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NAPS-Z motor mounts?


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ok, so when I swapped my z20s into my 72 datsun 510, I got the motor mounts from the 1980 510 to fit. they work, but the engine isnt perfectly level, and one of the motor mounts has alot of stress on the rubber part. The question I have, is there a better motor mount from a different year of car that will fit better?

 

If not, and I end up making my own motor mount, what is usually used as motor mount material? neoprene? does anyone sell a block of material?

 

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

 

EDIT: this is way off topic, but when going from a 4 to a 8 plug distributor, do people just jumper the wires from the stock located coil to the new secondary coil?

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You can jumper the wires, but you should ensure that you aren't running too much current. The stock NAPS-Z system used separate circuits, on different fuses, to run each coil.

 

The better way would be to run a relay for them, to avoid overloading the stock ignition circuit.

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Leave the rubber mount and get or make a suitable metal mount that bolts to the rubber and the block without stressing it.

 

 

On the trucks the intake plugs are powered directly from the ignition key from a fusible link. The exhaust through the fuse box. Strange set up.

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I am not a hundred percent sure, but i know the people who do franken L/Z motors deal with this. Don't the stock L series block to rubber motor mounts work?

 

I did a swap from a 1978 510 L20 into a 72 510, and I had to get a new oil pan/pick up motor mounts and a dip tube. Make sure your oil pan isn't hitting anything and use the stock mounts, the more I think about it if you have 80's 510 mounts on it already then the stock ones should bolt on.

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I already had to reverse my crossmember to accommodate the oil pan. I don't have mounts for a stock L-series motor.

 

I will most likely do what mike suggested and build a plate for the drivers side motor mount to help the motor sit more level.

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