Alice the Goon's restoration

[AZhitman]

I'll be documenting a full-scale build thread for my site, but I wanted to at least shaer my progress with the Ratsun brethren.

 

Alice (our 67 WRL411) just came back from getting her body and paint redone. Kept the OEM red color, with a twist: I had the roof painted white. Looks great, and I can't wait to install her roof rack, lights, grille, trim, etc.

 

Everything's getting restored or refurbished before it gets reinstalled.

 

Interior was pretty pristine (I posted up a ton of pics of the cleanup / sound deadening interior restoration process). Still need to have the front seats repaired, upholstery is split on the seam on both front buckets.

 

Engine (R16) is out in Riverside getting the stroker treatment (U20 crank, .040-over pistons, some head work). Should be a screamer, but look 100% OEM.

 

Trans is going to a local shop for cleaning and adjustments - The old B-W 3-speeds are allegedly pretty tough, so I'm hoping it's all intact.

 

Yesterday I disassembled the entire front suspension. Everything's packaged in bags, labeled, and put in boxes so I can bead blast and powdercoat it all over the next few weekends. New tie rods and ends are on order, new OEM calipers are awaiting installation, as well as new brake lines, ball joints and bushings.

 

Steering was really sloppy, but it feels like the slop is in the box - Anyone have some advice for "snugging up" the steering?

 

Next up will be detailing the engine bay (my favorite part). Everything's getting removed, bead or soda-blasted, refinished and replaced. Hope to have that done before the motor's finished.

 

Feedback, suggestions and critique are always welcomed. The goal is to have her fniished in time for JCCS. Last year there were no 411's there, so I'd like her to be worthy of some attention this year.

 

Thanks to you guys for keeping me motivated! :)

[sssr20det510]

pics??? you should be able to tighten the slop in the box, there should be a nut on the box loosen it and use a flat head screw driver to tighten the screw inside the nut. make sure you dont over tighten it will make steering stiff if its too tight.

[AZhitman]

pics???

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/12332-project-wpl411

 

you should be able to tighten the slop in the box, there should be a nut on the box loosen it and use a flat head screw driver to tighten the screw inside the nut. make sure you dont over tighten it will make steering stiff if its too tight.

 

Thank you!!!

[datzenmike]

If, there is gear wear in the box it will occur mostly in the middle and just to right and left of center where all the steering is done. If you adjust the gears closer in this area to remove 'slop' you may very well removing all the clearance in the areas closer to the full lock left and right sides. This will give a good feel in the middle but on a tight turn it can bind or seize and there could be difficulty with wheel return after the turn.

 

Raise both wheels off the ground and make the adjustment. Spin the wheel lock to lock several times looking for any tightness. If you can't adjust most the the looseness out, the box will need replacing.

 

It must be understood the even the slightest slack in any of the other steering components will make this hard to troubleshoot and even a waste of time. The 620 steering box has a ratio of 19:1 so if all the ball joints on the tie rods, cross link and idler arm have a combined looseness of only 1/8" this will translate to over 2 1/3" of steering wheel play!

[JDM510]

lol my dattos name is alice too... shes named after the late original owner.. God bless her soul.

[AZhitman]

If, there is gear wear in the box it will occur mostly in the middle and just to right and left of center where all the steering is done. If you adjust the gears closer in this area to remove 'slop' you may very well removing all the clearance in the areas closer to the full lock left and right sides. This will give a good feel in the middle but on a tight turn it can bind or seize and there could be difficulty with wheel return after the turn.

 

Raise both wheels off the ground and make the adjustment. Spin the wheel lock to lock several times looking for any tightness. If you can't adjust most the the looseness out, the box will need replacing.

 

It must be understood the even the slightest slack in any of the other steering components will make this hard to troubleshoot and even a waste of time. The 620 steering box has a ratio of 19:1 so if all the ball joints on the tie rods, cross link and idler arm have a combined looseness of only 1/8" this will translate to over 2 1/3" of steering wheel play!

 

Thanks Mike - I will see how it feels after the tie rods and rod ends are all replaced. Hopefully, that will address the problem entirely.