motavated Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Is it over charging or something? The crg light flickers around 2.5 rpms and goes full on around 4k... I will take the alt off for checking. But just trying to figure out more ideas and other possibilities. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Mine did that on a sentra i had. i think the voltage regulator went out. the light would go on if i was revved up and turned off if i turned on the heater/lights/radio/brakes blah blah... Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted May 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Damn... That 620 regulator is not cheap... Edit: I looked on ebay and there are for 20$. That is not that bad... I bough mine for 57$ from kragen or someshit..... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 A volt meter is cheap. get one you put in the cig lighter. use it then you can give better info. by the tme the light comes on its already to late. Most times if one has a in car volt meter or just one of those cheezy cig lighter plug in meters you can detect a proplem before the light comes on. If you have high voltage say over 14volts, with wipers and heater ON and its a stock alternator then you VR is bad. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 sounds like the alt is going bad. brushes and worn shaft. blew the the fusible links while (the ex was) driving :angry: Damn... That 620 regulator is not cheap... I bough mine for 57$ from kragen or someshit..... reg or alt? swap to an internal regulated. should be able to do something under the lifetime warranty. ive upgraded and paid the differeance before. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted May 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 sounds like the alt is going bad. brushes and worn shaft. blew the the fusible links while (the ex was) driving :angry: reg or alt? swap to an internal regulated. should be able to do something under the lifetime warranty. ive upgraded and paid the differeance before. Good idea man. But I am seriously thinking its the fan belt now. The belt seems to be to big and is hitting the idler arm or some shit or the pitman... It was only 7 buxs for a belt one size smaller. Plus I have to take the alt off for checking anyways... Might as well be on the safe side and do it. Will post what i find tomorrow. Gotta go and work soon... Thanks! Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Plus I have to take the alt off for checking anyways... the load test passed on mine. a few months later the shaft wobbled sufficiently that it shorted out. double check it when its in your hands Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted May 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 A volt meter is cheap. get one you put in the cig lighter. use it then you can give better info. by the tme the light comes on its already to late. Most times if one has a in car volt meter or just one of those cheezy cig lighter plug in meters you can detect a proplem before the light comes on. If you have high voltage say over 14volts, with wipers and heater ON and its a stock alternator then you VR is bad. I actually have a volt meter guage but I don't have it hooked up... LOL! I got lazy and used it just for show. Can I splice it with the lighter wires? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Yes, you can use the lighter wires, but IIRC the lighter is always hot, so the voltmeter would be a constant drain. That might not be too horrid, as several late 70s/early 80s Datsuns had always-on stock voltmeters, but it can run the battery down hard (and destroy it). Me, I hook it up to the IGN side, so it's only on when the ignition is on. Now, as for the light, there's really only one of 2 things happeneing: 1) It's overcharging at high RPMs. That'd be either the regulator of the rectifier (rectifier is always in the alternator) 2) It's undercharging at high RPMs. That can also be the regulator, but more likely it's "Brush Float", which is either worn brushes not making connection to the commutator, or because the bearings are shot in the alternator (causing the same thing). A voltmeter will tell you which it is. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted May 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 Well the alt checked out bad. I went back to the mom and pop store and they told me the place that rebuilt it went out of business. But that they will still do it? Sounds fishy... I will send it to be checked again at the autozone when I get it back to be sure... Quote Link to comment
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