Painting/priming

[Stupid_fast]

Hello, I'm sanding the paint off my fender to paint it and theres lots of small rust spots. If I just sand the majority of the rust off of it, is it OK to paint over the rest, or is there a good reason not do do that? The paint is rattle-can rustoleum primer.

 

They are only very small black-ish spots at this point. Also for the inside of it I'm going to get undercoating for and was wondering the same thing for that.

 

 

Can get pics when I get home.

[Laecaon]

I would sand a good inch or two around each rust spot to bare metal.

[Stupid_fast]

I've done more since this pic, but here is what i'm doing.

 

The rust spots I'm talking about are about 5-10mm big, and take a long time to sand out.

[Laecaon]

That looks alot like my car used to! Well definitely get out as much as possible unless it goes all the way through then it might be worth keeping the rust for awhile... I would put some sort of rust inhibitor to stop the rust, then prime, but thats just me.

[Stupid_fast]

That looks alot like my car used to! Well definitely get out as much as possible unless it goes all the way through then it might be worth keeping the rust for awhile... I would put some sort of rust inhibitor to stop the rust, then prime, but thats just me.

 

Rust inhibitor? Please explain. :P

 

 

Will do, thanks.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Get some Phosphoric acid etch/prep. You can get the stuff at most any hardware store for around $15 a gallon. This stuff does 2 things, neutralizes rust (really just slows it down alot, you never get rid of it unless you cut that stuff out) and etches the metal so paint will stick better. I use POR-15 Marine Clean for all degreasing/final cleaning before painting, stuff works great! I'm sure there are other products out there that work just as well, but it's what I've had good luck with. There's really no short cuts on body work if you want it to look good, you gotta put in the time. Are you on a tight budget? If so rustoleum is an option, POR-15 or other rust encapsulating paints are ideal (there are many that do the same thing). Once you got that rust encapsulator on, you can lay your filler right on top of it while it's just barely tacky. Fillers have etching agents in them that will bond to the paint/primer, and you still have your metal treated/sealed underneath. If you go the POR route or use a similar product, a tie coat primer will be needed to bond your top coat. Tie coats are nice too because alot of them are high build. Gives you a chance to tune the panels right before paint.

[INDY510]

The rust spots I'm talking about are about 5-10mm big

 

If you can't get to clean bare metal........... it will just rust under the paint...... ... and then crack your paint or bondo

 

 

Are you trying for perfect paint?........ or just a rattle can job? .............. either way..... prep work is everything,,,, and starting with bare metal will insure a long lasting paint job........ where painting over those rust spots will only last a few months...

 

 

Rust inhibitors are okay.......... but the metal will continue to rot until you grind/cut out all the rust

 

 

You can find this at any Hardware store:

 

 

[Guest DatsuNoob]

"that is what I just said..."

[skunk]

dont lisson to that ass hat datsunoob, this is what you want to do. Get some Phosphoric acid etch/prep. You can get the stuff at most any hardware store for around $15 a gallon. This stuff does 2 things, neutralizes rust (really just slows it down alot, you never get rid of it unless you cut that stuff out) and etches the metal so paint will stick better. I use POR-15 Marine Clean for all degreasing/final cleaning before painting, stuff works great! I'm sure there are other products out there that work just as well, but it's what I've had good luck with. There's really no short cuts on body work if you want it to look good, you gotta put in the time. Are you on a tight budget? If so rustoleum is an option, POR-15 or other rust encapsulating paints are ideal (there are many that do the same thing). Once you got that rust encapsulator on, you can lay your filler right on top of it while it's just barely tacky. Fillers have etching agents in them that will bond to the paint/primer, and you still have your metal treated/sealed underneath. If you go the POR route or use a similar product, a tie coat primer will be needed to bond your top coat. Tie coats are nice too because alot of them are high build. Gives you a chance to tune the panels right before paint.

:lol:

[INDY510]

That's kinda what I was trying to say,,, , except I think the best thing you could do is get some Phosphoric acid etch/prep. You can get the stuff at most any hardware store for around $15 a gallon. This stuff does 2 things, neutralizes rust (really just slows it down alot, you never get rid of it unless you cut that stuff out) and etches the metal so paint will stick better. I use POR-15 Marine Clean for all degreasing/final cleaning before painting, stuff works great! I'm sure there are other products out there that work just as well, but it's what I've had good luck with. There's really no short cuts on body work if you want it to look good, you gotta put in the time. Are you on a tight budget? If so rustoleum is an option, POR-15 or other rust encapsulating paints are ideal (there are many that do the same thing). Once you got that rust encapsulator on, you can lay your filler right on top of it while it's just barely tacky. Fillers have etching agents in them that will bond to the paint/primer, and you still have your metal treated/sealed underneath. If you go the POR route or use a similar product, a tie coat primer will be needed to bond your top coat. Tie coats are nice too because alot of them are high build. Gives you a chance to tune the panels right before paint

[Stupid_fast]

Are you sure? I was going to get some Phosphoric acid etch/prep. You can get the stuff at most any hardware store for around $15 a gallon. This stuff does 2 things, neutralizes rust (really just slows it down alot, you never get rid of it unless you cut that stuff out) and etches the metal so paint will stick better. I use POR-15 Marine Clean for all degreasing/final cleaning before painting, stuff works great! I'm sure there are other products out there that work just as well, but it's what I've had good luck with. There's really no short cuts on body work if you want it to look good, you gotta put in the time. Are you on a tight budget? If so rustoleum is an option, POR-15 or other rust encapsulating paints are ideal (there are many that do the same thing). Once you got that rust encapsulator on, you can lay your filler right on top of it while it's just barely tacky. Fillers have etching agents in them that will bond to the paint/primer, and you still have your metal treated/sealed underneath. If you go the POR route or use a similar product, a tie coat primer will be needed to bond your top coat. Tie coats are nice too because alot of them are high build. Gives you a chance to tune the panels right before paint.  <img src="http://community.ratsun.net/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif" alt=":D" class="bbc_emoticon">

[Stupid_fast]

Damnit, it double posted.

[hang_510]

this has been said like 5 times... :rolleyes:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/23351-paintingpriming/page__pid__330531#entry330531

[Guest DatsuNoob]

I hate all of you :mellow:

[Stupid_fast]

Lol, its just a joke. Thanks for the help.:P

 

Edit, Also are there any bad brands of filler that I should watch out for?

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Yeah, Bondo. Dont get that shit anywhere near a Datsun. Good enough for a Honda though. UPOL is good shit Everyone knows how much I loave UPOL products Ho-Ray!

 

[Laecaon]

Its body filler? Yea it sucks to have bondo on a car, but its better than having non smooth panels. I dont mean to fill in massive crumples, but to use after messaging the panel into the best shape you can get it to, then bondo it.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

NO! I was talking brands. Bondo brand filler is :poop:, get some quality filler from an auto body supply shop.

[INDY510]

You should try UPOL instead of Bondo....

 

 

Shit sticks like no other........... they used that shit to paint tuna cans in the 60's... .. .. .... fuckers still aint rusting

[Guest DatsuNoob]

True story

[Stupid_fast]

I finally got around to uploading a picture.

 

This is the rust I was talking about.

 

Should I try to sand it down more? I guess just as much as I can?

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Go get the acid! You mix it up a little strong and that shiz scrubs right off after letting it soak in for a while. 15 bones! DO IT

 

[Stupid_fast]

Go get the acid! You mix it up a little strong and that shiz scrubs right off after letting it soak in for a while. 15 bones! DO IT

 

 

OH I think I have some of that stuff around here somewhere...

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Get after it! You only have one panel to do, I have about 8. Stuff works well, and doesnt cost much.

[Stupid_fast]

Get after it! You only have one panel to do, I have about 8. Stuff works well, and doesnt cost much.

 

...My hood is red.

 

But yes, I have been working on it...

 

Hope to finish the sanding today. Then start on the rust removal, then onto buying some body filler.