MODALsoul Posted May 29, 2010 Report Share Posted May 29, 2010 are the ball joints on my 210 sealed or standard? and how much does it usually cost for the parts + labor, i don't think i can do this myself Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 29, 2010 Report Share Posted May 29, 2010 My info shows a removable plug. I think you put in a grease nipple fill with grease and put the plug back in.About $50 ea at the dealer so like much less elsewhere. If doing one might as well do both if yo have the tools out and the suspension apart. You would need to disconnect the sway bar to allow the LCA to move freely. Likely the tension rod shares some of the ball joint bolts so it will be disconnected too. The knuckle arm has to be separated from the bottom of the strut (two bolts) to expose the nut an cotter pin holding it to the ball joint. The ball joint can now be split away from the knuckle arm with a ball joint separater (pickle fork) and unbolted from the LCA and replaced. Quote Link to comment
skunk Posted May 29, 2010 Report Share Posted May 29, 2010 i got a set of upper and lower ball joints shipped for like $80 on ebay, It was way easyer then i thought it would be. i never when anywhere and asked on prices, but i also need to change my tie rods, parts will cost me under $100, and i did go ask around town on what price would be to let some one eles do it. $600 was the cheapist i got. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted May 29, 2010 Report Share Posted May 29, 2010 RockAuto has one for $10. It's a closeout, and only 7 remain so I'd hurry up and order one from them if I was you ;) It's a BECK/ARNLEY and they make decent parts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 29, 2010 Report Share Posted May 29, 2010 Totally do able with average tools. I got a pickle fork from a pawn shop for $5 but you can rent them cheap. You will have to wrestle with the strut/lower control arm to get apart and together. Maybe pry with 2x4. Leave the steering ball joint alone and clean with pressure washer and wire brush before starting. Quote Link to comment
MODALsoul Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 k... well it sounds like a plan, thanks a lot you guys :D i'll get a hold of the supplies and let you know how it turns out :blink: Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 Click thud screech? Are you sure it's the ball joints? Sounds like a lack of lubrication in the A arm grease nipples. Pound some lube into them before you go changing the ball joints. If it has been a while since these were lubricated you may need one of the devices that you preload with grease and then place on the zerk and pound the crap out of the "piston" with a small sledge hammer. Guaranteed to force dried out grease out and fill with the good stuff. Quote Link to comment
MODALsoul Posted June 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2010 Click thud screech? Are you sure it's the ball joints? Sounds like a lack of lubrication in the A arm grease nipples. Pound some lube into them before you go changing the ball joints. If it has been a while since these were lubricated you may need one of the devices that you preload with grease and then place on the zerk and pound the crap out of the "piston" with a small sledge hammer. Guaranteed to force dried out grease out and fill with the good stuff. i'm pretty sure it's those. there's not really a thud or screech, just kinda sounded like a cool name for the post. every time i turn they click and if i hit a bump i can feel some misplacement in the alignment for a short second i'm gonna have to lube the arms too anyways. my car basically sat in an old man's garage for most of its life and there's probably a bunch of dried up grease everywhere... everywhere Quote Link to comment
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