christopher0227 Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 so i got this 73 620 about 4 months ago had to fix last guys mistakes but now its running good and all but its overheating i checked thermostat its good i bought a new radiator cap its good also got a different water pump now the only thing i can think of is the radiator itself also it has after market temp guage its the sunpro guage it has 100,160,190,210,230,250 degrees does anyone have the same one or something similar where should the temp sit also it has the l20b engine i would post a pic but im new to the site and dont know how Quote Link to comment
Javin Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/691-how-to-post-pictures-and-keep-online-photo-albums/ There is your link for how to post pictures. As for the over heating thing I am not sure. My overheating had to do with me sitting idle and my fan having issues along with the lack of fan shroud. Does your over heat while moving or when sitting still? Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Have you flushed the cooling system yet? Also, what kind of advance are you running at? Are you running lean? A dirty cooling system, too much advance, and a lean running engine will all make you run hotter than normal. What is wrong with the factory temp gauge? Also, 73 620's came with an L16 stock. I don't think it matters, but if you have a radiator designed for an L16, an L20b IS 25% more displacement, which means it's going to be required to dissipate more heat. Quote Link to comment
christopher0227 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 http://community.rat...e-photo-albums/ There is your link for how to post pictures. As for the over heating thing I am not sure. My overheating had to do with me sitting idle and my fan having issues along with the lack of fan shroud. Does your over heat while moving or when sitting still? it overheats while sitting still after about 10 to 15 mins Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 it overheats while sitting still after about 10 to 15 mins Does it have a fan shroud? That can affect the idling temp. Quote Link to comment
Javin Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Same thing mine did. (slow moving traffic killed me...). If you start moving again does the temp go down? Quote Link to comment
christopher0227 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Have you flushed the cooling system yet? Also, what kind of advance are you running at? Are you running lean? A dirty cooling system, too much advance, and a lean running engine will all make you run hotter than normal. What is wrong with the factory temp gauge? Also, 73 620's came with an L16 stock. I don't think it matters, but if you have a radiator designed for an L16, an L20b IS 25% more displacement, which means it's going to be required to dissipate more heat. not i havent flushed the cooling yet and dont know if im running lean i dont know why he put the aftermarket guage in how would i go about flushing the system Quote Link to comment
christopher0227 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Does it have a fan shroud? That can affect the idling temp. no it doesnt have a shroud and it also has an electric fan Quote Link to comment
christopher0227 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Same thing mine did. (slow moving traffic killed me...). If you start moving again does the temp go down? i havent had a chance to drive it yet because i had to fix all his mistakes and i also have a 240sx so i didnt want to drive the truck if it was overheating Quote Link to comment
Javin Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 i havent had a chance to drive it yet because i had to fix all his mistakes and i also have a 240sx so i didnt want to drive the truck if it was overheating Gotcha. I was just trying to figure out if it was an airflow problem. Beyond that I am useless. Quote Link to comment
christopher0227 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Gotcha. I was just trying to figure out if it was an airflow problem. Beyond that I am useless. thanks for the help sir gave me more ideas Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Flushing the system is easy. If you want to do it right, there's a kit that you can buy that T's into the line that goes to your heater core. You can buy the kit at a Napa, and it should have instructions with it. Basically you drain the system(while cold, of course), and fill it with a cooling system cleaner(comes with kit). Run it for like, 15min at idle, then drain it out. Let it cool back down, then fill it with water and run the engine with the hose attached to your "T" in the coolant line. With the radiator cap off, and the radiator drain fully open, run the engine with the hose turned on. It's important to keep the engine running so that you circulate the water, and it's important to keep the water on, so that you don't run out of cooling medium. I usually let it run for about 15min; at that point the water coming out should be clear. Shut the water off and THEN shut the engine off and let all the water drain out. Replace the drain plugs, and cap off the "T". With ALL water drained out, let the engine cool, then add 50/50 distilled water and coolant. Run and bleed out all air. It's easier than it sounds, but it does give you a water park in your driveway, so be warned. Quote Link to comment
christopher0227 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 thank you also if the heater core is bad would this affect it Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 thank you also if the heater core is bad would this affect it Bad.. leaking? If it's leaking, just take it out of the equation by looping the lines that go to it together. Where they join, you can put the "T" in, without having to cut hoses. If it's just flat out plugged, then this can help unplug it. Quote Link to comment
Javin Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 thank you also if the heater core is bad would this affect it lol I wouldnt know that, I bypassed my heater core cause it was leaking. I would assume If the heater core is blocking fluid flow then it wouldnt complete the path. Quote Link to comment
christopher0227 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Bad.. leaking? If it's leaking, just take it out of the equation by looping the lines that go to it together. Where they join, you can put the "T" in, without having to cut hoses. If it's just flat out plugged, then this can help unplug it. where is the heater core on the 620 im not fimilliar with the older cars Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 where should the temp sit actual temp should be near what the thermostat is rated, usually 180* look in the rad and see if there is any calcifaction along/across the cooling tubes. you may need to have cleaned, AFTER flushing the entire system first, this includes the heater core, if it doesnt leak. Quote Link to comment
Javin Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 under your dash. this is mine opened out of my truck. In the truck left side of this pic it is the black thing. The red is my hose leading to(from?) the engine Quote Link to comment
christopher0227 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 under your dash. this is mine opened out of my truck. In the truck left side of this pic it is the black thing. The red is my hose leading to(from?) the engine thats what i thought that was ill check on my next day off keep you guys posted thanks for the help Quote Link to comment
christopher0227 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 where could i buy a new one from napa or autozone ?and how much would it cost if anyone knows Quote Link to comment
Javin Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 A new??? Heater core? Not sure. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 also got a different water pump I told ya another pump wasnt going to work. as for the heater core. it helps cool the motor if the valve is open but if you close the valve the truck really should not overheat in normal washington temps(maybe on 93 deg days even mine get near HOT!!!!) you need to make sure your rad is clean and see if its flow tested. I personally dont fuck around and would get a new rad if your looks like a rusty pc of shit.Or have it roded out. also ck the lower hose and make sure its not soft and collapseing. if so replace it. if now your sure you have no leaks(heatervalve closed) see if your still using water. Its dissappearing. maybe a slight water vapor at the exhaust?????? then I say head gasket. if your looking for a cheap fix closes advice I can give is a 160deg stat with maybe a 1/8 hole drilled on the top if this overheats up from a dead cold motor in 15mins it has to be the rad or a headgasket Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Junkyard radiator is probably cheaper than one of those 160/deg thermostats. Aren't those thermostats $60-$80? Ridiculous. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 160 54mm is the generic size as datsun dont list a 160 on most parts books that I see.STANT makes them less than 10$ Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 i just remove the little floating brass plug to ensure some floow STANT makes them less than 10$ $4.99 at the 3 local parts houses... Quote Link to comment
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