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Painting/priming


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So since the toyota repair is finished I wanted to continue on this.

 

I cannot find any of that ospho stuff in ANY hardware store here in oakland, same goes for UPOL. All the body filler here is bondo, no matter what store. :(

 

Ordering online, less anyone has a suggestion?

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Guest DatsuNoob

Dude... forget the ospho. That shit stays on, you want something that'll wash off, I already told you what you should get. This shit

IMG_3625.jpg You can get it at ANY home depot for around $15.

I had some of this stuff left over from a POR-15 project, and it works great for surface prep before you start your filler and paint

GEDC0595.jpg

As for your filler, if you go to any hardware/retail store, it will always be bondo brand filler. You have to find a good local auto body supply shop or order your filler from ebay/online whatever. I only suggest UPOL products because it's what I've had good luck with, I'm sure there are other products that are just as good.

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Guest DatsuNoob

That marine clean is good shit too BTW. Once you start scrubbing on it with a scotchbrite pad it lathers up red with rust, then you just rinse it off and dry. The hotter your water is the better it works. I advise picking up some nitriles or latex gloves too. That acid sucks any moisture right outta your hands, makes em crack and stuff, and kinda burns. Tack cloths will be good to use to remove any dust too after you sand that filler and get ready to lay your primer

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I found the prep&etch stuff!! :) No luck on the POR15 stuff though.

 

On the way back I spotted about 5 american restored muscle cars, about 10 corvettes, Porsches, a Ferrari F430 spider, and two Aston martin DB9 convertables(both silver!).... WTF!

 

I also drove about 65 miles because I got a little lost coming home through backroads. :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

im using a marine rust neutralizer and etch prep the neutralizer is a base paint epoxy base it coats really thick but is gauranteed and almost 10 bucks a qt cheaper than por 15. used rustoleum rusty metal primer on most of the body and im using an oil based body filler primer as my tie coat all in all with my bondo brand filler (that works great if you follow the instructions ) i think ive spent 250 bucks take your time stripping you'll find if you sand the rust down and dont use ospho (it leaves residue) just block sand it well you have to do very little my 620 the fenders were rotted out and the bed is pretty dinged and door panel I had to weld back together. The body is very straight and required nothing more than prep and primer. Rust sux

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I got the por15 body filler finally. The fender is almost rust free using the jelly stuff. I found out that prep&etch stuff leaves a residue after I put it on the whole outside of the fender... sigh.

 

Finally kicking myself enough to wake up and do some work on the car!!

 

Thanks for the tips.

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Guest DatsuNoob

fuckin fuck! (facepalm) that's what the hell the metal ready was for. It removes everything after the metal has been etched. Dont take this the wrong way, but are you retarded? Clearly you havent read anything people have said, so why have you bothered to post a thread asking for help? I posted pics and everything just to make sure you got it okay. I'm done suggesting/helping here. I'm frustrated as hell.

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fuckin fuck! (facepalm) that's what the hell the metal ready was for. It removes everything after the metal has been etched. Dont take this the wrong way, but are you retarded? Clearly you havent read anything people have said, so why have you bothered to post a thread asking for help? I posted pics and everything just to make sure you got it okay. I'm done suggesting/helping here. I'm frustrated as hell.

 

I'm sorry, I'm a dumbass, and usually half-awake while reading these forums in the morning. I'll fix it. Sorry to frustrate you, lol!

 

And BTW by residue I mean I read the wrong set of instructions and didn't dilute it, so it turned the surface of the fender in to a rainbow.... :S

 

I seem to word things very badly...

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