laotsu Posted June 29, 2010 Report Share Posted June 29, 2010 so I just bought a carb from Carlos. It's a water temp choke though and I am unsure how to hook it up. any hints? also HOW THE FUCK do i get my drums off this truck sat for a year and i theink the drums are rusted to the hubs... I have backed the adjusters off all the way and used enough penetrating oil to compete with BP in the gulf of mexico crisis. I think the front hubs have to come off befor the drums will right, but I cant get the rears off either. I have dual points on my distributor and got em at the local part store, however, I can only get the "front" condenser and I dont even know how to tell between front and back point. I know the andvanced and retarded points so I guess the "front" points are the retarded set? more questions to follow when i get my hands on a peanut head and start rebuilding the steering. this is all on a '71 PL521 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 29, 2010 Report Share Posted June 29, 2010 Carb- Just tap into your water lines somewhere ;) When the coolant is cold, the choke is closed. When it's warm the choke opens. Drums- Go to a parts store and get a brake drum puller. They get really tough when they've been on for a while. Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted June 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2010 yeah i got the biggest puller I could and it is too beefy to fit between the backer plate (cant remember right name) and the drum. gonna fabricate some little brackets to pull with. kinda like tire levers on a bicycle. Quote Link to comment
Jersey Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 When you are looking at the brake drums there are two threaded holes on either side of the hub hole find two bolts that fit and thread them in equally and this will back the drums off. Quote Link to comment
pharouh Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 Oh yeah, rear brake drums. I feel your pain bro. Penetrating oil is a good start. heat is another asset.I used a heat gun,but a small torch would be better. Keep your lug nuts on and get a good sized hammer. 5 lbs or so. Hit it around the edges of the drum,above the studs,below the studs,and keep at it. Mine didn't have the 2 bolt holes. Does it turn? Good luck! Quote Link to comment
green lantern Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 anybody got a picture of this water carb hookup???? never had any experiance with that... Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted June 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 Does it turn? Good luck! yeah my truck is a daily driver just a little scarey to stop and such Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 So now that i have this thig in hand I realiz i dont know where the water lines hook in i see one on the manifold but shouldnt there be a couple to the choke? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Sell that weber. that a VW or a Renualt carb set up fuck the water lines. Get a cheap carb conversion choke puller. Its a cap with a wire that will pull the plate open. Most have 2 size caps that will replave the water outlet(pull it off) persaonally I wounld enver run this carb as its a backward set up. The main barrel is on the outseide where the 2nd barrel would use. The mainfold hole are oppisite. Datsunnoob had one of these hooked up and the barrel got jammed open on the manifold. blew up or soemthing. get a 32/36 DGV 5 A its the cheapest version of the DGV series and manual choke. and the correct pull cable set up. for the brakes drum 521 will not have those jacking hiles unless the drum cam with them. On 510s they have them and most are pulled out threads due to rust. Get a big heat torch and bang on it and it will come offthe bigger condensor is the main point set. the small is the 2nd set. personally I would just pull the wire to the 2nd set and run the main set only. if you need to get the condensor off to swap it out. remove the 10mm head bolt holding the dizzy to the timming plate and pull the dizzy out then get the condensor. If a condesor is bad it will start popping above idle.another thing dont be swapping out coils or ballast resisitors. If they are good just leave them alone and dont be buying fancy shit unless you know what your doing Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Yeah i have seen overwhelmingly that a DGV is the best choice but that's not what I have and I kinda want to try the water carb (learning how to do shit is kinda fun) I dont have any water hookups on the carb itself just a single nipple on the manifold. from what i see online the should be a housing over the auto choke that I can run hoses through. is this something I am missing or just a different setup. Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 the white plastic piece is the choke right? It should have water hoses running to it right? I also noticed a crack between the two chambers just in the Phenolic spacer this shouldnt be a nissue right? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 I know this is what you have(cause maybe you got it free). But Im telling ya just get a 32/36 that is set up for the correct cable pull. Ask Datsunnoob after he had the inconvinence of his truck being towed home. But I have a feeling your gonna do what your gonna do. The $8-10 choke conversion from Napa will be the Ezist to do. Unless you tell me where you going to splice a water port to and from(return line) thats not going to involve mutiple fittings that look like shit in a already clean nice system. My last recommendation is find a cheap 32/36 stardard type DGV. People should just AVOID the DGFVs Quote Link to comment
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