There are other guys that have done this conversion to, cahoon520 wedged one into a 520, Awesome job by the way!!! Have you gotten your radiator back yet? I used the stock 521 gauges for the engine sensers, they work fine. I just hijacked rogers thread. :rolleyes: wayno

[Cahoon520]

Hi Roger, I have never fabricated engine mounts for the diesel, I used the diesel frame and dropped the 521 cab on it, but I have only done one 521 diesel so far and as you can see it is a kingcab with a stepside box. I made the kingcab the length needed to mount the whole thing(cab&box) on a stock 720 kingcab diesel frame, I did a lot of measuring. "Who would the engine fair with that trans. and axle"??? I do not know what this sentance means from you last post. The kid and his father down the street put a SD22 diesel in his 521 frame, they got two sets of engine mounts(the steel part that bolts to the engine), they cut the bottom mount surface off of ones mounted to the engine, and they cut the top engine mount surface off of the ones mounted to the motor mounts(the rubber part that is mounted to the frame), and then they dropped the engine in the bay and let them overlap each other, when they like the way it looked, they spot welded them temporarly then pulled the whole thing out and welded them together good, they also had to fab. a mount for the rubber motor mount part to mount to the frame. In the long run, they ended up doing it the way I did it(used a diesel frame), but they used a longshaft 5 spd. transmission, and when it went bad, they had to pull the engine to get the tranny out. It is not that hard to lift a cab if you have the right equipment(engine hoist is what I use), I had to have a longer driveline made because I used a shortshaft 5 spd. transmission. The datsun 521 radiator I used was a early J13 block radiator because the outlets are in the right spots, but the upper hose is short, so far I have not had any problems, when you shut down the diesel engine, it tends to shake a lot. There are other guys that have done this conversion to, cahoon520 wedged one into a 520, Awesome job by the way!!! Have you gotten your radiator back yet? I used the stock 521 gauges for the engine sensers, they work fine. I just hijacked rogers thread. :rolleyes: wayno

Hey, Wayno Thanks! They were just starting to build the rad on Tuesday it took awhile to get the core in, it should be done by Friday. I used the motor mounts off the sd22 I just cut the 520 frame mount and plated them off with 3/8 plate and welded studs so the sd mounts would just bolt on.

 

 

[Roger]

Well there you go...

[Roger]

Ok, so I'm looking for a short bed '81 or 82 diesel, right?

 

This 720 rear that I swap guts into the 520 rear, whats the process for this? I don't think I need to be a rear end expert to do it. I wont be making any detailed adjustments of themeshing of thegears, right? Just a swap? I guess I will need to remove the axles on each side. Take the rear end cover plate off. Take the U-joint mount( my description :>) ) off. Remove the guts. While I'm at it replace the inner and outter wheel bearings on each side. If I want rear disk brakes is now the time to do this?

 

I also need the 720 radiator?

[Cahoon520]

Ok, so I'm looking for a short bed '81 or 82 diesel, right?

 

This 720 rear that I swap guts into the 520 rear, whats the process for this? I don't think I need to be a rear end expert to do it. I wont be making any detailed adjustments of themeshing of thegears, right? Just a swap? I guess I will need to remove the axles on each side. Take the rear end cover plate off. Take the U-joint mount( my description :>) ) off. Remove the guts. While I'm at it replace the inner and outter wheel bearings on each side. If I want rear disk brakes is now the time to do this?

 

I also need the 720 radiator?

 

1. drain the fluid

2. disconnect the brake line and park brake cables

3. unbolt the axles and pull out the axles

4. unbolt the driveshaft

5. unbolt the third member

6. swap the third members

7. change the axle seals

8. reassemble

[wayno]

Hi there Roger, If your going to swap the diesel drive train into the 521 frame then it doesn't matter if it is a kingcab or a regular cab, just find a running diesel truck, It will not matter how ugly it is, all you want is a good complete drivetrain, it doesn't even need a wiring harness if cahoon520 will help you, seems he has figured that part of it out, I am not good at the wiring part, I can swap the wiring harness into a 521 no problem, I just start swapping the main parts in also, like the tilt steering column, all the wiring is in it, put it in and plug it in(simple). The heater system is a stand alone system, just give it a hot wire from the fuse block. The DPC module has a lot of wires going everywhere, even to the glow plug timer, as well as the engine controller, to complicated for me. If you use the diesel wiring harness, I did figure out how to wire the wiper motor so it has all modes(intermiant, reg, and fast speeds) and the dash also, but that took me several days and not all the things work as I want, I have no dash light dimmer adjustment. John, do the early 520s have the big axles(rear) as the 521s have? I know they have the 488 gears like the 320s have, but the 320s have these smaller axles that I had to switch out the spider gears to put 437 gears in the 320 axle. Roger, I am using a stock J13(early 521 engine, pre L block) radiator and it cools the SD engine I have just fine, I even bolted it in the stock position(L block holes), but I had to trim the stock cooling fan blades about an inch to clear the hoses. I built a jig to trim the fan evenly on a band saw so it would be as balanced as I could get it.

As you can see, you can take a ugly truck and turn it into something nice.

[Roger]

That's some grill on that blue Datsun. You still got it?

[wayno]

I think it is around here somewhere, that grill leaves an impression on everyone. wayno